"There's nothing better than the combination of British fabric and Neapolitan tailoring," proudly declares Luca Grassia, the third-generation owner of Luca Grassia, which held a bespoke tailoring event on September 2nd (Saturday) and 3rd (Sunday) Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor = Business Clothing. Katsumi Yabe, Executive Fashion Editor of the fashion magazine "MEN'S Precious" (published by Shogakukan), replies, "Neapolitan tailors don't use interlining, so fabrics of a certain thickness are a good match," and Luca Grassia's suits and coats prove that stiff British fabrics can be softened by traditional tailoring techniques.

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The third generation carries on the tradition of Neapolitan tailoring.

Welcome to Japan, Yabe. First, could you tell us a little about Luca?
I was born in Luca Napoli and have been involved with tailoring since birth. My life has been intertwined with the world of tailoring; I grew up surrounded by the people working in the workshops, looking at coats, suits, and trousers. I started working as soon as I graduated from school. My younger brother, Salvatore, did the same, and we now run the workshop together.
Did you learn the Yabe style from your father?
Luca : Yes, my father raised me. I won the gold medal in the young talent category of a tailoring competition in Campania when I was 30 (2015), and now at 32, I'm running my own company, all thanks to my father.
So, Yabe has both the skills to be a professional tailor and strong business acumen.


I understand that Luca Gracia, which is being sold at Yabe Isetan Men's, is a new ready-to-wear brand. Could you tell me about its features?
It's no exaggeration to say that no one else is making ready-to-wear clothing of this quality, Luca . Almost everything is hand-stitched except for the straight seams. I don't want to do anything particularly unusual; I just want to create something that is instantly recognizable as Luca Gracia.
Yabe, do you have a theme for this season?
Luca's theme for this fall/winter season is the "1960s." While both the suits and coats are hand-stitched, this season the focus is on an aggressive style.
Yabe 's black six-button double-breasted suit is sharp and stylish.
Thank you , Luca . This suit is based on a 1930s design, and the collar shape is in the style of Neapolitan tailors from the 1930s. I wanted the jacket to have a chic finish, so I kept the curve of the breast pocket and the gathers in the pattern subtle. The trousers are also hand-sewn.
Yabe , you mentioned earlier that you wanted to create a product that is instantly recognizable as Luca Gracia, and this piece truly conveys that value.


The highlights of the Luca double-breasted coat are the fabric, which combines five patterns in a patchwork style, the collar attachment that follows the neck in a way different from a single-breasted coat, the raglan-style sleeves, and the large inverted pleat at the back.
Ms. Yabe Ruka, could you please teach me how to tie a waist cord?
Luca , let me try it (and ties the waist tie). It's not a bow tie. The tie is long because I want you to wear it without fastening the buttons.
Yabe : I see. The larger collar is also for the sake of overall balance, isn't it?

NEXT>Click here for the interview video between Katsumi Yabe and Luca Gracia