Let's take a look at the custom-made shirts that the three shirt experts have brought together.

---For today's interview, you've all brought your own custom-made shirts, which you could say are your absolute masterpieces. Let's start with Mr. Hanano's shirt presentation.

About a year ago, I saw the fabric and thought I wanted to make something with it – it was CANCLINI fabric. Because the pattern is so strong, I made the collar a clerical style, and deliberately left the cuffs to showcase the pattern, giving it a bespoke feel.
For the other shirt, I wanted a simple, plain blue wide collar, so I studied the collar height, length, and angle of stylish men on Instagram. I made an experimental version with a "1cm gap and 0.5cm longer" collar, but looking at the finished product, I think I could have been a bit more daring (laughs). The fabric is domestically produced 100-count double-ply yarn.



Hatori: My London stripe shirt hasn't even been made for a year yet, but if you look closely, there's a strong navy thread running along the edge of the stripes, which makes it a really interesting fabric compared to other stripes!
It's amazing that Hanano Hatori noticed that. Impressive!
The reason I chose the Hatori button-down style is because I was conscious of the recent trend of long-point buttons. It's a long-point button-down shirt that you can wear with the buttons undone, fastened with the collar bar, and tied up with a tie.
The fabric is soft to the touch and very comfortable to wear.
Taniguchi: "Unbuttoning your button-down shirt" has become a staple of Hatori's style. When Hatori starts doing it, all his colleagues and juniors start imitating him! (laughs)



Hatori : I don't usually choose button-down shirts, but I've always admired the "long-point collars with narrow openings" I saw in old classic movies. However, I thought that if I actually made them with pinhole collars, it would give off a mafia-like image (laughs).
So, by deliberately styling a sporty button-down shirt in a relaxed way and using a collar bar to hold up the tie, I'm intentionally mixing a highly formal, dressy style with a more relaxed, casual style. It's 100% my personal preference.
Hanano has completely come full circle (lol).
Hatori Chambray shirts are made in pairs using the same fabric but with different collar styles. This tab collar is the best design I've arrived at about seven years ago. It's what you might call a chambray shirt for wearing with a tie.


Taniguchi: So this is the "Hatori Tab"... It was completed seven years ago.
Hanano: We've all benefited from this "Hatori Tab," and our juniors are all trying to imitate it and make their own!




The image on the left shows the button-down shirt brought by Taniguchi. In contrast, the image on the right shows the tab-collar shirt brought by Hatori.
Both are made of chambray fabric.

Taniguchi: As I've been transitioning to a more dressy, classic style, I realized that a shirt that looks too much like a dress shirt can come across as cosplay. So, I created a chambray button-down shirt that allows you to enjoy fashion while still having a touch of casualness. Button-downs are very versatile, so I'd like to wear a shirt made of this kind of fabric with a suit or jacket. Of course, I wear it with the buttons undone.
Hanano Taniguchi doesn't use color bars, instead opting for a lighter look that complements her jacket.


I haven't actually worn the other shirt yet, but I ordered it last month and it just arrived. The theme was, "How can I incorporate a regular collar shirt, the kind worn by a typical, traditional businessman, into my current styling?"
Hatori and Taniguchi have come full circle (lol).
Taniguchi's inspiration came from a long-point button-down shirt. He extended the tips of the regular collar and raised the collar stand, creating a prototype that seems to have a V-zone with a unique nuance. He wants to use this shirt as an "introduction to regular collars," making improvements as he wears it, and getting closer to his ideal form.
By the way, Hanano, who is your "My Best Dresser"?



In terms of the historical context, it's clothing with a 1970s feel. It's the kind of style that so-called classic Asian fashionistas aspire to...
Taniguchi : I see. I understand the image of the outfit. I'd love to try on a white linen three-piece suit.
Hanano: I'm the same age as Al Pacino, and I think he looks so cool sitting on the sofa! I don't intend to imitate everything, but there are parts of him that I sometimes think about when I'm thinking about suits and shirts.



We want to make custom-made shirts, which offer a high degree of freedom and are fun to wear, more accessible and popular!

---We've heard all about the Three Sages' love for shirts. Finally, could you give some advice to people who are interested in having shirts made in the future, or who are interested in custom-made shirts, or who want to enjoy the process even more?

Hatori,
what are your current "points of focus" when it comes to shirts?
Taniguchi: For me, it's the "stiffness of the collar interlining." I pay a lot of attention to it when I'm making them. Even with the same collar shape, the look changes depending on the "interlining," so I try out everything from soft to stiff, and even the way I insert and remove the collar stays changes the look, so I want to make shirts that can show two different sides to their design.
Hatori: I'd like to continue trying out what you might call "unconventional" styles. For example, I'd like to create a mafia collar that's "a terracotta-colored three-piece suit with a pure white shirt, a stiff collar stay, a long point collar, a very short pinhole bar, and a small knot."


Taniguchi has a very clear image in his mind. That's a dangerous guy!! (laughs).
Hanano: I want a cool regular collar shirt. I look at ready-made shirts and custom collar styles, but something is always off, and to be honest, I still haven't found the answer that's "the one" for me.
Mr. Taniguchi created a prototype of the regular color as an experiment, and it seems we all share the same desire to "wear a tie stylishly."
Taniguchi : "Hatori Tab" is a collar style that all my colleagues and juniors approve of, so I want to create the next collar. For example, a collar that fits a tie exceptionally well. It would be interesting to create a collar or specifications that people in the world would want.
While there's an element of personal satisfaction in ordering a Hatori custom-made shirt, wearing it over time can also provide hints and insights for your next outfit.
Also, it makes changes in body shape very noticeable. My chest and stomach area feel a bit tight... "Hmm? Maybe I've gained a little weight, so maybe I should cut back on food?" (laughs).
You can tell just by looking at Hanano's clothes, right? Like, "Oh my goodness?" (laughs).


As a stylist , I get to see a wide variety of fabrics every season that are unique to bespoke shirts, which greatly expands my repertoire of styling ideas. This is a valuable asset for anyone involved in bespoke shirts.
And from the perspective of the customer, the combinations are endless, which is irresistible for fashion lovers. There's also the challenging yet enjoyable aspect of "agonizing over which to choose from the vast selection."
Hatori Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 's custom shirts offer a high degree of ability to meet customer requests and a wide range of choices. Furthermore, the process of customers and stylists discussing "what kind of shirt to wear for this occasion" itself elevates the customer's sense of style, and their attention to "how they want to present themselves" becomes the deciding factor in choosing collar styles, details, and fabrics.
Taniguchi: That's certainly true. Once you understand your own preferences, those preferences become what's called "WILL"—the person you want to be. When you have a clear idea of "how you want to do it," ordering becomes more and more enjoyable. To truly enjoy ordering, first take a look at what you like, the clothes you own, and how you wear them. That will give you some hints.
Hanano: This time, for a different project, two customers with completely opposite body types placed personal orders, but it was less about "fashion to wear for work" and more about ordering as a form of attire or a solution.
When choosing fabrics for business wear, the options tend to be conservative, but the customer seemed to really enjoy the design selection. I'm glad they found that aspect of ordering custom-made clothing enjoyable.



Photo: Hideyuki Seta
Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

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