Amvai, a men's fashion media site that seeks out and promotes items that are "just right"—neither " safe" nor "irrelevant"—stands out for its members, the AMVARs, who are discerning and knowledgeable about everything. In a previous collaboration project with Isetan Men's Net, they interviewed three designers on the theme of "Exploring the Fashion Perspectives of Masters Through Classic Books."

For our fourth guest, we have Eisuke Yamashita, the fashion director of the magazine "Men's Precious" (Shogakukan). From his bag, Yamashita pulled out Alan Flusser's classic book, "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion."
Continuing from the first part , please enjoy Yamashita's "Exploring Fashion Experts Through Classic Books."

Why the late 1980s Armani style resonates in 2019, the first year of the Reiwa era.

Shibata mentioned the late 1980s as a period that currently interests him. Where does that feeling come from?

In the world of Yamashita Dress Clothing, derivatives of Classico Italia have been dominant since the late 2000s. Even looking at the styles showcased at Pitti Immagine Uomo, it's a world of Italian logic and rules. I've enjoyed the pleasure of such logically structured dressing, but I also felt a certain constraint, and just as I was growing tired of that world, I found the freedom of the 80s.
My focus shifted from theory to expressing nuances, and from there I became drawn to things reminiscent of the 80s. I simply liked the idea of fashion that was like, "Look, isn't this color pretty?"

Shibata : I see. But expressing nuances is difficult in 'Men's Precious,' which is Yamashita's main field...

Yamashita : Yes, 'Men's Precious' is aimed at established men in their 40s and 50s, so the expression is sophisticated. But I can express a concentrated feeling with a "concentrated juice-like style." I'm a bit of an unconventional person (laughs).

Shibata: I'm also more of an unconventional type (laughs). Certainly, the world of men's clothing is rule-based, and it's a world where those who have mastered those rules break the mold, deconstruct it, and enjoy the process of incorporating it into their lives in a playful way.
Did you discover the appeal of theory based on the gaps in your own experiences, Mr. Yamashita? Or did you first have a logical foundation, and then come to enjoy the gaps depending on your mood?


Yamashita : Hmm, I wonder... I guess it's more about logic. I like the fashion of people from the past, and the rules seemed comfortable and rational to me, but when one thing becomes an exception and "acceptable," then many other things also become "acceptable," and I guess I've started to enjoy playing around with classic styles.

Shibata: That's a very Yamashita-like answer (laughs). To elaborate further...?

In my case, Yamashita , a big reason was that I was really into vintage clothing, and I think "anything goes as long as it's within the classic category." I once felt that the silhouette of my slim pants was boring, so I bought some jodhpurs and wore them, and it felt really fresh and worked well for me.
When I traveled abroad dressed like that, elderly people in London and Florence were delighted. I believe that "classic clothing that suits the atmosphere of the city is important," and for me, wearing a nylon jersey set-up in Florence, for example, would require more courage. I have my own criteria: it's okay as long as it doesn't disrupt the atmosphere of the city and blends in with it.

Shibata: Is that the case in Tokyo as well?

Yamashita: That's true in Tokyo too. I'm the type of person who cares about what other people think, so I don't think I'd wear anything flashy, but I do make an effort to show respect for the city and the place I'm in.
While all-black attire doesn't quite suit historic cities like Rome, it fits perfectly in Paris. In Tokyo, almost anything works, but I still try to consider the "color of the city" when choosing my clothes.

Blending into the Shibata neighborhood is incredibly difficult. But Mr. Yamashita manages it effortlessly. He truly is a master of fashion!

On page 2, what was inside the book that Yamashita brought with him, a book filled with his feelings...?