This edition of our "Complete Guide to Brands" focuses on JOHN LOBB , the coveted leather shoe brand that every discerning man dreams of owning! Often called the "King of Leather Shoes," we'll explore the allure of JOHN LOBB , a brand admired by countless people, through six key points.

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View the ISETAN MITSUKOSHI LUXURY JOHN LOBB product list.

1. Tracing the 150-year history built by JOHN LOBB

Born in England in 1829, John Lobb learned shoemaking in London and, during the Gold Rush era, moved to Australia where he achieved great success manufacturing boots for miners. Later, in 1866, he founded "John Lobb," named after himself, and established the bespoke boot business in Australia.

JOHN LOBB 's leather shoes, which combine sophisticated style with supreme comfort, were recognized for their technical prowess, winning a gold medal at the 1862 Great Exhibition in Britain. The following year, they were appointed a supplier to the British Royal Family.

Upon returning to London in 1863, he opened the first "John Lobb" store on Regent Street. Later, under the management of the second-generation William Lobb, the brand expanded to Paris.

In 1976, when John Lobb became part of the Hermès Group, they began producing bespoke shoes at their Paris atelier (the founding family continues to produce bespoke shoes only in the UK). In 1982, they launched a ready-to-wear collection. In 1994, they opened a factory in Northampton, England, a place considered the mecca of leather shoemaking, and have become one of the world's leading shoemakers, designing and producing ready-to-wear shoes while inheriting the spirit and techniques cultivated through bespoke shoemaking.

2. These are JOHN LOBB 's must-read masterpieces!

First, we'll introduce six popular models that Isetan Men's is paying attention to, selected from the many masterpieces born throughout JOHN LOBB 's 150-year history. These elegant shoes, imbued with the brand's spirit, are indispensable when talking about JOHN LOBB , and are models that any self-proclaimed leather shoe enthusiast should remember.

1. CITY 2 | City 2

The first pair we'll introduce is undoubtedly this model. It's the "CITY2," a classic straight-tip shoe widely considered the "King of Straight Tips," an essential piece when discussing the brand. This stylish Oxford (closed-laced) shoe features a beautiful egg-shaped toe and utilizes the standard "7000" last.

2. PHILIP2 | Philip II

The "PHILIP2" uses the same "7000" last as the "CITY2." It is a flagship model of the "Prestige Line," which is the highest-end line within JOHN LOBB . Although it is a ready-made model, it incorporates details such as a beveled waist and seamless counter, reminiscent of bespoke shoes, embodying JOHN LOBB 's craftsmanship.



Isetan Shinjuku also carries the "CITY" and "PHILIP" models as limited edition items. These are the so-called "old" models that served as the basis for "CITY2" and "PHILIP2". While retaining the same details, they adopt the "8695" last, a slightly more voluminous, classic last.

3. LOPEZ | Lopez

The "LOPEZ" is a signature loafer from JOHN LOBB that can be worn with casual styles. The hand-stitched U-shape on the upper gives it an elegant look. It uses the "4395" last, which is specifically designed for round-toe loafers.

4. WILLIAM | William

Named after its inventor, second-generation owner William Lobb, the "WILLIAM" is an iconic model from JOHN LOBB , the originator of the double monk strap shoe. Featuring a functional design inspired by aviator shoes, it elegantly complements not only dress shoes but also casual trousers. It utilizes the round-toe "9795" last.

5. CHAPEL

These elegant double monk strap shoes, part of the prestige line, feature the semi-square toe "8000" last. Two buckles are positioned parallel to each other, following the smooth, flowing form. The narrow strap width gives them a dressy look.

6. 2022 Year Model "HENLEY"

To coincide with Saint Crispin's Day on October 25th, JOHN LOBB has been releasing a limited edition model called the Year Model each year since 1996. The design changes every year, but each one showcases the high level of JOHN LOBB 's technical expertise. Because only a limited number of pairs are produced, Isetan Shinjuku also carries a small number of them, but they are available almost every year.
The 2022 model (released in October 2021) is "HENLEY," a brand that many fans eagerly await every year.

The two lines are the "Classic Line" and the "Prestige Line".

JOHN LOBB 's ready-made products are broadly divided into the Classic Line and the Prestige Line.
The Classic Line is literally a line that adheres to the tradition of British shoemaking. It is a line of ready-made shoes made using the Goodyear welt construction method. Main models include: "City 2" and "Lopez".

In contrast, the Prestige line, while being ready-to-wear, incorporates designs typically found in bespoke shoes.
Key features include a beveled waist that improves arch fitting by deeply sculpting the arch of the foot, and a seamless counter that eliminates seams at the heel, achieving both greater comfort and a more aesthetically pleasing look. Main models: "Philip II" and "Chapel"

3. A thorough commitment to craftsmanship

JOHN LOBB offers unparalleled comfort and superior quality , along with a refined style. Its enduring commitment to quality and unwavering dedication to shoemaking, which has remained unchanged throughout history, is what captivates gentlemen worldwide.

A thorough commitment to leather
The beauty of these shoes, often described as "glowing from within," begins with the meticulous selection of high-quality leather. To avoid unnecessary processing of the leather, JOHN LOBB selects and uses only the finest parts of the hide. Furthermore, the materials used inside the shoes, known as auxiliary materials, are also made from natural leather. As a result JOHN LOBB shoes mold to your feet as you wear them. The shoes don't sink in too much, so the comfort they offer when new lasts for a long time—a pleasure that only those who wear them can truly appreciate.

About Museum Calf leather, a specialty of JOHN LOBB
Museum calf leather is characterized by its unique marbled pattern, often described as "like marble," and is a type of calf leather (cowhide) that has been dyed to intentionally leave unevenness. In the brown color, different shades of brown are visible, while in the black color, gray and purple hues peek through in places. Some fans even care for it using only colorless cream to preserve the unevenness.


