2026.02.25 update

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer's blog Tomohiro Inaba v

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4
On the second day of my business trip, I visited Textile Lab Co., Ltd. in Gifu City in search of fabrics for TOHNAI , a brand created by Yuji Fujinai, also known as the "MATERIAL GEEK." This is a rare weaving company that handles everything from fabric development to sewing, and produces shirts for world-renowned domestic designer brands.
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ISETAN MEN'S Buyer's blog

The "ISETAN MEN'S Buyer's blog," written by buyers at the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , is a series that shares the behind-the-scenes story of how products are planned and displayed in stores, in the buyers' own words. It will provide insights into the manufacturing process, which is usually not visible to the public, through a blog format.

The underlying strength of production areas that supports domestic designer brands

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

A selection of fabric samples owned by Textile Lab Co., Ltd.

The "Textile Lab" is like a museum, with a vast archive of domestic brands from the 1990s. Gifu Prefecture once had a textile research institute called "Oriken," and there is a history of the region working together to support Japanese designers, from material development to production.

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

A selection of fabric samples owned by Textile Lab Co., Ltd.

The current owner is also from Oriken, carrying on that legacy. The workplace has many female staff members, and there are also trainees from overseas, and I was impressed by how they acquire skills over a 3-5 year period.

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

TOHNAI designer Yuji Fujinai selects fabrics from samples.

Fabric selection and development are key elements of TOHNAI 's creative approach.

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

Some of the fabrics I selected on this business trip.

This time, we selected fabrics for TOHNAI 's pop-up event to be held at the end of 2025 and started developing fabrics for 2026 and beyond.

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

A scene from a fabric development meeting for a suit exclusive to Isetan Shinjuku store.

We consulted our archives to determine the specifics of texture, color, synthetic fiber blend, and stretch. While we have few classic suit fabrics, we have a treasure trove of "never-before-seen" materials, including women's fabrics and synthetic materials. Our integrated environment, from development to production, allows for quick decision-making and uniqueness.

Experiencing the underlying strength of fabric production areas that support Japanese designer brands, and taking on the challenge of developing a new suit | ISETAN MEN'S Buyer’s blog Tomohiro Inaba vol.4

Exterior view of Textile Lab Co., Ltd.

View a list of images from "Textile Lab Co., Ltd."'s on-site visits.

View the TOHNAI product list on the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

*Scheduled to be released in March or later for the Spring/Summer 2026 season.

The present and future of suit-making regions

While the number of fabric manufacturers producing suits is declining, the industry remains strong, driven by the trend of "people choosing quality products when they need them." Within the industry, companies are strengthening their efforts to communicate the appeal of the fabrics themselves through branding and their own labels. However, the value of a fabric alone is difficult to convey through images or videos. We at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building feel our role is to carefully deliver the charm of the origin and techniques of each product to our customers through proposals that include the story and background behind each item.

The suits and apparel made with fabrics selected during this business trip will be available exclusively at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor, Men's Tailored Clothing, starting in April. These are masterpieces that reflect the passion of the designers and craftsmen for their work, so we hope you will come and see them in person at the store.

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Tomohiro Inaba
Shinjuku Men's Department Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing Buyer
Since joining the company, he has held various positions in the dress clothing floor, including sales, sales floor manager, and buyer. He practices his own unique style by mixing various trends while basing his work on classic styles. In his private life, he also participates in an activity called "Suit Stroll," where gentlemen who love suits take walks in suits in places that evoke the atmosphere of Japan, enjoying dress fashion and deepening their relationships.

Photograph & Text: Tomohiro Inaba


*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

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