The annual watch festival, "Watch Collectors Week 2026," will be held again this year at Isetan Shinjuku. This article will feature "The Profound World of Independent Watchmakers and Small Maisons," which will be held on the 5th floor of the main building from July 8th (Wed) to July 21st (Tue). This event will showcase watches infused with the philosophy and skills of independent watchmakers and small workshops.

Currently, watches that showcase the craftsman's face are attracting keen attention from watch enthusiasts worldwide. Why are people so drawn to watches from small workshops, distinct from those of big fashion houses? Behind this lies a growing sense of mature values that go beyond simply "choosing a watch by its brand name."

In this three-part series, we will explore the fascinating world of independent watchmakers and small maisons. In this first installment, we will examine the background behind how their watches have gained worldwide attention.

Increasing attention on independent watchmakers in the global watch scene.

At Watches & Wonders, one of the world's largest watch trade fairs, held in Geneva in the spring of 2026, the presence of independent watchmakers and small maisons became even more prominent. While attention was focused on the new product launches of major maisons, collectors around the world also showed strong interest in watches produced by individual watchmakers and small workshops.

This trend didn't suddenly emerge in the last few years. Isetan Shinjuku and Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store have been introducing this world since 2019 under the category of "Independent Watchmakers." They have been focusing on its depth since a time when it was still considered a highly specialized genre known only to a select few enthusiasts.

One of the pioneers in introducing this trend to Japan is Shellman, an antique watch specialty store founded in 1971. Instead of simply selling old watches, the store focuses on repairing and maintaining them, ensuring they are passed on to their next owners. Because they have continuously observed the value of timeless timepieces, they see potential in the creations of contemporary independent watchmakers as watches that can endure into the future.

What Shellman values is not simply collecting rare watches. It's about whether the watch can be enjoyed for a long time, and whether the craftsman's attitude is trustworthy. They consider not only the watch's craftsmanship but also the personality and philosophy of the maker to determine if it's a watch worth introducing to Japanese customers. That's why the independent watchmakers' watches selected by Shellman possess a compelling quality that cannot be expressed by rarity alone.

Clocks have evolved from "tools for telling time" to luxury items, and then to art.

The quartz crisis of the 1970s marked a major turning point for mechanical watches, shifting them from mere necessities for telling time to objects with different values. The proliferation of highly accurate and mass-producible quartz watches meant that mechanical watches were no longer the only practical option. On the other hand, more and more people began to find beauty in the mechanism itself—the meshing of gears, the unwinding of springs, and the movement of hands—and mechanical watches transformed into luxury items, works of art, and sometimes even art pieces.

Of course, the value of the watchmaking culture built by the big fashion houses is immeasurable. Universal designs, consistent quality, overwhelming industrial power, and brand trust. While we respect these, there is a different kind of enjoyment to be had from watches made by independent watchmakers. Watches made by a single watchmaker, or a small workshop, who confronts the ideals they believe in. Therein lies a philosophy of craftsmanship that cannot be measured by specifications or logos alone.

The era of creating watches with a "visible face" is dawning, fostering empathy.

The recent surge in attention to independent watchmakers is partly due to the development of social media. In the past, it was difficult to know who was making watches and in what conditions in distant European workshops. However, now we live in an era where watchmakers themselves share information about parts in progress, their work processes, and their own thoughts. Customers and collectors can now experience not only the finished watch, but also the entire process of how a watch is created.
This shift is also influencing the values people place on choosing a watch. Beyond the joy of owning a well-known brand, there's a growing trend of choosing watches based on the desire to support the creators or to resonate with their philosophy. Watches from independent watchmakers and small maisons don't originate from market averages; they start from the ideals the maker believes in. That's why the details of a watch reflect the creator's thoughts and aesthetic sense.

So, what exactly does this "visible-faced" watchmaking entail? Here, we'll explore its appeal through three brands that are particularly noteworthy at this year's Watch Collectors Week.

Achieve precision and aesthetic beauty with your own hands!
Sylvain Pinaud

Sylvain Pinault, a watchmaker based in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, is dedicated to perfecting chronometry—the ideal level of precision—and pursuing exquisite craftsmanship. The "Tourbillon" pictured is a complex mechanism designed to equalize the effects of gravity on accuracy by housing the heart of the watch in a rotating cage. The mechanism, boldly displayed on the dial, along with the asymmetrical display and the delicate finishing of the mainplate and bridges, are particularly striking. His artistry lies not merely in showcasing the complex mechanism, but in elevating the structure itself, which pursues precision, into a form of aesthetic beauty.

This watchmaking process is completely different from that of a large-scale production line. Each component and each finishing touch is meticulously considered, bringing the watch closer to the ideal timepiece the craftsman envisions. This willingness to dedicate time to processes that might be overlooked for efficiency alone is what truly defines an independent watchmaker.

Creating watches from the perspective of a restorer.
Christian Lass

Christian Lass of Denmark is a watchmaker with expertise gained from restoring antique watches. The watch pictured has a very refined and classic look at first glance. The gently placed logo, the slender blued steel hands, and the understated small seconds subdial are all striking. Rather than attracting attention with strong ornamentation, it creates a quiet beauty through the balance of each element.

On the other hand, looking at the other side, Christian Lass's experience as a restorer is reflected in the design and finishing of the movement. Having worked on restoring masterpieces, he has a deep understanding of what it takes for a watch to keep time for a long time. It is this perspective that he uses to reflect his own answers to modern watchmaking, and this is a major appeal of Christian Lass.

The highlight is the incredible skill of the hand engraving.
KUDOKE

German brand Kudoke strongly reflects the handcrafted work of watchmaker Stefan Kudoke. The limited edition "KUDOKE 3 Nocturne," featured at Watch Collectors Week, has a serene gray dial with fan-shaped hour markers and an infinity-like hand. Its restrained appearance reveals a unique world view that evokes a sense of poetry.

Turning the matte-blasted case over reveals a stark contrast to the serene appearance of the front. The movement's bridges are entirely covered in hand-engraving, a technique where the design is carved directly into the metal without the use of a preliminary sketch. The depth and shading of the engraving possess a strength that differs from uniform decorations achieved through machine processing, allowing one to imagine the movements of the craftsman's hands. The refined elegance of the front and the dense, condensed workmanship on the back—this vivid contrast is the unique charm of Kudoke.

A mature watchmaking experience, where you choose a timepiece that resonates with the creator's philosophy.

The appeal of independent watchmakers' timepieces lies not just in their rarity. It's also in their pursuit of precision, the beauty of their craftsmanship, and the philosophy embodied in each watch. The joy of this world lies in being able to choose what resonates with you based on your own values.
To truly appreciate the depth of craftsmanship and the artistry that cannot be captured in photographs, we highly recommend seeing the actual watches. Why not experience the passion that watchmakers pour into each timepiece at "Watch Collectors Week 2026"?

Next time, we will explore the value of independent watches from three perspectives: "savoir-faire," which supports the precision and exquisite finish of a watch; "métiers d'art," which represents the beauty created by the hands of craftsmen through engraving and enamel work; and "objet d'art," which conveys ideas and stories beyond mere practicality.