WAIPER, the military select shop that caused a sensation last year with its pop-up store at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building will be holding another pop-up store this year.
This year, in addition to selling original products, we've teamed up with LA SCALA a highly regarded tailor brand exclusively available at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . We'll be offering a special collaboration jacket, born from the joint efforts of both brands, and will be holding a limited-time order event from November 2nd (Sat) to November 4th (Mon/Holiday). What prompted this collaboration between two brands with seemingly opposite styles—military and dress wear? We'll share the details of the special collaboration jacket and the story behind its creation.

What was the inspiration behind this unique, custom-made jacket?

Wiper, a Fukuoka-based military shop that handles deadstock military surplus and original items, is headed by LLWOOD, an influencer with 130,000 followers on Instagram who shares his style that mixes military and American casual wear. Now, the brand has collaborated with La Scala, a company that makes bespoke tailored wear. At first glance, these two brands seem incompatible, so why did they team up? LLWOOD, the director of Wiper, explains the reason as follows.

LLWOOD : "We were delighted to announce that we could hold our pop-up event again this year at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , following the great success of last year's event. We wanted to offer something special this time, and that's when we focused on the keyword "tailored." Both styles combine history and functional beauty, and have a strong influence on the modern fashion scene. We were confident that items incorporating these elements would offer our customers a fresh surprise and enjoyment. So, we asked Mr. Inaba, the buyer for men's tailored clothing on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building to introduce us to Mr. Yamaguchi, the tailor behind La Scala, who is an expert in tailoring and someone we could collaborate with on the creation of our products."

Furthermore, Yamaguchi, the representative of La Scala, a tailoring clothing brand that is highly popular at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , is himself a user of Wiper's items. That's why he says he was able to approach the collaboration with Mr. LLWOOD of Wiper with a clearer vision.

Yamaguchi : "This was my first experience collaborating with another brand to plan a product like this. However, I've always loved Wiper's clothes, such as sweatshirts and cargo pants, and I've watched LLWOOD's explanations of the items on YouTube, so I think it was easy to imagine how to create clothes that incorporate Wiper's unique style. It was also my first time tailoring military-style items, but it was a very fresh and enjoyable experience."

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  • LLWOOD WAIPER / Wiper Director
    Born in South Korea in 1978, she is the director of Wiper, a Fukuoka-based military select shop that sells deadstock surplus US military items and original products. Although she worked in an industry other than fashion until her mid-30s, she came to Japan in 2005 and started working in women's apparel in 2010, which led her to start posting fashion on Instagram in 2015, where she continues to do so today. On her Instagram account (@llwood), she shares military-mix styling and is currently active as an influencer with over 130,000 followers.
  • instagram: @llwood @almw_by_waiper

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  Nobuhito Yamaguchi LA SCALA
  After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, he acquired the fundamentals of tailoring at one of Japan's leading factories. He then traveled to Milan, Italy, to further hone his skills. Upon returning to Japan, he joined Mitsukoshi Isetan. Inspired by a Neapolitan master tailor he met at a trunk show, he began visiting Naples during his vacations.
  Based on the techniques he learned there, he creates suits that embody a powerful, masculine beauty while maintaining a lightweight feel, establishing a unique presence as a tailor. In 2014, he launched his own brand, La Scala, which continues to this day.
  instagram: @sartoria_lascala @isetanmens_tailored_clothing

Who is Nobuhito Yamaguchi of Tailor La Scala, a highly skilled tailor whose products are also very popular at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ?

La Scala is run by tailor Nobuhito Yamaguchi, who is permanently stationed at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . Having worked at one of Japan's leading factories and further honed his skills by attending tailoring workshops in Milan and Naples, Yamaguchi has adopted a unique style of clothing making that transcends national boundaries as his house style. He specializes in tailoring suits that flatter the wearer's body, with a natural shoulder area that minimizes the use of shoulder pads and padding, which are common among Japanese people who tend to have broad shoulders, and a natural form that also evokes the essence of Italian tailoring. Compared to Westerners, Japanese people tend to have thinner chests, forward-sloping shoulders in the upper body and bowlegs in the lower body, and La Scala specializes in tailoring that makes the Japanese suit look beautiful.

Click here to learn more about Nobuhito Yamaguchi LA SCALA

A masterpiece is complete, where military and tailored styles coexist!

The two met for the first time for this project. LLWOOD recalls that it was his first time working with a tailor and he was a little nervous at first. However, Yamaguchi shared a love for workwear and military style, and they quickly became comfortable with each other, and the ideas for the custom jacket grew rapidly.
After numerous meetings, the result was a "dress jacket that ages beautifully," made with moleskin that allows you to enjoy the changes in appearance over time, much like military wear. It also features a relaxed silhouette that exudes a luxurious mood reminiscent of bespoke clothing, while still being versatile enough to pair with casual wear such as denim and sweatshirts.

A "jacket that grows with you" made from moleskin fabric.

This garment uses moleskin fabric, commonly found in military wear. The slightly brushed texture gives it a lustrous finish, creating a somewhat luxurious feel.

