People don't buy things they don't aspire to. Aspiration = Grouper hot pot theory

Shibata: So, what exactly is the philosophy behind "Cheap Chic"? In modern terms, it's about refining one's "aesthetic sense," isn't it?
To put it in my own words, it's about "using your ingenuity within the limits of what you can do without overreaching."
Customers may be overwhelmed by the flood of information and products, but perhaps they no longer have the time or energy to enjoy thinking about fashion.

Kobayashi: Right now, the most pressing problem I face in the fashion industry is that "there's nothing to aspire to."
There's no one to aspire to, and the presentations of aspirational brands are weak. There's none of the intense passion that Armani and Birkin had in the 90s. That's why I cut and sew jeans (laughs). I yearn for the luxury of owning a one-of-a-kind garment, carefully selecting the materials and creating something truly unique in the world.

In this age of social media where there's no real connection between people, I honestly don't know what will happen, but I hope that in the first year of the Reiwa era, something truly aspirational will be proposed, and I want to be on the side that creates aspiration, while at the same time continuing to speak out against it. People won't buy things they don't aspire to.


Shibata: That's so true! In this day and age, there's just so much output out that you quickly get overwhelmed and can't process it all (laughs).
And before you can even savor the afterglow, the next wave arrives. There's no time to slowly consider, "Why this now?" Therefore, there isn't enough time for a lasting longing to develop.

Kobayashi often talks about what he longs for, and his conclusion is "grouper hot pot" (laughs).
The grouper is a deep-sea fish that is incredibly delicious when cooked in a hot pot, as it's impossible to know when or where it will be caught. Its elusive taste, which is like the elegance of pufferfish with a touch of wildness, makes me want to rush there with my chopsticks in hand whenever I hear it's being served in Wakayama or Nagasaki. I know that the bowl of fish that you get after such a long search is a taste that is irreplaceable.
Always be prepared to receive it, both mentally and physically, and when you are blessed with it, savor it to the fullest. That is what grouper hot pot is all about, and that is the true meaning of the word "aspiration" in my opinion.


There are undoubtedly many people who would love to catch a ball and throw themselves into it if a brand were to throw out an aspirational message, but that message just never comes. These days, whether it's fashion or anything else, it's possible to enjoy it even without a background, but there's a feeling of having exhausted all the options. That's why people value the "you're the only one" feeling that comes from word-of-mouth and whispered conversations…

Aspiration is made up of "a pure desire to own something, a slight sense of unattainability, and the fact that it's something you could buy if you stretched your budget." That's why it's difficult to create. In this day and age, I want to create clothes that fall somewhere between these two books.


■Amver AUBERGE Designer: Manabu Kobayashi
Born in Kugenuma, Shonan in 1966. After graduating from high school, he enrolled in the Apparel Design Department of Bunka Fashion College to learn the fundamentals of fashion, and upon graduating in 1988, he traveled to France to study. After returning to Japan, he worked for five years as a planner for a denim and casual wear manufacturer headquartered in Carcassonne, Southern France. Later, he joined a state-of-the-art denim factory in Okayama. While learning about real manufacturing, he was involved in the planning and production of denim for numerous brands.
In 1998, he finally launched his own brand, Slowgun. Based on the concept of "nostalgic yet new," he continues to propose comfortable casual wear that mixes subcultures such as movies and music with fashion, and currently has a directly managed store, White*Slowgun, in Ebisu, which also serves as his office.
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Text: ISETAN MEN'S net
Photo: Amvai ( https://amvai.com/ )

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