Bespoke tailoring solves the unique problems associated with jeans.
She has cultivated the knowledge and skills to fully meet the demands of enthusiasts, and can also provide advice on key points to consider from a fashion perspective. This is perhaps the greatest appeal of tailor Mio Yamamoto. We asked her what she keeps in mind when working on bespoke orders.
"When I take an order, I pay particular attention to thoroughly understanding how the customer has dealt with jeans in the past and how they intend to wear the custom-made jeans."
In other words, everyone has their own way of wearing and enjoying jeans, and their preferences for silhouette and fit differ. Therefore, a perfect fit that is just the right size isn't always the best option.




"With 'LOT No.1,' you can freely choose from a variety of combinations: 12 types of fabric, 5 colors and 4 designs of leather patches, 3 colors each of buttons, rivets, and pocket lining (front pocket lining), and 19 colors of stitching. You can have endless fun with the silhouette and everything else, but considering the minimum price of 100,000 yen, we want you to wear them for a long time, so we don't recommend anything too outlandish as your first pair."
Featuring world-renowned Kaihara denim, and including denim from Italy's Candiani, all 12 types of denim are rigid (raw denim with starch). You can rest assured knowing that you can check the aging process that will occur through long-term use and repeated washing with samples. Another key point is that all fabrics are treated to prevent twisting, so they are less likely to shrink significantly.


"While typical rigid denim is said to shrink by about 2 inches, one of the features of the denim used in 'LOT No.1' is that it shrinks by a maximum of 1 inch. Since the fit is the most important point in bespoke tailoring, we conduct fittings during the basted stage while taking this shrinkage into consideration, and make fine adjustments after consulting with the customer. Using denim as the material, we aim to deliver a truly unique pair of jeans to each customer."
Another interesting detail is the thread used. Its high quality is a given, but it's also a premium thread specifically selected for its ability to glide smoothly over denim fabric, prioritizing compatibility with 12 different types of denim.
And apparently, 'LOT No.1' brilliantly solves that problem that's unique to jeans made of stiff fabric.

"Personally, what I find most appealing about 'LOT No.1' is its ability to prevent gaps from forming at the back of the waist when you squat. The gap between the waist and hip bones varies greatly from person to person, so it's difficult to find a perfect fit with off-the-shelf products. By taking measurements that take into account your sitting posture and incorporating that into the pattern, we can create an ideal pattern that fits perfectly whether you're standing or squatting. This might be the unique appeal of 'LOT No.1,' which is bespoke jeans."
*This article reflects the information available as of February 2020. This event has already concluded.
- Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor = Men's Authentic
Text: Junya Hasegawa (america)
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Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor = Men's Authentic
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