LLWOOD : "The biggest challenge this time was choosing the fabric. Moleskin develops a unique character the more you wear it, so you can enjoy the aging process like vintage clothing as you wear and break it in over time. I also like the moss green color, which gives it a military-like feel."

A boxy silhouette that's easy to style casually.

By omitting darts in the front, the relaxed silhouette makes it a great match for casual outfits.

Yamaguchi : "I envisioned a boxy silhouette, like an American traditional sack suit jacket. Like a classic bespoke jacket, I made it so that it wouldn't be too structured and would match casual outfits as well. I also paid particular attention to the fitting, making sure the armholes were deep and the arms weren't too tight so that it wouldn't restrict movement even when wearing a sweatshirt underneath."

AMF stitching creates a luxurious, hand-stitched look.

One of the details that shows attention to detail is the AMF stitching used to finish the lapels and edges.

Yamaguchi: "Instead of using rugged machine stitching like on military wear, we deliberately finished it with hand-stitched-style AMF stitching to add a sense of luxury and warmth reminiscent of bespoke clothing."

The camouflage lining adds a subtle military touch.

Furthermore, attention has been paid not only to the outer fabric but also to the lining. The camouflage pattern that peeks out when you catch a glimpse of the inside adds a playful touch.

LLWOOD : "We've incorporated a subtle military touch by using a camouflage pattern for the lining. It's a flashy pattern at first glance, but by choosing the same green as the outer fabric, it doesn't stand out too much and adds a touch of playfulness. The sleeves also use the same camouflage lining, so you might want to roll up the cuffs of the functional buttoned sleeves to let it peek out and add a stylish accent to your outfit."

See other detail shots

What new perspectives did each of them gain by venturing into a genre they had never tried before?

For Wiper, it was bespoke tailored wear, and for La Scala, it was military wear—both brands were venturing into genres they had never worked in before. We asked them about their thoughts on creating these unique custom jackets and their future prospects for their respective brands.

LLWOOD : "Up until now, we've established a unique position with highly heritage items such as military and workwear, but by venturing into the classic realm of tailoring, I believe we can further broaden the scope of our brand. In the future, while utilizing the functionality and practicality we've had so far, we want to evolve into a unique style that is characteristic of LLWOOD, incorporating even more refined silhouettes and details, essentially fusing military and workwear with tailoring."

LLWOOD says that creating this custom-made jacket was a very exciting step for him. Drawing on his experience handling military wear from various countries and being familiar with their silhouettes and details, he feels confident that he was able to add his own unique interpretation to the functionality and aesthetic beauty of military wear.

Yamaguchi : "People who prefer bespoke or custom-made classic clothing sometimes find themselves unable to enjoy free and easy styling because they place so much importance on the rules of dress wear. I hope this project will give those who love classic dress wear an opportunity to enjoy casual and free-spirited fashion."

Yamaguchi proposes ways to enjoy dress wear that are not bound by conventional frameworks. He says that by working on projects like this, he hopes to increase opportunities to enjoy jackets.

An explanation of styling examples recommended by Mr. LLWOOD.

Here are some styling examples recommended by LLWOOD, incorporating the completed custom-made jacket. Please take a look at the diverse outfits created by the Wiper staff for inspiration.

Enjoy a modern take on traditional style with a casual tie.

This outfit exudes an American traditional vibe, featuring a button-down shirt and a Royal Crest tie. The relaxed military pants and cap give the otherwise formal tie a modern, casual feel. A green moleskin jacket elevates the casual, traditional style, adding a touch of class.

Elevate your denim style to the next level.

Even a basic denim style paired with a turtleneck sweater is elevated to a more sophisticated and refined look with this specially commissioned jacket. Compared to a typical cotton twill jacket, the supple moleskin fabric gives it a more elegant and classy feel. Choosing a black knit for the inner layer will further tighten the overall look.

A green-on-green set-up style outfit that plays with different materials.

Here, pairing it with green corduroy pants creates a set-up-like look. By combining the moleskin jacket with textured corduroy pants, you can enjoy the contrasting textures of the fabrics. For the inner layer, a simple green cut-and-sew top is chosen to accentuate the contrasting materials in the outfit.

The subtle sense of modernity makes it a great choice for women's outfits as well.

The subtle sheen and high-quality tailoring of the slightly brushed moleskin fabric create a fashionable atmosphere, making it a perfect match for women's styling. Even with a simple outfit of a blouse and wide chinos, simply throwing it on instantly creates a sophisticated look. The boxy silhouette also perfectly complements the relaxed style of women's fashion.

See other styling cuts

This project is the result of a collaboration between two cutting-edge brands from different genres. The result is a garment that will broaden the styling options for both military enthusiasts and dress wear lovers. On the day of the pop-up, try it on and experience this new world for yourself.

Related articles about Nobuhito Yamaguchi of LA SCALA

・A peek inside the personal belongings of Isetan Men's staff! Must-have items for Fall 2024 [Part 2] "#IsetanMen's Favorite Items"
・Isetan Men's LA SCALA tailor, Nobuhito Yamaguchi

Text: Shinji Hashimoto
Photograph: WAIPER Inc.

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
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