JM WESTON pop-up store, which has been a spring tradition since 2021, will be held again this year from May 3rd (Wednesday, public holiday) to May 23rd (Tuesday), with three themes: "Pre-sale of rare colors," "Weston Vintage," and "Cordovan Order."

So this time, we asked three JM Weston lovers from different professions in the fashion industry—a photographer, a vintage shop owner, and a designer—to share their thoughts on JM WESTON . Please listen to their stories, which will also be helpful as preparation for the event.

Event information starting May 3rd (Wednesday/Holiday) can be found here.

Weston LOVER: 1
Photographer Kazuki Nagayama

French collars that go well with bespoke suits

My first pair of Westons were the tan brown "#641 Golf" that I encountered in Paris.

Photographer Kazuki Nagayama is well-known for his work in numerous men's magazines, commercial photography, and more recently, for his video shoots for "THE FIRST TAKE." Along with his work, he is also well-known for his styling, always wearing a bespoke suit while holding his camera, regardless of the shooting location.


"I've been wearing suits for about six or seven years now. When I was younger, I used to wear vintage American casual clothes, and when I rode motorcycles, I only wore leather jackets. But since becoming a freelance photographer, I've been wearing jackets with button-down shirts, something more traditional or basic. So suits have never been anything special to me. However, I don't wear business-style wool suits made of tropical wool or anything like that. I choose fabrics with a bit more texture, like tweed, flannel, or gabardine."

His first custom-made suit was by Ralph Lauren. After that, he was introduced to Tailor Kade in Shibuya by an acquaintance and began frequenting the shop. Apparently, most of the suits he currently owns were made by Tailor Yamamoto at this shop, but Mr. Nagayama had his own techniques for styling them.

"I have seven suits, each suited to a different season, and I've already decided on the shirts and ties, and they're all hanging on the wall. I might change the order depending on the weather or where I'm going, but basically I wear them in order from the end, so I don't really have to worry about coordinating outfits. I've pretty much decided which shirt and tie go with which suit, and I've also decided which shoes go with which suit. Among them, my JM WESTON Golf shoes are worn most often. That's because most of my suits are made of fairly tough materials, so masculine shoes suit them better than delicate ones."


The wool gabardine suit worn that day featured wide trousers and a generously sized 5.5cm double cuff. Mr. Nagayama, with his large build, had a classic look that seemed to have stepped right out of a 1960s Esquire magazine. JM WESTON "#641 Golf" shoes he wore with it were apparently purchased in Paris.

"I happened to be in Paris looking to buy some brown shoes. I had a casual thought that JM WESTON was probably the go-to brand for shoes in France. I had a strong image of them as a cute shoe brand, especially their signature loafers, but when I saw these grain leather Golf shoes in the store, I was surprised to see they made such masculine shoes. When I tried them on, they fit perfectly. You often hear about the Weston myth, like how they recommend smaller sizes or that it takes some time to break them in (laughs). But my Golf shoes are nothing like that; they've been comfortable right from the start. The rubber soles are just the right hardness. They don't wear down nearly as much as the rubber soles on other brands' shoes. I haven't had to repair or replace them even once."

To the 5th station of Mt. Fuji by JM WESTON

Nagayama-san even wears "#641 Golf" shoes for outdoor shoots. She has even posted a photo on her Instagram of herself standing at the 5th station of Mt. Fuji wearing "#641 Golf" shoes. She wears them quite toughly, from studio shoots to beach and mountain shoots, and even overseas shoots, and what's impressive is that she says she's not particularly diligent about taking care of them.

"When we're filming on the beach, it's common for all the staff to be wearing sneakers while I'm the only one in golf shoes. Sneakers have mesh uppers that get sand in them, but leather shoes don't have that problem. When we're filming overseas, we have equipment to carry, so we can't bring multiple pairs of shoes, but when it comes to shoes that can handle everything from city shoots to evening dinners, golf shoes are convenient. They're so tough that if you look closely, you'll see some small scratches on the edges and uppers, but they're not noticeable because they're grain leather. I don't really take care of them until the last minute, but isn't it amazing that they still maintain their elegance?"


Most of the shoes he has owned up until now are black. He has a few pairs in brown and burgundy. In other words, the brown "#641 Golf" is a rare find for Mr. Nagayama. The fact that he wears them so often is because he is so fond of the brown color, which is easy to match with various styles. Apparently, Mr. Nagayama doesn't actually own any signature loafers, and there's a reason for that.

"I've always been interested in loafers, but I've deliberately avoided them for a while. As I mentioned earlier, when I have suits made, I have the trousers tailored to be wide, so I'm worried that signature loafers might make my feet look small. With black, I feel like my feet would look too understated. Plus, my shoe size is 10 (about 28cm), so I don't think they'd be in stock, which is why I haven't actively looked for them."

So, we showed Mr. Nagayama the Hunter Green versions of the "#641 Golf" and "#180 Signature Loafers." At this event, in addition to these two models, the "#690 Yacht" will also be available in limited edition Hunter Green, Burgundy, and Dust Suede colors.

