The stylists at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , who welcome discerning customers, are just as discerning themselves. We asked them, who possess extensive knowledge and insight, to share their knowledge, preferences, and deep knowledge to their heart's content. In this second installment, we're not talking about shirt enthusiasts, but "shirt XX enthusiasts."

A shirt is a key supporting player that significantly impacts the overall impression of a suit.

Teppei Matsuki works as a stylist on the 5th floor in the custom shirt department. He is affiliated with one of Japan's leading shirt manufacturers, but his career started with a well-known designer brand.

"I joined the company when I was 20. It was a fashion house that mainly dealt in high-fashion suits, and when I was there, the style was mainly monochrome, with slim-fitting suits, black shirts, and black narrow ties. I rose to the position of store manager, overseeing the local area, but at the age of 28, I decided to make a change and switched to a consulting firm. I was able to get involved in the planning of original suits for young people that a department store had launched because of my previous career experience, and after that, I became involved in the custom shirt business at Isetan Shinjuku."

The era was seeing a shift towards "Cool Biz," a movement to ditch ties and suits. The project Matsuki worked on at Isetan was "custom-made shirts for Cool Biz."

"When I was working in the store, I was only focused on the star items, jackets and suits, so I didn't really feel the importance of shirts," Matsuki frankly admitted. His task was to create an order system for "polo shirt material shirts," which were very popular at the time. Realizing he needed to learn more about shirts, which he was completely unfamiliar with, he visited a factory production line to study, which led him to change his previous way of thinking.

"That's when I first realized that shirts are items where even subtle changes in specifications can completely alter everything. Even millimeter-level changes in the collar stand height, collar points, and cuff length can change the look, feel, and even how well it pairs with a suit. Differences in the interlining create variations in the collar's appearance, and the thickness and placement of the buttons change how easily they're fastened and unfastened. The more attention you pay to the details, the greater the satisfaction you get—a satisfaction you can't get from off-the-rack shirts. Shirts are truly profound."

Since then, along with Mr. Matsuki's perspective on shirts, his customer service style has gradually changed.

"Many apparel sales associates feel that recommending the most sought-after seasonal outerwear or working for luxury brands is a status symbol and a source of fulfillment. But the sales associate isn't the main character; it's the customer. Since realizing that, I've come to appreciate the importance of supporting roles. It's embarrassing to say this myself, but I'm naturally a serious person who sees things through until I'm satisfied with what I've decided. I've come to feel that focusing my passion on shirts suits my personality."

The main piece truly shines when the supporting elements are solid. Mr. Matsuki learned that a well-fitting shirt is essential for a suit to stand out. This awareness, learned from shirts, is reflected in his own work.

I understand that both the shirt and I should remain in a supporting role.

The suit is what makes the statement, not the shirt. That's why the shirt is so important, and this idea is reflected in his own wardrobe. Because of his job, Mr. Matsuki always wears a suit and tie when he's working in the store. Looking at his shirt lineup, he has a very orthodox selection of colors and patterns.

"Half of my closet is filled with white shirts. The other half are either light blue or striped. The materials vary, but since they're dress shirts, there's nothing particularly unusual about them. I've tried various colored shirts, but I always come back to basic colors and patterns. Any other shirts? For casual wear, I only have Oxford button-down shirts. I really like the stiff, firm feel of that fabric."

The shirts come in four collar styles: regular, semi-wide, wide, and horizontal—a perfect selection. He mentions one pinhole shirt with a round collar, but says somewhat shyly that it's about the only unusual one. However, upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that each shirt has been slightly customized, with details like the height of the collar stand and the length of the collar points, indicating that he has experimented with various designs over the years.

"Since these are custom-made shirts, we can make various adjustments. However, we also know that customizing everything isn't always the best approach. The sample shirts we provide have undergone extensive trial and error during the production process, resulting in settings that represent the optimal balance. Changing them arbitrarily doesn't usually yield good results. Of course, we can adjust the cuffs and collar stand to suit your body type, and we are happy to accommodate such requests."

This spring, an "artisan" model crafted by a true shirt enthusiast will be released.

"Many customers who order shirts at Isetan are not so much interested in fashion, but rather in the importance of their shirts in making their suits look sharp. Most customers choose high-quality fabrics and order very basic shirts. The suit is the main focus, and they understand that the shirt is a very important item in that context. I completely agree with that now. Just as a shirt enhances a suit, I find it appealing and proud to be an important supporting player that makes my customers shine."

Matsuki asserts that his role is merely supporting one, helping customers choose the shirt that best suits them; the customer is the one who should be the focus. That's why he places such importance on carefully listening to his customers' wishes.

"My job is to draw out the customer's desires for a shirt they'll love through conversation, suggest appropriate fabrics and designs, and communicate the comfortable measurements to the factory workers. My daily efforts are to ensure that when they wear the shirt, they feel good, feel more focused, and that it becomes a catalyst for their confidence. I can't sew shirts, much less bespoke tailoring. I'm a stylist."

This spring, Matsuki's custom shirt line launched the "Artisan" model, supervised by Japanese bespoke shirtmakers. Both Yuta Minami and Masanori Yamagami are renowned as some of Japan's leading shirtmakers. This shirt, filled with their meticulous attention to detail, can only be made to order at Isetan Shinjuku. It has already attracted attention from various quarters, and Matsuki himself has high expectations for it.

"We've already received inquiries from many customers, and we feel that the shirts are attracting a lot of attention. We've carried Minami's shirts for some time, but this is the first time we've featured Yamagami's shirts. The other day, a customer came in who already owned 12 of Yamagami's shirts. I also met Yamagami himself, and I was surprised to learn that all the collar styles are named after mountains, and that many of them are from the Shikoku region, where Yamagami is from. He truly is the god of the mountains. He's a true shirt enthusiast."

The dictionary defines "mania" as having a different meaning from "collector," referring to "someone who is passionately dedicated to one thing." Indeed, both Yamagami and Minami could be called maniacs, given their passionate dedication to shirts. And in that sense, Matsuki was a shirt "stylist" maniac.

Incidentally, Ms. Matsuki also has another side to her: she's a "cat enthusiast." In the questionnaire she gave us prior to the interview, she wrote the following:

"I love cats. I love cats more than food. As a servant to my beloved cat, Maru-kun, I cherish the simple moments at home when I indulge his whims and affection. When I'm in my room, he always relaxes on my lap, and we sleep together."

Apparently, the main character of the Matsuki household is the cat.

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