Q&A
2024.03.04 update

[The Complete Guide] How to Choose Leather Shoes: We'll also introduce recommended outfits for different occasions!




Men often have occasions to wear leather shoes, but with so many types available, it can be difficult to know which shoes to choose for each situation. For those of you who are unsure, this article will explain the basics of choosing the right leather shoes for men, so you won't be confused when the time comes.

  1. 1. What types of leather shoes are there?
    1. First, you should know about "closed lacing/open lacing"
  2. 2. How to choose leather shoes to suit the occasion and outfit
    1. 1. Straight tip
    2. 2. Plain Toe
    3. 3. U-tip / V-tip
    4. 4. Wingtip
    5. 5. Loafers
    6. 6. Monk strap shoes
    7. 7. Wholecut
    8. 8. Side elastic
    9. 9. Side-gore boots
  3. 3. What kind of shoes should I wear in these situations? How to choose leather shoes for different occasions and outfits.
    1. Business setting (suit style)
    2. Business scenes (business casual style)
    3. Recruitment style
    4. Wedding (black suit)
    5. Wedding (casual party style)
    6. Funeral
    7. Casual scenes


1. What types of leather shoes are there?


When choosing leather shoes, it's important to first understand the different types available. Here, we'll introduce some of the main types of leather shoes.

First, you should know about "closed lacing/open lacing"


In leather shoes, the "wingtip" refers to the leather part through which the laces are threaded.
Image on the left (closed lacing) : Also known as "Oxford," this type of shoe has the laces tucked inside the upper. Closed lacing leather shoes are commonly chosen for formal occasions such as weddings, funerals, and other highly formal events.
Image on the right (open lacing) : Also known as a "derby," this style has the lacing exposed on the back of the shoe. Compared to closed lacing, it has a slightly more casual look.

2. How to choose leather shoes to suit the occasion and outfit

1. Straight tip



Formalness level: ★★★★★

This design is characterized by a horizontal stitching across the toe. It is one of the most formal designs among leather shoes and is also known as the "cap toe" style. It makes a good impression not only in business settings but also at formal occasions such as weddings and funerals.

Related articles
►A Complete Guide to Must-Buy and Must-Have Leather Shoes: 'Straight Tip'

2. Plain Toe



Formalness level: ★★★

These shoes feature a design completely devoid of toe embellishments. Their simple design makes them practical and versatile, suitable for a variety of occasions, from business settings to casual outings.

3. U-tip / V-tip



Level of formality: ★★

The design features a U-shaped panel at the toe.
Some types, where the U-shaped part is angular, are also called V-tip shoes. Like plain-toe shoes, they are practical and versatile leather shoes, but they give a more casual and softer impression.

4. Wingtip



Formality level: ★★★

This design is characterized by its luxurious W-shaped broguing (decoration). It is also known as "full brogue."
Additionally, brogues that only feature a contrasting panel and lack broguing are called "blind brogues," and are characterized by their understated yet elegant appearance.

5. Loafers



Formalness level: ★★

Types of loafers that are easy to put on and take off without laces include "penny loafers" and "tassel loafers."
Coin loafers are a representative type of loafer that became popular in the American casual fashion scene, and they are one of the leather shoes that easily blend into casual styles.
Tassel loafers give off a moderately dressy impression, making them a great choice for a smart jacket and trousers style.

6. Monk strap shoes



Formalness level: ★★★★

This design uses a strap and buckle to fasten and secure the shoe across the instep. It is also known as a "monk" shoe.
Compared to other leather shoes, the design with metal buckles gives them a unique sense of luxury. "Monk" refers to a monk, and the design was inspired by the shoes worn by monks in the 15th century.
Shoes with two straps are called "double monk" shoes, and those with one strap are called "single monk" shoes.

7. Wholecut



Formalness level: ★★★★★

These leather shoes are made from a single piece of leather, resulting in a seamless design. They are also known as "one-piece" shoes.
This design, with no seams except at the heel, is said to be difficult to manufacture. While it has a formal design, in recent years it has begun to gain attention in casual settings as a shoe that gives a minimalist impression.

8. Side elastic



Formalness level: ★★★★

These leather shoes have no laces and feature elastic on the sides to ensure a comfortable fit.
Its features include a dressy appearance and ease of putting on and taking off.

9. Side-gore boots



Formalness level: ★★★

These boots feature elastic (gore) material on both sides and are also known as "Chelsea boots."
It gives a more stylish impression than formal wear.
Despite its minimalist appearance, it gives off a relaxed yet stylish impression, making it increasingly popular to pair with suits and jacket-and-trouser styles.

View the men's "leather shoes" product list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.



3. What kind of shoes should I wear in these situations? How to choose leather shoes for different occasions and outfits.

From here, we'll introduce recommended leather shoes for various occasions. We'll explain the key points for choosing shoes that match the occasion and your outfit, along with styling examples.

Business setting (suit style)



■ Leather shoes recommended for suit styles
Straight tip, plain toe, monk strap, wholecut, side elastic

■Selection Points
For business settings requiring a suit, lace-up shoes with closed lacing are recommended. Those in sales positions or other roles requiring frequent putting on and taking off of shoes may also consider side-elastic options.

Business scenes (business casual style)



■ Leather shoes recommended for business casual style
U-tip loafers, plain toe boots, wingtip boots

■Selection Points
When pairing it with a no-tie business casual style, choosing a design that isn't too formal will create a better balance.

Recruitment style



■Recommended shoes for job interviews
Straight tip

■Selection Points
For a typical plain-colored business suit, it's best to pair it with straight-tip leather shoes, which are the most formal type of leather shoe.

Wedding (black suit)



■ Leather shoes recommended for wedding styles
Straight-tip wholecut

■Selection Points
The color should be black. Choose leather shoes with laces, as these are considered more formal.

Wedding (casual party style)



■ Leather shoes recommended for party styles
U-tip loafers, plain toe, wingtip

■Selection Points
For wedding after-parties or casual parties, leather shoes with decorative tassel loafers or other stylish designs are recommended.

[Related Articles]
► [Explanation] What men should wear and bring to a wedding. A professional explains formal fashion etiquette.
►What is "casual attire" for wedding guests? Four casual attire styles for 2022 explained by staff Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building

Funeral



■ Leather shoes recommended for funeral attire
Straight tip

■Selection Points
The color is black, and the design is simple and unadorned. A formal, closed-laced straight-tip style is common.

Casual scenes







■ Leather shoes recommended for casual styles
U-tip loafers, plain toe boots, wingtip boots

■Selection Points
Choose a design that perfectly matches the level of formality of the occasion.

If you're tired of sneaker styles, or if you've always loved leather shoes, why not try incorporating leather shoes into various outfits?

View the men's "leather shoes" product list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.



 Click here for our special feature article: "A Thorough Guide to Men's Shoes Brands"

Click here for the latest information on men's shoes at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store ISETAN MEN'S.


Men's shoes Instagram: @isetanmens_shoes


Photo: Tatsuya Ozawa

*Some wording has been changed and corrected. December 27, 2022
＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, Men's Shoes, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.

Related Articles

Popular Products