2022.04.08 update

[Explanation] Formal wear specialists teach you! Appropriate attire and etiquette for men attending a funeral.

Have you ever been suddenly asked to attend a wake or funeral and found yourself wondering, "What should I wear?!" When attending such a service, it's important to be respectful and show proper etiquette to the deceased without making any mistakes.

What exactly is the difference between the attire for a wake and a funeral/memorial service? I'm planning to attend after work, but what should I wear? This time, the formal wear specialists on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building will explain the appropriate attire and etiquette for attending wakes and funerals/memorial services so that you won't panic when the time comes.


  1. I. When should I wear it? How to choose the right mourning attire.
  2. II. What to wear when attending a wake and funeral/memorial service?
    1. Attire for a wake
    2. Attire for a funeral/memorial service
  3. III. Characteristics of Black Suits and Dark Suits, and Examples of What Not to Do
    1. 1. Black suit
    2. 2. Dark Suit
  4. IV. Key items to wear with a suit. What's the right answer?
    1. 3. Shirt
    2. 4. Cufflinks
    3. 5. Necktie
    4. 6. Shoes
    5. 7. Socks
    6. 8. Belt
    7. 9. Underwear
    8. 10. Court
  5. V. What other items should I bring?
    1. 11. Furoshiki (wrapping cloth)
    2. 12. Prayer beads
    3. 13. Handkerchief
    4. 14. Bag
  6. VI. What should I do in these situations? Frequently Asked Questions
  7. V. "Gift-giving customs and manners of the Mitsukoshi Isetan Group"

I. When should I wear it? How to choose the right mourning attire.

There are three types of mourning attire: formal mourning attire, semi-formal mourning attire, and informal mourning attire. The appropriate attire varies depending on one's position and the situation.

From left to right: Formal mourning attire (morning coat), semi-formal mourning attire (black suit), informal mourning attire (dark suit)


"Formal mourning attire," also known as a morning coat, is the most formal and highly dignified attire, primarily worn by the chief mourner or, in the case of attending a funeral, by those in a special position, such as a company funeral. "Semi-formal mourning attire" is attire similar to formal mourning attire and is a general type of mourning attire that can be worn in various situations. In cases where it is difficult to wear "semi-formal mourning attire," a more casual "informal mourning attire" that is closer to everyday wear may be worn. "Semi-formal mourning attire" is called a black suit, and "informal mourning attire" is called a dark suit.

Now, let's take a closer look at black suits and dark suits, which are the typical attire for attending such events. We'll explain the differences between them, as well as the proper etiquette and points to keep in mind when actually wearing them.


II. What to wear when attending a wake and funeral/memorial service?

Attire for a wake

In the past, dark suits were the norm for wakes to avoid giving the impression that one had anticipated the death. However, nowadays, there is often more time between death and the wake, so it's becoming more common to see people attending in black suits. Of course, dark suits are still worn, so it's best to dress according to the situation.

Attire for a funeral/memorial service

While black suits are generally expected attire for funeral attendees, some may choose to wear dark suits depending on the situation, such as to match the attire of other attendees.


III. Characteristics of Black Suits and Dark Suits, and Examples of What Not to Do

Here, we will explain the characteristics of each suit.

1. Black suit

Social suit ¥97,900 Kindwear shirt ¥13,200 Kindwear tie ¥14,300 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor Formal

This is a formal, plain black suit. Avoid glossy materials like silk and choose something elegant. A deep black fabric with a rich dye treatment is recommended. The jacket can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. The trousers must have a single hem if made from the same fabric. If wearing a vest underneath, it is generally made from the same fabric; otherwise, choose a plain black one.


Originally designed for indoor use, the black suit features a no-vent design with no seams at the back.

Incorrect: Mourning attire should ideally not have flaps. If a pocket has a flap, it is considered proper etiquette to tuck it into the pocket.


2. Dark Suit


Kindwear shirt ¥13,200 Kindwear tie ¥13,200 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor Formal

A plain suit in a dark color, almost black. For attending a funeral after work, a dark suit and plain white shirt during the day, and changing into a mourning tie before the funeral, will make it "semi-formal mourning attire."


Choose a fabric that is not glossy, such as charcoal gray or dark navy.

[NG] Fabrics with a design, even if plain, such as woven patterns or stripes.



IV. Key items to wear with a suit. What's the right answer?

We will explain the basic items that go well with each type of suit.

3. Shirt

From left to right:
Kindwear shirt "Regular collar/Double cuffs" ¥17,600 Kindwear shirt "Regular collar/Single cuffs" ¥13,200 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor Formal Luigi Borrelli shirt "Semi-wide collar" ¥39,600 □Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor Shirts and ties

For both black and dark suits, the standard shirt to wear with mourning attire is a plain white regular collar shirt with no sheen. Formal shirts with concealed buttons are acceptable, but plain white shirts are also suitable for business wear. For black suits, both single and double cuffs are acceptable; for dark suits, single cuffs are preferable.


[NG] Avoid wing collars (left image) and button-down shirts (right image) as they can look too casual.


