Wooden barrels are used for brewing sake, soy sauce, miso, and other fermented foods. Among them, it is said that there is now only one barrel maker in all of Japan that can produce the traditional large barrels that are bound together with woven bamboo hoops. Wooden barrels, in which the wood breathes, are home to a rich array of microorganisms that cultivate a deep and complex flavor. Over time, they have been phased out for reasons such as production efficiency, but now a younger generation of craftsmen is beginning to rediscover their charm! In order to inherit the exquisite flavor and the wisdom of their predecessors, we introduce the thoughts of the next generation who are breathing new life into wooden barrels, the perfect partner for fermented foods.

Yasuo Yamamoto, 5th generation owner of Yamaroku Soy Sauce
Yamaroku Soy Sauce, a long-established company on Shodoshima Island, is said to have been founded in the late Edo period or early Meiji era. The 5th generation owner, Yasuo Yamamoto, has launched the "Shodoshima Wooden Barrel Craftsman Revival Project" and is calling on other companies in the industry to revive the wooden barrel brewing method for soy sauce.

"Wooden barrels provide the best environment for microorganisms to ferment," says Yasuo Yamamoto, the fifth-generation owner of Yamaroku Soy Sauce. For centuries, wooden barrels have been used in sake breweries and then reused as fermentation vats in soy sauce, miso, and pickle makers, thus being passed down through generations. However, due to reasons such as production efficiency and hygiene management, the number of breweries that use wooden barrels has decreased. As demand has declined, the number of craftsmen who make wooden barrels has also decreased, and today, this traditional manufacturing technique is in danger of being lost.


It was in this situation that Mr. Yamamoto stepped up. In 2011, he launched the "Shodoshima Wooden Barrel Craftsman Revival Project." Mr. Yamamoto's goal was "to preserve it for future generations." When it becomes impossible to make basic seasonings in wooden barrels, it will be the children and grandchildren's generation that will face this problem, rather than their own. So, what can be done to prepare for that time? The first thing Mr. Yamamoto did was to learn how to make wooden barrels themselves. He ordered three new barrels from "Fujii Barrel Factory" and began a "wooden barrel craftsman apprenticeship" with carpenters on Shodoshima, learning how to make barrels using the new barrels. In 2013, they completed the first new barrels entirely by hand on Shodoshima.

All ■Main Building, Basement 1F = Foodstuffs/Chef's Selection

Since then, every January, Yamaroku Soy Sauce has hosted a week-long public project showcasing the process of making wooden barrels, where participants share their knowledge and skills. This year, the project grew to include approximately 120 participants from all over Japan. The participants included brewers from Shimane Prefecture (Morita Soy Sauce), Ishikawa Prefecture (Tanigawa Brewing), Fukuoka Prefecture (Mitsuru Soy Sauce), as well as culinary researchers, scholars, ramen shop owners, and many other diverse individuals, creating an atmosphere of great enthusiasm.

Furthermore, this project has led to a group of barrel makers who previously made small barrels (such as sushi barrels) forming an organization to produce large barrels! The "wooden barrel community" is slowly expanding. It has been seven years since Mr. Yamamoto's activities began, with the aim of preserving the techniques and connecting Japanese food culture to the future. Mitsukoshi Isetan will continue to support these activities!

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For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, B1F, Food/Chef's Selection.
03-3352-1111 (main representative)