This is the [Complete Guide to Brands], a series exploring the appeal of popular brands available in the men's shoe section on the B1 floor of the Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . For our landmark 10th installment, we're featuring Berwick, a brand founded in Almansa, Spain in 1991 and celebrating its 30th anniversary last year. Sota Miyashita, a former top-selling salesperson on the same floor and now a buyer, thoroughly explains the secrets behind the brand's appeal, which is well-regarded for its cost performance. We'll also introduce new models using the "McKay construction" method that can be purchased for under 20,000 yen. Enjoy our extensive lineup.
*This article was published in March 2022, and Berwick products are no longer available at Isetan Shinjuku store or the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

High cost performance yet high specifications. Unraveling the secrets of Berwick leather shoes.

Berwick leather shoes are excellent industrial products.

Berwick is renowned for its excellent cost performance, and first and foremost, its factory is superb. Its clean factory, equipped with state-of-the-art facilities on a vast plot of land, allows for the procurement of large quantities of high-quality materials and supplies. The exceptional cost performance is achieved because production is carried out entirely in-house, from upper cutting and sewing to sole production and component assembly.

In particular, they have multiple state-of-the-art laser cutting machines that can cut leather without waste, and by practicing efficient and rational manufacturing methods, they are also promoting sustainability by reducing the waste of natural leather. With a speedy production system, they have the capacity to produce about 1,000 pairs per day, and as a result of pursuing production efficiency, they have been able to achieve this price. Berwick leather shoes can be said to be a very high-quality industrial product.

Premium European leather × Goodyear welted construction

Berwick uses leather from leading European tanneries such as Dupuy (France), Annonay (France), Charles F. Stead (England), and Picusa (Spain). For the outsoles, they use materials from Vibram (Italy), Harboro Rubber (England), which produces Dainite soles, and Rendenbach (Germany), which is famous for its high-quality leather soles. In particular, Rendenbach has gone out of business, but another German tannery has decided to continue the business, and Berwick will continue to process and use Rendenbach soles in-house as before.


Berwick leather shoes are primarily made using the Goodyear welted construction method. When we examine Berwick shoes purchased by customers at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , we notice that the insoles are firmly compressed and have ample cork reinforcement. The combination of high-quality upper leather, soles that can be used for different purposes, and the robust Goodyear welted construction that ensures long-lasting wear results in high-spec shoes.

A versatile design suitable for both business and casual occasions.

In terms of design, it features a "chunky" look with a voluminous sole and toe, following American and French casual styles. While influenced by British and Italian influences due to its Spanish origins, its appeal lies in its international look born from cross-cultural sensibilities.



Berwick shoes, which combine the best of both worlds, are popular for their timeless design that makes them easy to match with a wide range of styles, from business suits and sets to casual styles like jeans and cargo pants. Furthermore, because they are made using the Goodyear welted construction method, they are also recommended as an "introduction to high-quality shoes." Wear them well as your first pair of Goodyear welted leather shoes and gradually step up your style.

A must-have for your shoe rack! A detailed explanation of Berwick's popular models.

Berwick is unusual for a high-end leather shoe brand in that its main focus is on casual items such as loafers and plain-toe shoes. At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , the best-selling item is the tassel loafer. All of their loafers are very popular, but of course, their straight-tip shoes, which are worn with business suits, are also popular and have become long-selling classics.

Loafers are a popular choice and an essential part of casual style.

Tassel loafers | 4340SI07

---

These globally popular tassel loafers utilize the "08" last (shoe mold) specifically designed for loafers. The traditional last strikes a perfect balance, exuding a sense of luxury. The toe is subtly curved, creating a clean silhouette around the instep, and the sole is made of Dainite. The button-like grip on the bottom provides excellent slip resistance. The woven leather tassels serve as a design accent, subtly enhancing the luxurious feel.


Styling
Tassel loafers are a perfect match for outfits reflecting the trend of returning to classic styles. They can be styled in a wide range of ways, from casualizing office wear to going to restaurants. They also enhance jacket styles.



On the men's shoe Instagram account ( @isetanmens_shoes ), we have a video size guide for Berwick tassel loafers. *The video features a model without the woven design, but the last and sizing are the same.

"I tried on leather shoes, and I wear a size 27cm in Stan Smiths." is available here.

Coin loafers | 4456BCDI

---

These basic coin loafers use the "217" wide last, a casual style with a shorter toe and a more relaxed fit. The sole is a Berwick original injection-molded sole that combines the advantages of both leather and rubber. The rubber contact surface provides slip resistance while retaining the comfortable feel and breathability characteristic of leather.

