Nigel Cabourn is a popular brand that develops rugged and stylish collections based on vintage military and outdoor wear designs. This time, we asked Yuji Endo, the brand's retail manager, to talk about the appeal of the brand's items, from new arrivals to classic pieces and even accessories.

View Nigel Cabourn's product list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

Brand History

A historic British brand that combines modernity with craftsmanship.

Designer Nigel Cabourn is also a world-renowned collector of vintage military and outdoor wear, and he runs his own British fashion brand. Since its inception, the brand has consistently utilized vintage clothing, fabrics, and details in its designs, gaining popularity worldwide.

From Nigel Cabourn's three proud collections, we're focusing on two lines this time!

Nigel Cabourn has three lines: the "Authentic Line," which is the most luxurious line in the brand and is designed and produced in the UK; the "Main Line," which has a stronger casual feel and utilizes Japanese production techniques; and "Liveblo," which is influenced by British workwear brands but has recently started to reflect a military taste. This time, we will focus on items from the "Main Line" and "Liveblo," two lines that match Japanese tastes in terms of both design and material, and are easy for beginners to choose as their first piece.

First, you should check out the "main line," which is based on vintage styles but also reflects Japanese tastes in a balanced way!

1) British Officer's Shirt

This Oxford shirt is based on shirts worn by British military officers in the early 1900s, and its most distinctive feature is its sturdy fabric.


Its durability has been featured in a certain fashion magazine, and in an experiment, it remained in its original shape even after 100 washes, with the buttons almost perfectly intact—a testament to its tough construction. Furthermore, the fabric, which is meticulously crafted from the thread stage, is entirely made in Japan.


Furthermore, the collar features buttons and buttonholes hidden on the underside of the collar tips to ensure it maintains its shape when a tie is fastened.


Furthermore, in today's era of oversized silhouettes, this shirt has a slim fit. This is because shirts from the early 20th century were treated as underwear, resulting in a tighter fit. Therefore, it is designed to be worn tucked in, with the hem of the shirt not coming out (see photo above). The pleats on the back further enhance the fit when worn.

[A shirt I've worn for 5 years, a personal item]
I've worn this shirt and washed it many times, but the buttons have never fallen off. I also enjoy the way the shirt's color has changed over time as part of its character.

View Nigel Cabourn's "Tops" at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.

2) ARMY CARGO PANT

These army cargo pants are made from durable 100% cotton. The waistband features suspender buttons, allowing you to attach suspenders to the pants.

These five-pocket trousers feature a high rise and wide thighs. The overall design is based on the classic US military M-51 and M-43 jackets, with British military magazine pockets on the front.


At the time, people also wore thick linings as innerwear, so the knee area was designed with action pleats to allow for easier movement. The laces on both knees are also said to be there to stop bleeding, and the fact that each detail of the design has a specific purpose is one of the brand's unique charms.


[My personal pants that I've worn for 5 years]


Over time, these pants will develop various aging characteristics depending on the wearer, such as wear marks and pilling, and their appearance will change over the years, which is part of their charm.

3) BASIC CHINO

This garment uses high-density domestically produced cotton fabric, treated with sanforized processing to prevent shrinkage after washing, and cold mercerization to enhance its luster, crispness, and durability.



Based on American military chinos from around the 1930s, these jeans feature a straight silhouette with a snug fit around the waist and ample room around the hips, perfectly matching current trends and making them incredibly popular. They are unwashed, so they will be stiff at first, but they will soften up nicely with wear.



Initially, the fabric was so dense that fibers would come out of the stitching. However, while retaining the quality of the fabric, Japanese craftsmen repeatedly refined the stitching through trial and error, resulting in the beautiful stitching we see today.


Also, while metal or urea buttons were the norm for button flies on vintage chinos at the time, we have deliberately chosen to use buttons made from corozo, which is a type of dyed and processed coconut shell.