"Hunter green is nice. I know that JM WESTON offers a wide variety of materials and colors even for their standard shoes, but this color makes your feet look tough and has a strong presence. It goes perfectly with a beige suit, and it has an understated elegance. I like that the design and the color aren't overly flashy. I think that's what makes them French shoes. I don't know if you'd call that esprit, though."

Weston LOVER: 2
Vintage shop owner, Takumi Oshima

Vintage shoes that surpass in comfort and leather quality.

Simple yet elegant. Shoes you can wear without even thinking about it.

Koenji is a town where overseas designers secretly come to dig through archives. Just beyond the shopping arcade on the south side of the station is Bonview, a vintage clothing shop owned by Takumi Oshima. Having worked in the dress department of Beams for over 20 years, he became independent last year. Originally a fan of vintage clothing, Oshima excels at mixing dresses and vintage pieces, and his selection is filled with "things that Oshima likes," including items from America, England, and France.

"I don't really think about what kind of style I belong to. Today's safari jacket is original, the shirt is by Gitman Brothers, and the pants are a custom order from Germano. I think of it as my own unique style, a mix of vintage and new clothing. But I usually wear leather shoes. I basically just like leather shoes."


The store was filled with used leather shoes from various countries. The racks held denim, leather, and tailored jackets. Ms. Oshima, who enjoys mixing and matching various styles, says that leather shoes are overwhelmingly her go-to footwear, and she loves JM WESTON 's "#641 Golf." She currently owns two pairs.

"I bought one pair in Paris. In Japan, they usually recommend smaller sizes, but in Paris, they brought me a size about two sizes larger, so I actually asked for the smaller size. I also bought a pair of signature loafers at the same time, but I overwhelmingly wear them for golf. The other pair, made of grain leather, was bought in Aoyama, Tokyo. Both are brown, but the smooth leather one is a slightly darker color. When do I wear them? I don't really think about it. In fact, I think the good thing about JM WESTON is that you can wear them without thinking about it."


For Ms. Oshima, shoes are the last thing she chooses when putting together an outfit. "After all, shoes are just tools to protect your feet when walking on the road. They don't need to look luxurious, and they can be plain," she says, indicating that she doesn't like styling that starts with shoes, or shoe styles that have been deified with strong emotional attachments.

"I don't like the 'Look at this!' kind of vibe, whether it's clothes or shoes. I think shoes don't need to be too flashy, so it's better if they're not ostentatious. In that sense, I like how JM WESTON looks elegant despite being understated. As a brand, they never do anything out of the ordinary. There are no tapered designs like the Beveled West, and they look good even without being polished to a shine. I think the appeal of JM Weston is that they continue to make shoes that are like tools, and yet they have a certain elegance."

A once-in-a-lifetime vintage encounter: finding your own unique pair of shoes.

"#641 Golf" is, as the name suggests, a sports shoe for golf. It was created in 1955 and is now considered an all-condition shoe that fits any situation. There are many U-tip shoes with similar designs, but for Ms. Oshima, "#641 Golf" stands out for its exceptional elegance.


"Even though they have rubber soles, they don't seem too thick, so they can be paired with a wide range of outfits, from workwear to dressy clothes. When paired with cargo pants, JM WESTON shoes overwhelmingly create a refined style. I like the quality of the leather and the texture of the shoelaces, which don't come undone easily. With other brands of shoes, there's like a theory of 'how you have to wear them,' isn't there? JM WESTON doesn't have that. It might be because of the French national character. Just like with clothing, Britain, America, and Italy each have their own unique cultures, but I feel that France, in general, has absorbed the best aspects of Britain, America, and Italy to create its own style. I think JM WESTON shoes are the same. They bring together the best parts of each and mix them together. That's why I think they suit so many different styles."


On this day, what I wanted to show Ms. Oshima was "Weston Vintage," a line of shoes that JM WESTON has collected, repaired, and restored before selling them. In addition to the classic "#180 Signature Loafers" and "#641 Golf," some rare models and colors will also be available. Repaired by local craftsmen at the factory in Limoges, the company's birthplace, the shoes are priced at 50-60% of the original price, making it an irresistible find for shoe lovers.

"The leather quality of shoes from this era is really good. These signature loafers, for example, are the perfect size for me, but I think they're probably women's shoes. It seems that Weston Vintage also has women's models mixed in. Oh, these are Yacht shoes. Only these have the brand name engraved on the side. They would suit my style today."

After saying that, he tries them on, repeatedly pressing his feet against the shoes as if to confirm the feel.

"Unlike new shoes, the upper is more flexible and the insole is already broken in, making them comfortable to wear. I think a lot of people will be happy that they don't have to 'break in' them. The fun of vintage shoes is searching for them, hoping to find your favorite color and size. I heard there was a huge line last time too. I'm sure I'll be lining up again."

