From July 8th (Wed) to July 21st (Tue), the "Intriguing World of Independent Watchmakers and Small Maisons" exhibition will be held on the 5th floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku. In this three-part series, we explored the values and ways of enjoying watches from independent watchmakers and small workshops featured in this exhibition, which differ from those of big maisons.

In the first installment, we explored the reasons behind the global attention given to watches where the maker's face is visible. In the second installment, we introduced three cultural aspects—"savoir-faire," "métiers d'art," and "objet d'art"—that help us understand the value of independent watchmakers.
In this final installment, we focus on the theme of "Watch Collectors Week 2026," "Contrast And Coexist." We delve into the beauty unique to independent watchmakers' works, where seemingly contradictory elements—cutting-edge technology and classical craftsmanship, precision and subtle fluctuations, practicality and ornamentation—resonate within a single timepiece.

A value that is different from industrial products: "human touch"

With modern advanced industrial technology, it is possible to consistently produce watches that maintain uniform quality and keep time with high precision. This can be considered a major achievement that the watch industry has attained over many years.
However, what watch enthusiasts seek in the works of independent watchmakers is not just performance and uniformity. They are drawn to the ideals the maker had in mind and the decisions they made to complete each piece. The contours of the parts, the finish of the metal surfaces, and the structure of the mechanism all reflect the watchmaker's thoughts and the movements of their hands, which is another reason why independent watchmakers' works are so appealing.
Handcrafted work results in subtle differences in appearance due to the way tools are applied and the amount of pressure used. However, this is not simply unevenness. After the watchmaker assembles the watch, they make repeated adjustments to achieve a balance of precision, structure, and form, resulting in a beautifully harmonious timepiece. This "ultimate fine-tuning by human hands" is the core of the craftsmanship, transforming seemingly contradictory elements into a beautiful harmony.

Contradictory values resonating within a single watch.

The appeal lies in the analog, handcrafted work that supports the futuristic display.
Ressence

Founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence is a brand that re-examines the conventional watchmaking conventions, such as hands and crowns, and designs its own unique displays and operating mechanisms. On the deep blue display surface of the "TYPE 7," instead of conventional hands, multiple rotating discs show the time. The numbers and markings appear to float just below the domed crystal, providing visibility reminiscent of a digital display.
The futuristic look is created by a unique structure that seals oil into the display mechanism. By suppressing light reflection and refraction, it achieves an appearance where the display and the crystal appear as one integrated unit.

On the other hand, accurately transmitting the movement of the mechanical mechanism to the oil-filled display module requires the skill to meticulously assemble and adjust a complex structure. The back of the watch houses the time setting and winding mechanisms. The coexistence of scientific thinking and the watchmaker's craftsmanship creates an experience unlike that of conventional wristwatches.

The watchmaker's tuning: guiding physical phenomena to precision.
Armin Strom

Two balance wheels move side-by-side on the dial. You can enjoy watching how their vibrations influence each other and move closer to the same rhythm. Armin Strom, based in Biel, Switzerland, is an independent manufacture that handles everything from movement design and component manufacturing to assembly and finishing in-house, and is known for its openwork design that showcases the beauty of the mechanism on the dial side. In particular, they have pursued the resonance mechanism, which links the physical phenomenon of "resonance," where multiple vibrating bodies synchronize, to the precision of mechanical watches.

Simply placing two regulating mechanisms side by side will not create stable resonance. The dimensions and placement of the components, as well as how vibrations are transmitted, must be meticulously designed, and each unit adjusted individually to achieve the desired movement. This is a work of art that combines invisible physical laws with the watchmaker's intuition and fine-tuning.

The history of 19th-century watchmaking and the modern era of Japanese craftsmanship.
Czapek

This watch features a distinctive geometric pattern in the center of the dial, which appears three-dimensional due to the varying shades of indigo. It's a modern dress sports watch that incorporates a design inspired by traditional Japanese sashiko embroidery.
The brand name is derived from François Czapek, a watchmaker who was active in the 19th century. Inheriting his history and spirit, the brand now creates watches in collaboration with craftsmen and specialized workshops that excel in each field, such as movements, dials, and cases.

The "Antarctic Sashiko Indigo" embodies a fusion of traditional Japanese craftsmanship, Swiss watchmaking history, and modern manufacturing techniques. The movement, visible through the case back, features a neat arrangement of independent bridges and gears, reflecting Czapek's unique approach of bringing together the skills of multiple artisans into a single timepiece.

Uncompromising craftsmanship poured into its refined appearance.
Moritz Grossmann

Based on the traditions of Glashütte, Germany, Moritz Grossmann carries on the classic art of watchmaking into the modern age. Behind its understated exterior lies the brand's commitment to meticulous attention to detail.
The hands are also manufactured in-house, and a distinctive feature is that each polished metal is heated individually to bring out its color. Because the color changes in an instant with temperature changes, the finished product is greatly influenced by the experience and judgment of the craftsman. The movement also features a balance bridge with hand-engraved decorations, purple-tempered screws, and carefully polished gears and bridges. By dedicating time to even the parts that would be inconspicuous if only functionality were considered, a quiet appearance and meticulous handiwork coexist in a single timepiece.

2026 marks the 200th anniversary of the birth of Moritz Grossmann, the watchmaker after whom the brand is named. The aesthetic sensibilities nurtured in Glashütte are being passed down to the hands of contemporary craftsmen.

What is Shellman's vision for the "antique watch of the future"?

What independent watchmakers value most is harmonizing the mechanism, precision, and decoration of a timepiece through post-assembly adjustments, while preserving the subtle details created by handwork. Rather than simply pursuing uniformity, they bring out the individuality of each component and guide it to its best state, which is where the maker's sensibility resides. Furthermore, inheriting classical structures and parts that can be made by hand also leaves open the possibility that, even if mass-produced replacement parts become unavailable in the future, watchmakers who understand the structure will be able to continue repairing the timepieces.
Shellman, which will be showcasing watches from independent watchmakers and small maisons at this event, has its roots in antique watch specialty shops. It views these watches not as consumer goods to be used up in one generation, but as cultural objects that are maintained and passed on to the next owner. The wearer also becomes a part of the watch's long journey, and eventually, each watch grows into a "future antique watch."

Experience the passion of watchmakers at "Watch Collectors Week 2026"!

Over the course of three installments, we've explored the world of independent watchmakers and small maisons. What we find there is a world that cannot be measured solely by rarity or price: the philosophy and skill of the craftsmen, the culture that has been nurtured, and the determination to pass on the art of watchmaking to future generations.
To truly appreciate its value, it's essential to experience it firsthand. Observe the movement of the mechanism, the way the polished metal reflects light, the feel of winding the mainspring, and the weight on your wrist. These details convey the craftsman's intentions and the meticulousness of the work, aspects that cannot be fully captured by photographs or specifications alone.

At "Watch Collectors Week 2026," you can examine the details of watches with a magnifying glass while listening to staff members share stories about the watchmakers and the background of their workshops. Which mechanisms will surprise you, which finishes will captivate your eye, and which craftsman's philosophy will move your heart? Come and experience the real thing and enjoy finding that special timepiece for yourself.