[My personal pants that I've worn for 5 years]

The high-density, firm fabric may feel stiff at first, but as you wear them, the fabric will soften, especially around the waist and knees, making these pants a rewarding garment to break in.

View Nigel Cabourn's "Pants" collection at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.

"Livebro" is packed with items that embody Nigel's personal tastes.

1) FACTORY DUNGAREE-DENIM

It's no exaggeration to say that this is Nigel's signature item, as he frequently wears it in his private life. Designed with U.S. Navy overalls as its motif, this season it has undergone minor changes, such as the removal of the hip pockets and a change in material to cotton linen.


Nigel himself has worn the garment many times in his private life, and the practicality of the details has been refined year after year based on that experience. The denim used is a special one commissioned from "Kuroki," one of the most popular Japanese denim brands in Japan, and is available in two colors: indigo denim and green denim.


Incidentally, green denim is one of the fabrics that symbolizes the British military and is extremely rare. Nigel himself experimented with the pockets to make them easy to use, and the sides have a clip design so that the gloves worn by naval personnel while working at sea can be easily removed, and this design has been adopted from that.

2) SHORT FLIGHT JK-CHECK

Nigel Cabourn
Short Fly Jacket (Model Number: 80441330010) ¥37,400 □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 7th Floor Men's Authentic The Livero line features many designs that combine elements of vintage workwear and military with a street style essence. The name "Livero" comes from a now-defunct British workwear brand that Nigel loved, making it a collection that Nigel has a strong attachment to.


This short flight jacket, featuring a traditional British tartan check pattern, blends Nigel's favorite golf jacket design with elements of a deck jacket, particularly the cuffs, which are distinctly golf wear. The fabric is a lightweight cotton-linen blend, offering a soft and comfortable feel.


The arrow-like mark stamped on the rivets was used on British military issue items from around the 1940s.

View Nigel Cabourn's "Jackets & Outerwear" collection at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.

3) DUTCH PANT-RIPSTOP

These are 6-pocket army pants based on Dutch (Dutch) pants, which are essentially Dutch military pants from around the 1960s.


One of its features is the fabric, which is easy to wear during the spring and summer seasons.
Military pants from European countries typically feature shallow, gusset-less side pockets, and these pants follow that design. They have a comfortable, relaxed fit with a high rise and a very simple silhouette.

The waist features both a drawstring and belt loops, allowing you to choose the style that suits your mood and outfit. As a set, it's incredibly versatile, suitable for casual wear as well as informal meetings or parties.

The classic jacket from the "Authentic Line"

The Mallory jacket is a popular item every year in the Authentic line. The Authentic line has produced many beloved classics, and because the number of items available is not very large, it's a lineup that you should buy if you come across it.

We also have a great selection of miscellaneous goods! For gifts, we highly recommend pack socks and T-shirts!

First, if we're talking about popular accessories, we have pack socks. The appeal lies in the fact that each pair has a different design and construction, rather than being three identical pairs. They are mainly based on US military socks. They are sold in military-style drawstring bags, and this design makes them a great gift. These are men's socks, and should fit most people unless they have exceptionally small feet.




Incidentally, the pack of T-shirts includes one V-neck and two crew necks, and the box has a vintage-like design. All three have different fabric textures, making them enjoyable to wear. Another recommendation is Vans sneakers. Shoes can be a difficult gift choice, but Vans is a popular and classic brand that almost everyone owns at least one pair of, and the sizing is easy to understand. Cut and sew tops have also been a popular gift choice for a long time, and Vans offers a wide range of cotton cut and sew tops, from thin long-sleeved T-shirts to chunky sweatshirts, so you're sure to find something you like!

View Nigel Cabourn's product list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan online store.

See Nigel Cabourn's snaps here

Related article ▶ Men's Authentic Special Feature (Scheduled to be published on Wednesday, January 26th at 10:00 AM)

---

---

→ISETAN MEN'S Instagram is also updated regularly!