Japan's Passion and Craftsmanship: The Aesthetics of Handmade Work | Watch Collectors Week 2026
Japanese-made watches are gaining increasing prominence in the watchmaking world year after year. More and more independent watchmakers from Japan are releasing their works, and their unique aesthetics and meticulous craftsmanship are being enthusiastically embraced by fans around the world.
Leading the charge is Hajime Asaoka, who manufactured Japan's first tourbillon. In addition to his own brand, he has also revived the now-defunct brand Takano, generating considerable buzz. Furthermore, Jiro Katayama of Otsuka Lowtec is also a figure to watch, having received prestigious awards.
Otsuka Lowtec: Full of handcrafted charm, unique products originating from a local factory.
As the name suggests, these unique watches feature eye-catching, distinctly "low-tech" designs. Otsuka Low-Tech is an independent watchmaker started by designer Jiro Katayama in his atelier in Otsuka.
"Small-sized watches are perfect because they require minimal materials and can be made even in a small studio. Plus, they're easy to make on a lathe. I didn't have a specific idea of what I wanted to do from the start; I just naturally arrived at watchmaking as I continued to work with my hands."
Katayama comes from a background as a car and product designer. He didn't specifically study watchmaking, nor did he attend a watchmaking school. He started making watches through social media and video sites.
"It's neither an object nor art. It's a tool, but it can also be an ornament. Moreover, when you wear it, it becomes a prop that expresses your personality. I've gradually become drawn to watches like that. They also evoke a sense of romance, something I want to own someday."
His body automatically moves towards what excites him. When he starts surfing the internet looking for a tool, he often finds himself wandering around the internet's vast ocean, drawn in by something else that catches his eye, and before he knows it, he's searching for ideas for watch designs.
"I often draw inspiration from fields other than watchmaking. I'm just making what I want. There's no grand philosophy involved. I'm fortunate that there are many people who share my passion," he says modestly, but in recent years, he has attracted attention from around the world, winning the Grand Prix at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG), often called the "Academy Awards of watchmaking" (2024), and being nominated (2025).
"I want people to experience the charm that can't be captured in photographs," he said, expressing his enthusiasm for a permanent exhibition at Isetan.
■Product Details (a) Size 7.5 ¥396,000
Stainless steel case: 40mm diameter / approximately 40-hour power reserve / automatic winding (b) Size 6 ¥495,000
Stainless steel case: 42.6mm diameter / approximately 40-hour power reserve / automatic winding (c) Size 5 modified ¥825,000
Stainless steel case: 40.5mm diameter / approximately 40-hour power reserve / automatic winding (d) Size 8 ¥990,000
Stainless steel case: 47.8mm (vertical) x 31mm (horizontal) / Approx. 32-hour power reserve / Automatic winding (e) Size 9 ¥17,600,000
Stainless steel case: 48mm (height) x 30mm (width) / Approximately 40-hour power reserve / Manual winding *On display only at Isetan Shinjuku store; not for sale.
Takano: A vision to deliver world-class luxury watches from Japan.
Takano, a Japanese brand often described as "legendary" or "phantom," exists for a mere 4 years and 11 months, from 1957 to 1962. Yet, it remains popular among modern watch enthusiasts thanks to its noble ideal of "creating world-class luxury watches from Japan" and the solid technical skills that enabled it to achieve this goal in such a short time.
Partly because he himself was a fan, Hajime Asaoka embarked on this revival. He leased the usage rights and brought the dormant Takano brand back to life in the modern era.
■Product Details Châteauneuf-du-Chronometer: ¥880,000 each
Stainless steel case: 37mm diameter / approximately 40-hour power reserve / 3 ATM water resistance / automatic winding *On display only at Isetan Shinjuku store; not for sale.
"Making a luxury watch as a mass-produced item is surprisingly difficult. Trying to strike a balance too poorly can easily lead to mediocre results. What's needed is a watch that appeals to everyone while retaining its individuality. Achieving both is a challenge worth taking on." In terms of exterior design, Asaoka is taking on the challenge of Zaratsu polishing for the case and domed dials.
"Zaratsu polishing is a skilled craft that requires manual work, but we needed a design that would beautifully showcase it."
When it comes to designs that showcase the finishing touches, Asaoka is a master. The case, made up of perfectly curved quadratic surfaces, forms sharp edges where the surfaces meet. The domed dial, with its prominent applied indices, also contributes to its aesthetic appeal.
"The cylinder dial, which curves towards the edge, cannot be polished by machine. Therefore, the key is how well we can achieve a sharp, glossy surface through painting. The yield is low, but we only use units that meet our quality standards without compromise."
Another key to Takano's revival is the increased precision of its movements. Asaoka decided to pursue the Besançon Observatory chronometer certification. This requires passing the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Certification) and demands an even higher level of precision, making it a very challenging hurdle.
"In the initial inspection, only 3 out of 10 watches passed. We believe the difference in temperature between the local area and Japan played a role. However, our watchmakers ultimately adjusted the process and increased the pass rate."
Currently, Takano is the only Japanese watch manufacturer to undergo chronometer certification at the Besançon Observatory. Many of the watches undergoing certification are ultra-high-end, handcrafted timepieces. Behind this undertaking, which is not done by mass-produced watches, lies Asaoka's extraordinary passion for creating "world-class luxury watches."
Thus, the "Châteauneuf-du-Velle Chronometer" was born, combining a beautiful exterior with high precision, acquiring a unique character unlike any other. It possesses all the necessary qualities to be called a "world-class luxury watch."
*Please note that the Isetan Shinjuku store will only be displaying the product and will not be selling it.
- Exhibition starts: Wednesday, July 8th
- Exhibition location: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 5th Floor, Watches
Watch Collectors Week 2026
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- Event period: 7
- Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 5th Floor, Watch Section
*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.
For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 5th Floor, Watch Department.
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