Weston LOVER: 3
Sankakke designer, Yuhi Ozaki

Limited edition cordovan ordered at the Isetan pop-up in 2022.

The "#180 Signature Loafers" are available in all colors in the inline collection.

Yuhi Ozaki, the designer of "SANKAKEE," is known for sharing his fashion journey through various media, including his own YouTube channel. When we spoke to him in his meticulously designed atelier, he surprised us by saying, "I think I own almost every color of the ready-made #180 Signature Loafers."

"When I was working at a select shop, I used to go to Paris on business trips about once every six months, so I gradually collected shoes there. I haven't been able to go to Paris for the last 10 years or so, but I have a soccer friend at the Aoyama store. I ask him for information and ask him to get me any models that interest me. I'm not sure exactly, but I think I have about 20 to 30 pairs in total. I don't consider myself a collector (laughs). But I've been thinking that maybe my next purchase should be a pair of Russian calfskin shoes with all-terrain soles."


Mr. Ozaki often speaks about shoes in specialist magazines and other publications, but who knew he had such deep knowledge of JM WESTON ? Upon further inquiry, it turns out he owns several rare models. Ostrich side-gore boots made to order, hunter green Hunt Derby boots... items that would make any enthusiast drool.

"I've had quite a few custom orders made, and the ones I'm wearing today are a pair of cognac cordovan shoes I ordered last May at JM WESTON event at Isetan Shinjuku. They arrived in January, and I've only worn them three times, but I'm already enjoying them because I can see the uneven coloring throughout, which is unique to cordovan, and how the color is changing in the areas where I've worn them in. I own cordovan shoes from other brands as well, but this unique shine is irreplaceable. Also, although they look stiff, they're surprisingly soft and pliable when you put them on. I think it's a characteristic of horsehide, but the way they conform to your feet is something you can't get with calfskin."

The appeal of cordovan that calfskin doesn't have

Actually, the cordovan signature loafers are not a model that is part of our regular lineup. They were introduced at last year's event. For this year's cordovan order, we will be offering black cordovan in the "#180 Signature Loafers" and "#641 Golf" models.

"What's so appealing about cordovan is that even though it's a single color, it appears to have multiple colors. This cognac color, for example, has beige-like areas, and even the black has grayish hues in parts. I love the deep, antique-like colors of cordovan. That being said, it definitely suits American casual-based vintage clothing and denim better than more formal dress styles."


Mr. Ozaki's jacket today is a custom order from Belvest. He deliberately chose a fabric that resembles old school stripes. The tie he tied with his Western shirt is a vintage piece with a hand-painted horse's face. "I chose the horse to match my cordovan shoes," he said with a laugh, and his Western tailor-inspired styling was superb. The "#180 Signature Loafers" also look great with this kind of styling.

"Signature loafers are different from both American and Italian shoes, but in terms of fashion, they suit American-style traditional and casual looks, and conversely, they can also be paired with classic styles, making them incredibly versatile. Conversely, you could say they don't belong to any particular category. When paired with American casual or American traditional styles, they exude more elegance than American loafers, and even when worn with a suit, they don't look sloppy, yet they create a stylish look with a touch of playful incongruity. That subtle sense of balance is a charm that other shoes can't replicate. And people around you will know you're wearing JM WESTON . That ability to stand out while remaining understated is a truly unique appeal."

You should enjoy leather shoes more freely.

Mr. Ozaki says he wears leather shoes five days a week and sneakers two days a week. He says one reason for this is that he has recently been consciously trying to wear suits more often, but he also says that he wants young people to experience the joy of wearing leather shoes, just as he did when he was younger.

"The select shop I joined when I was 21 specialized in French style, so I had many opportunities to wear leather shoes, not just JM WESTON . But nowadays, young people wear suits and sneakers not only to the office but even to weddings. Sometimes they're leather shoes, but they have sneaker soles. Personally, I've been worried about the breakdown of appropriate footwear for different occasions. But just as we can freely wear suits in our private lives rather than for work, I think we should be able to wear leather shoes more freely too. For example, I sometimes come to my atelier alone, just to do some office work and then go home, but I still wear a suit and leather shoes. Wearing leather shoes with jeans, or cargo pants with leather shoes, is fun as a fashion statement, isn't it? I think leather shoes should be more free and fun, and in the sense that they can be worn for a long time, they might be SDG-friendly and in line with current trends. I'm very happy to be interviewed like this and to be able to talk about these free-thinking ideas on my YouTube channel. I'd be grateful if readers of this article would even be curious about what shoes Ozaki is wearing today, or what kind of shoes she's pairing with her clothes."




Finally, Mr. Ozaki shared his perspective on rediscovering the merits of leather shoes in this age of sneakers. His words were particularly compelling because he has owned, ordered, and worn many pairs of shoes. The pop-up store, which will be held from May 3rd (Wednesday, public holiday), will surely be an opportunity to rediscover the charm of leather shoes.



*Masks are removed only during filming.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa / Natsuko Okada (Studio Mug)

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