This unspeakable pursuit of leather quality is a crucial element that forms the basis of JOHN LOBB 's high-quality shoemaking. 

Furthermore, the manufacturing process of JOHN LOBB infused with the spirit of bespoke craftsmanship, is truly impressive. Each pair of shoes is made through more than 190 steps, and meticulous attention to detail is evident in every single step. The fine stitching and the seamless counter, a testament to the hand-lasting process, are all evidence of this.

4. Choosing the right shoe last size

Isetan Shinjuku offers a wide selection of shoes in various widths and lasts. Since these are expensive shoes, choosing the right size is crucial. Understanding the characteristics of different lasts can be helpful when selecting your shoes.

About shoe lasts that create beautiful proportions

JOHN LOBB boasts numerous shoe lasts that are considered masterpieces. These lasts reflect the masterful craftsmanship honed through bespoke shoemaking, achieving a high level of balance between comfort and aesthetic beauty. Among them, the "7000" last, used in models like the "City 2," is particularly highly regarded.

A detailed explanation of the main features of the ending!

# 7000
This is a classic last from John Lobb, used in models such as "CITY2" and "PHILIP2." It has a moderate form within the brand's lineup, a slightly slender and elegant last. The well-balanced toe, neither too long nor too short, is something that any leather shoe enthusiast will admire.

#9795
This last features a round toe, specifically designed for buckle shoes. It offers a relaxed fit with a slightly higher instep. Combined with the shoe's shape, it gives a sporty and somewhat casual impression.

# 8000
This shoe last, characterized by its semi-square toe, is used in models such as "CHAPEL." It has a slightly long nose, giving it a sharp impression. In the case of "CHAPEL," this shape can sometimes create a little extra room in the heel.

# 8695
This last features an oval toe line, known as the almond toe. It's a classic last within the brand, used in models like the "CITY," the predecessor to the "CITY2." While it appears wider and shorter in length than the 7000 last, it's actually narrower than the 7000 last.

# 4395
A last designed for loafers. It features a moderate thickness and a slightly wide, rounded toe. The slightly longer nose gives it an elegant feel, despite being a loafer.

Staff members Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , commented on their experience fitting JOHN LOBB shoes.
Use this as a reference when choosing your size!

In the case of Iwata, assistant buyer of men's shoes
Foot shape type: Narrow. Foot length is equivalent to UK6, width C to D. While I often choose UK6 Church's and Anthony Cleverley, I usually choose UK5.5 size E width in JOHN LOBB , especially with the "#7000" last, considering a somewhat tighter fit.

In the case of men's shoe buyer Miyashita
Foot type: Wide. Foot length is equivalent to UK size 9.5, but feet are wide. I choose size 9.5 in F width at JM WESTON . My instep is not high. I choose UK size 9.5 in EE width at JOHN LOBB .

5. Goods that allow you to experience the brand's worldview.

Isetan Shinjuku offers a wide selection of genuine John Lobb shoe care products. In this chapter, a store stylist explains the shoe care products. Even if you don't own John Lobb shoes, we'll introduce some attractive items that will allow you to experience the brand's world, so please take a look.

"When you get your hands on a pair of JOHN LOBB shoes, it's really exciting to have matching care products from the same brand. Of course, there's nothing wrong with choosing non-genuine items. For those new to leather shoes who admire John Lobb, starting with accessories is a good idea."

"When choosing a cream or wax, you can't go wrong if you select one with the same name as your shoes. We'll also provide detailed instructions on care methods tailored to the type of leather in-store. Brushes, gloves, and other items are popular not only for personal use but also as gifts. We also offer gift wrapping, so please feel free to ask."

"These are genuine shoe trees that you'll want to buy along with your shoes. They fit John Lobb's shoe lasts perfectly and smooth out wrinkles nicely. They're available in a wide range of sizes."

 

"John Lobb shoes use high-quality leather, but neglecting shoe care will shorten their lifespan. With regular brushing and creaming, they can last for decades. Polishing them is also a good idea to maintain their beautiful condition."

Also, for those who don't have time to do shoe care or don't like polishing their shoes, if you purchased your John Lobb shoes at Isetan Shinjuku, our stylists will polish them for free. It will take some time, but if you bring them in for a regular check-up, we can also check the condition of your shoes, so it's a win-win situation.

 

6. Top 3 Customer Inquiries

Many customers at ISETAN MEN'S want to try JOHN LOBB shoes, and we often receive inquiries about this brand. Here, we answer these frequently asked questions in a Q&A format. Our staff are also available in-store to answer your questions, so please feel free to ask.

Q1. Can JOHN LOBB be repaired using the official service menu?

A1. You can apply through Isetan Shinjuku Store.
Please be aware that our services often require some time and incur a fee.

 

Q2. Does JOHN LOBB have a stain-removing lotion?

A2. At JOHN LOBB , we use a delicate cream when cleaning leather to avoid damaging it.
It takes time, but gently rubbing with a delicate cream will thoroughly remove old cream and dirt. This is the same care method used at JOHN LOBB 's directly managed stores.

 

Q3. I'm interested in JOHN LOBB 's bespoke tailoring...

A3. Bespoke orders are accepted at Isetan Shinjuku store, but by appointment only with our specialist staff.
For details regarding order pricing, design, etc., please contact us directly, as these vary greatly depending on the specifics.

View the ISETAN MITSUKOSHI LUXURY JOHN LOBB product list.

Related Article ▶ [ The Complete Guide] How to Choose Leather Shoes: Recommended Outfits for Different Occasions!

Click here for a list of featured articles in the "Comprehensive Guide to Men's Shoes Brands" series.

 

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