From Wednesday, July 8th to Tuesday, July 21st, the "Deep World of Independent Watchmakers and Small Maisons" exhibition will be held on the 5th floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku. Last time, we explored why watches where the face of the maker is visible are attracting enthusiasts around the world.

So, when you see a watch made by an independent watchmaker, what should you focus on to appreciate its value more deeply?
When choosing a luxury watch, people tend to focus on easily understandable information such as brand recognition, case material, and power reserve. While these are important clues to understanding a watch, the value of an independent watchmaker's work cannot be fully grasped by numbers and materials alone.

In the second installment, we will introduce how to appreciate the works of independent watchmakers from three cultural perspectives: "savoir-faire," the knowledge and skill that underpins watchmaking; "métiers d'art," the craftsmanship and beauty created by the hands of artisans; and "objet d'art," the artistic presence that conveys ideas and stories.

Three cultural aspects of watches that cannot be seen from specifications alone.

These three aspects are not categories for clearly classifying watches, but rather values that overlap within a single watch and are expressed in different concentrations depending on the maker. Are you drawn to the precision and intricate mechanisms? Are you moved by the handcrafted details revealed through a magnifying glass? Or do you find romance in the stories of the universe or the history of watchmaking? Knowing what attracts you will deepen your enjoyment of looking at watches even further.

Savoir-faire
-The knowledge and skills of watchmaking that underpin precision and structure-

Savoir-faire refers to the knowledge and skilled techniques that underpin craftsmanship. In the case of watches, it encompasses everything from the design and mechanism for accurate timekeeping to the processing of parts and the fine-tuning after assembly. Although it may not be visible from the outside of the finished watch, it is the fundamental technology for creating a watch that functions reliably every day and can be used for a long time.

A robust and reliable mechanism for everyday use.
Habring²

With red and black numerals surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and a white sphere revolving above them, the "Oskar Roulette" is like a casino roulette wheel transformed into a wristwatch. While visually playful, its movement is made possible by a straightforward design that ensures the reliable operation of its complex mechanism.
The company behind this is Habring-Tzu, a watchmaking workshop in Austria. They prioritize accuracy in everyday use and longevity through regular maintenance, rather than relying on excessive ornamentation.

The movement's components and lubrication points are meticulously controlled, and the design takes future maintenance into consideration. The humor visible on the surface, combined with the solid mechanism beneath, reflects the workshop's commitment to robust and practical functionality.

Reimagining classic high-precision clocks by hand.
Atelier de Chronométrie

Atelier des Chronométries, based in Barcelona, Spain, aims to recreate classic, high-precision timepieces made between the 1930s and 1950s.
The watch pictured has a classic look with a rose-colored dial featuring multiple sub-dials and markings, accented by blue hands. On the other hand, the intricate movement, with its complex array of gears and levers, can be seen from the back of the case.
At this workshop, instead of simply assembling modern parts, each component is processed, finished, and adjusted by hand by the watchmaker. A distinctive feature is the meticulous finishing applied even to the hands, which occupy only a small area once completed.
Each piece is unique; no two watches are alike. Rather than imitating past designs, the tension and philosophy of precision inherent in classic chronometers are reinterpreted for modern timepieces.

While Hubling Two aims for robust mechanisms for everyday use, Atelier des Chronométrie reinterprets classic high-precision timepieces as one-of-a-kind creations. Although their approaches differ, both are expressions of savoir-faire, a sincere dedication to crafting timepieces as mechanical instruments.

Métiers d'Art
-The beauty of craftsmanship, created by the hands of artisans-

"Métiers d'Art" refers to craftsmanship techniques such as enamel work, engraving, polishing, and guilloché, all created by the hands of skilled artisans. If we only consider the function of a watch, there may be no need to polish, engrave, and decorate the tiny parts. Nevertheless, the effort is put into elevating the mechanism into a work of art worthy of appreciation. Time is spent even on details that would be overlooked with the naked eye. The full extent of this intricate work is only revealed when viewed through a magnifying glass.

Transforming the movement itself into fine arts and crafts.
LANG & HEYNE

Lang & Heyne carries on the watchmaking culture of Saxony, Germany. When viewed from the front, the white dial with neat Arabic numerals and decorative hands creates a classic and serene impression.
When you look at the reverse side of their watches, the impression changes dramatically. The golden base plate, the mirror-polished bridges, the blued screws, and the red jewels are neatly arranged, giving the movement itself the appearance of a work of art.

These components are meticulously crafted, with their contours and surfaces finished using traditional files and abrasives. The dials also employ enamel techniques, involving repeated glazing and firing. Each functional component is imbued with aesthetic value. This magnificent handcraft embodies the aesthetic sensibility that connects to the court clocks of the Saxony region.

"Objet d'Art"
Cultural objects that convey the universe and history

Clocks were originally created as tools to incorporate the movements of celestial bodies into human life. They measure the Earth's rotation and the movement of the sun, displaying invisible time. Returning to their origins, clocks and the universe are inseparable. Objet d'Art is a perspective that views clocks not merely as timekeeping devices, but as artistic entities that convey ideas, history, and grand narratives.

A precise depiction of the solar system unfolds on your wrist.
Christiaan van der Klaauw

Christian van der Krau of the Netherlands is a small maison specializing in astronomical watches. The dial of the "Grand Planetarium Eccentric Manufacture" depicts a miniature solar system with planets orbiting the sun. From Mercury to Neptune, the different orbital periods of each planet are precisely reproduced by gears. It's not just a decorative depiction of the starry sky; the movement of celestial bodies itself is driven within the mechanical watch.

The photographs of the manufacturing process show tiny gears arranged in an eccentric circle, with colorful planets placed beside them. It becomes clear that the magnificent depiction of the universe is actually born from the meticulous work of assembling parts the size of a fingertip.

Bringing the story of watchmaking history to the modern wristwatch.
LOUIS MOINET

With its two sub-dials, a display at the bottom of the dial, and slender blue hands, the modern "1816" design evokes the historical timekeeping devices that originated approximately 200 years ago.
The original "Compteur de Tierse" was invented by Louis Moinet and is recognized by Guinness World Records as the world's oldest chronograph. In the "1816" model, its unique display and push buttons on the side of the case have been reinterpreted for a modern wristwatch.

Louis Monet's watches are not just about past achievements; he incorporates the time itself, using extraterrestrial materials such as meteorites for the dials, and even the time itself, derived from materials sent from space.
Transforming historical inventions and rare materials into visually appealing forms that tell a story. The stories behind a watch are just as important as its function of telling time in shaping its value.

I look at my watch based on the values that move me.

Savoir-faire, métiers d'art, objet d'art. The appeal of an independent watchmaker's work isn't determined by just one of these. A superb mechanism, combined with beautiful handiwork, and infused with the maker's philosophy and history, shapes a single timepiece.

What matters is not which culture is superior, but which values move you. Some are drawn to precision and structure, while others are captivated by the polishing and engraving visible through a magnifying glass. Still others may find joy in wearing a watch that tells the story of the universe or the history of watchmaking on their wrist.

At "Watch Collectors Week 2026," you can see the actual watches, appreciating the movement of the mechanisms and the depth of the finish, which are difficult to convey through photographs alone. Explore watches from three different cultures as a new benchmark for finding a timepiece that resonates with your own values.

In the next and final installment of this series, we will explore the meaning of owning and passing on the work of an independent watchmaker to the future, by examining how the perfection of an industrial product and the subtle details created by human hands coexist.