4. Cufflinks

Left: Cufflinks "Onyx" ¥12,100 Right: Cufflinks "Black Mother-of-Pearl" ¥9,900 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Formal

When wearing a black suit and choosing a double-cuffed shirt, the cufflinks should be made of black-based stones, most commonly onyx or mother-of-pearl. The metal setting should be matte silver.


NG: Business cufflinks that are not primarily black.

5. Necktie

From left to right:
Kindwear tie ¥14,300 Social tie ¥9,900 Social tie ¥9,900 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor Formal

The basic tie should be plain black (plain satin). A tie with a fine weave pattern is acceptable.


[NG] Even with black ties, avoid those with large, conspicuous patterns. Always choose something simple.

6. Shoes


Left: Social shoes (straight tip) ¥36,300 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th floor, Formal

The basic style is a straight-tip, closed-laced shoe made of black calf leather with a single straight line down the tip. You can also pair it with a plain-toe shoe, also with closed lacing.


Not suitable: Materials such as suede and patent leather. Also, long-nosed, angular designs, boots, and designs with embellishments are not acceptable.

7. Socks

Social socks ¥1,980 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor Formal

Thin, plain black fabric with a plain weave. Choose the length (long or calf-length) depending on the situation.


Avoid: Items with woven patterns or small patterns. Also avoid short lengths that reach the ankles and thick fabrics.

8. Belt

Leather belt ¥14,300 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Formal

A simple, plain black leather belt is required. Casual belts are a no-go.



9. Underwear

Left: SEEK U-neck long-sleeved inner shirt
ML ¥3,850 / LL ¥4,400 View product
Right: SEEK U-neck short-sleeved inner shirt
ML ¥3,080 / LL ¥3,630 View product
□ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F, Underwear


For underwear, a thin, seamless type is recommended for a neat and streamlined look. For warmth, avoid sweaters and other knitwear and opt for thermal underwear instead.

10. Court

A knee-length Chesterfield coat in plain black wool or cashmere is the basic choice. Dark navy or charcoal gray are also acceptable. The key is to choose a dark color that is close to black.


[Not Recommended] Avoid leather and nylon materials, as well as down coats and casual designs. Also avoid light colors such as beige.


V. What other items should I bring?

Besides clothing, there are various other items you should bring. Make sure to check them beforehand so you don't panic in a sudden situation.

11. Furoshiki (wrapping cloth)

Left: Pedestal-type fukusa (wrapping type) 3,850 yen each □ Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 7th Floor, Kimono Section Right: Envelope fukusa (folding type) 7,480 yen each □ Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Formal Section

It is considered bad manners to take the gift directly out of the plastic bag or bag it came in. You should properly wrap it in a fukusa (a type of cloth used for wrapping gifts) as a token of your condolences. There are two types: a wrapping type and a folding type. Note that the wrapping method differs depending on whether it is a celebratory or mourning occasion.

12. Prayer beads

Left: Prayer beads ¥12,100 Right: Prayer beads ¥8,800 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Formal

Bringing prayer beads (juzu) to a Buddhist funeral is considered a sign of respect. Prayer beads come in various materials, including glass, sandalwood, and onyx. Choose a set that suits you.

13. Handkerchief

Handkerchief ¥2,200 □ Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Formal

A simple, plain white handkerchief is considered the most common choice.

14. Bag

Ideally, it's best not to carry a bag at all, but if you do, choose a compact one like a clutch or second bag that can hold just the essentials. Opt for a simple leather material.

 

VI. What should I do in these situations? Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some frequently asked questions regarding mourning attire.

Q: Are pocket squares and accessories allowed?
A: Accessories such as tie clips and pocket squares are not required. If you wear a watch, choose a simple one with a black leather strap and a thin dial.

Q: I will be attending a memorial service. What should I wear?
A: Up to the third anniversary of death, the memorial service is held relatively soon after the person's passing, so you should wear a black suit. From the seventh anniversary onwards, a dark suit is also acceptable.

Q: The invitation from the chief mourner specified "casual attire." What should I wear?
A: "Casual attire" refers to a dark suit. This is sometimes specified for wakes, funerals/memorial services, and other memorial services. If you receive a notice specifying casual attire, or if you want to wear a black suit to a memorial service after the seventh anniversary of death, you should check the host's attire beforehand and be careful not to wear something more formal than theirs.

Commentator for this article: Keiji Kashiwaya

In March 2011, she joined Kindwear Co., Ltd., a company that handles formal wear. In 2013, she obtained the "Formal Specialist Certification Level 1 (Gold License)" from the Japan Formal Wear Association. In March of the same year, she became a staff member in charge of the formal wear shop on the 5th floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , responding to the needs of each customer with her extensive knowledge of formal wear, and is highly regarded within the company as a reliable advisor.

[Related articles can be found here]
• [Explanation] What men should wear and bring to a wedding. A professional explains formal fashion etiquette.

V. "Gift-giving customs and manners of the Mitsukoshi Isetan Group"



This page provides a summary of customs and manners for various life events such as weddings, births, moving into a new home, and celebrations of longevity, as well as for return gifts, thank-you gifts for gifts received, and funerals and wakes .

Photo: Yuichi Tajima
Text: ISETANME'S net
*All prices include tax.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store at 03-3352-1111 (main number).
For inquiries via email, please click here.