Styling
These loafers, featuring moccasin stitching, are a versatile pair that can be worn both casually and formally. The styling is inspired by a sophisticated "adult Ivy League" look, with a polished finish down to the footwear.

U-tip | 4477BCVI

---

Berwick's U-tip shoes are manufactured using the Norwegian welt construction method, also used for mountaineering boots, resulting in exceptional stitching strength. The last is the same wide "217" last as their coin loafers, accommodating the wider feet of many Japanese people. The sole uses Vibram's Vibram Gumlite sole, which combines strength and cushioning, making them lighter than they look and providing excellent comfort.


Styling
The styling is inspired by an outfit for a date with your partner. It adds volume to a sophisticated casual look, and a peek of socks adds a touch of individuality.

Plain Toe | 4406ROVI

---

These plain-toe shoes use the "234" last, a round-toe design with a reduced toe thickness and a more roomy width for a casual look. The upper is made of coated leather from the long-established Spanish tannery "Picusa," and the thin wax finish makes the leather less prone to cracking and gives it a deep luster that brings out a sense of luxury. The sole uses a Vibram Gumlite sole, which is about half the weight of the same volume of rubber material.


Styling
Plain-toe shoes are incredibly versatile, suitable for both casual and formal occasions. They're perfect for a relaxed weekend shopping trip in your favorite outfit.

Straight-tip shoes, a favorite among businessmen, are also a must-have.

Straight tip | 5224BCVI

---

These straight-tip shoes utilize the "261" last, developed after studying Japanese feet to provide ample room around the instep. The lightweight Vibram Gumlite sole offers exceptional comfort thanks to its combination of cushioning and lightness.


Styling
A styling choice that perfectly complements a navy suit suitable for business settings. These slightly voluminous, formal shoes firmly support this classic style.

Want to know more? Why we recommend Berwick leather shoes

■A lineup of lasts (wooden molds) suitable for Japanese feet.

Berwick primarily uses the Goodyear welted construction method, combining world-class materials and superior craftsmanship to create authentic shoes that blend British classic style with the elegance of Italy and France. They also use the most suitable lasts (shoe molds), ranging from the "Millennial Last," which was developed after studying Japanese feet, to the slender and shaped "Slim Last," and even lasts specifically designed for loafers.


Millennial Last
The "Millennial Last" was developed after studying the feet of Japanese people, who tend to have high insteps, wide feet, and narrow heels. This original last, supervised by ISETAN MEN'S , is designed to provide ample volume to firmly support the arch of the foot, while prioritizing ease of wear and a secure fit to prevent heel slippage. The ball joint (the widest part of the foot) is designed to be wider, the waist and heel areas are narrowed, and the outer ankle is set lower to prevent rubbing. Please try them out.

Slim Last
The "slim last" is characterized by its thin instep and narrow width, creating a sharp, streamlined silhouette. By slightly elongating the toe box, this slender last produces a very elegant look.

■A wide variety of soles and comfortable insoles

Berwick uses a variety of soles, including leather, Dainite, Vibram, and Extralight, but they have partnered with Vibram to develop an original lightweight rubber sole. This sole, which is not only light but also combines flexibility, cushioning, and durability, is very well suited to Japan's unpredictable climate and road conditions.

Furthermore, the "McKay Series," which uses the McKay construction method and is introduced below, features a cushioned insole throughout, making them very comfortable to wear.

Must-see! The "McKay Series" offers the best value for money and is incredibly popular!

This spring marks the official launch of Berwick's loafers made using the Goodyear welt construction method. The Goodyear welt shoe lineup, which reinforces Berwick's strong point of being "suitable for casual styles," is perfectly aligned with the lighter clothing of the spring and summer seasons. The new models feature a combination of leather and rubber soles, providing excellent flexibility and making them easy to wear for both dressy casual and off-duty occasions.

Berwick's McKay-made leather shoes, which sit between Goodyear-welted leather shoes and sneakers, offer incredible value for money, costing less than 30,000 yen. Find your perfect pair to wear all season long.

Four recommended items from the "McKay Series" at Isetan Men's.

Related Article ▶ [ The Complete Guide] How to Choose Leather Shoes: Recommended Outfits for Different Occasions!

Click here for the latest information on men's shoes at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store ISETAN MEN'S.

Men's shoes Instagram: @isetanmens_shoes