At Milan Fashion Week, Paul Smith presented its Fall/Winter 2026 men's collection, highlighting the brand's iconic tailoring and its rich history.

This season's theme is "Magpie Dressing." Inspired by the joy of collecting treasures, this collection translates the act of collecting stories and objects into clothing. Collecting has long been at the heart of Paul Smith 's creativity. In this collection, diverse and eclectic inspirations—from Paul's own archives to the worldview of British book lovers and even the bohemian aesthetic of artist Jean Cocteau—are reconstructed into a single style through Paul's unique perspective.

For this project, Paul Smith collaborated with Sam Cotton, the new head of men's design who has long been responsible for creative direction, focusing on "approaching things from a new perspective." The inspiration came from Paul Smith 's archives in Nottingham, which house approximately 5,000 garments created throughout his more than 55-year career. Looking back at iconic shows and campaigns from the late 1980s and early 1990s, Paul Smith 's signature tailoring and silhouettes are reinterpreted from a modern perspective. Throughout the collection, Paul's unique aesthetic of adding a twist to classics is evident.

In terms of materials, expressive fabrics such as Harris Tweed and Donegal are used impressively, bringing a British wit and warmth to the entire collection. The color palette is based on deep tones suitable for autumn and winter, with accent colors and archive prints effectively placed. The combination of prints, patterns, and materials creates depth in the garments. One of the most important sources of inspiration was the vast photo archive left behind by Paul's father. These are expressed as prints on shirts, adding a quiet narrative to the collection. Dot patterns, which are frequently seen in the archives, are also incorporated impressively, combined with sheer fabrics and shadows, while hand-drawn pear motifs give the collection a playful feel that is characteristic of Paul Smith .

Furthermore, in the meticulous process of transforming the garments from the inside out, the linings feature color schemes inspired by Japanese color theory, which Paul has long been familiar with. This attitude of imbuing meaning in the unseen details also quietly resonates with the act of collecting. This season's looks, inspired by the worldview of artist Jean Cocteau, have a certain "worn-in" feel. Sharing a love for everyday attire, Cocteau made shirts and ties staples, and Paul wears suits every day, their aesthetic sensibilities overlap in the sense of "uniforms rooted in everyday life." While influenced by sophisticated Parisian style, new sartorial details such as layered cuffs, sheer materials, and button covers are added, expressing the worldview of Magpie Dressing in a more three-dimensional way.

This approach is also evident in the accessories. Items such as bags, belts, and charms made from tumbled leather add a subtle touch of elegance and depth to the outfits. Paul, who values storytelling, expressed the collection not only through clothing but also through music and spatial design. A mural based on original drawings by Colin Burns, an artist who documented Paul Smith early designs in 1976, was displayed at the venue, evoking the brand's origins.

Furthermore, Paul Smith headquarters in Milan features trompe-l'oeil (optical illusion) effects, with playful "discoveries" scattered throughout. Wooden benches are adorned with prints featuring everyday objects such as scissors and coffee cups, expressing the beauty and joy hidden in ordinary things.

[SHOW CREDITS]
Styling: Ben Schofield
HMU: Matt Mulhall
Casting: Ben Grimes Casting
Production: Holmes Production
Music: Andrew Hale and Peter Smith

About | Paul Smith

Paul Smith is a leading British fashion and lifestyle brand. It values a positive attitude, curiosity, and creativity, and these values are reflected in all aspects of its design, from products and shops to collaborations. Starting as a small 3m x 3m shop in Nottingham, England in 1970, it now operates approximately 130 stores in over 60 countries and regions.

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