Yamaei Woolen Mills Co., Ltd., the originator of black formal wear.

What's interesting about the origins of Yamaei Woolen Mills is their black weaving, which is said to be the "originator of black formal wear." They excel at the technique of weaving black threads at high density to produce a "pure black," and that's how the mill started.

Finding "the present" from a vast archive.

The first thing that overwhelms you when you visit is the archive. The sheer volume of fabrics is enormous, filling up shelves. Apparently, many people visit specifically for this archive, and I too select fabrics from that mountain that fit current trends and customer needs. While they have some long-selling fabrics, Yamaei is also skilled at creating fabrics that are relevant "now."

We create highly functional, all-season fabrics that incorporate modern elements.

For this ISETAN MEN'S collection, we've selected a fabric based on a plain weave (pora) for the spring/summer season, but with a strong twist to make it usable year-round. The yarn count is standard, and the weight is suitable for all seasons. However, the key point is the firm texture achieved through the strong twist. We consulted with the production team to find the optimal solution for adding stretch or softening treatments. We feel a shift from the old-fashioned value of "strong = stiff" to functionality such as being strong but stretchy, wrinkle-resistant, and resistant to losing its shape. This is what's important in today's world.

A rapier loom that allows for original and customizable arrangements.

Let's talk a little about the machinery. Based on a rapier loom, it's a Yamaei original specification that has been modified for slower speeds, and the weaving is done meticulously. Because it allows for fine-tuned adjustments to colors and designs, it can accommodate even the most detailed requests.

ISETAN MEN'S suits made from fabrics found in the archives.

The archive contains many fabrics that have been trusted and used for a long time, and just looking at them sparks ideas. This "worth coming just to see" aspect is what makes Yamaei so interesting. In fact, we plan to develop suits for ISETAN MEN'S using fabrics selected here.

I personally visit Yamaei Woolen Mills Co., Ltd. every season, and we have meetings where we take into account seasonal trends and balance. We currently have suits made with Yamaei's fabrics available in stores, so please be sure to check them out.

"Strong, functional fabric." I think this is what true luxury that fits perfectly into today's lifestyle is all about. Stay tuned for the finished product in future posts!

In the next post, I'll share my report from the second day of my business trip, specifically from the "Textile Lab."

View a list of images from the "Yamaei Woolen Mills Co., Ltd." business trip.

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Tomohiro Inaba

Shinjuku Men's Department Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing Buyer

Since joining the company, he has held various positions in the dress clothing floor, including sales, sales floor manager, and buyer. He practices his own unique style by mixing various trends while basing his work on classic styles. In his private life, he also participates in an activity called "Suit Stroll," where gentlemen who love suits take walks in suits in places that evoke the atmosphere of Japan, enjoying dress fashion and deepening their relationships.