Dress shirts, an essential part of men's suit styles, come in several collar types, and the best choice depends on the occasion. In this article, a stylist from the Shirts, Ties, and Seasonal Accessories department on the 5th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building introduces eight different collar types for men's dress shirts, along with the appropriate occasions for wearing them.
This article also explains how to choose a dress shirt, making it a must-read for job seekers and fresh graduates who are wearing a suit for the first time in both formal and casual settings.

View the "Dress Shirts" list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.

Eight types of collars for dress shirts! We'll also show you when to wear each one.

1. Regular Color

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The classic dress shirt style is the "regular collar," a basic collar shape with a neck opening of 75 to 90 degrees. It can be used in a variety of situations regardless of the time, place, or occasion, and is especially suitable for situations where cleanliness and trustworthiness are important, such as when meeting someone for the first time. Among them, a regular collar shirt in white broadcloth is an essential item to have in your wardrobe.

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In recent years, wide collars and semi-wide collars have become very popular, and the availability of "regular collars" has decreased. However, for formal occasions such as weddings and funerals, "regular collars" are still the most recommended.

2. Semi-wide collar

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This standard collar style is suitable for a wide range of occasions, from business and formal to casual. The collar opening is approximately 100 degrees, placing it between a "regular collar" and a "wide collar."

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This collar style is popular in recent years because it goes well with any type of suit and makes the V-zone look beautiful. If you're unsure which shirt to choose for the first time, this collar style is highly recommended.

3. Wide collar

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Alongside the "regular collar," the "wide collar" is a classic and representative British collar style. Characterized by its wide opening of 100 to 140 degrees, it can be worn in a variety of situations. Its appeal lies in the neatly open collar, which gives a clean and streamlined look around the neck. It's recommended to pair it with Italian-style suits, which tend to have a softer, more relaxed feel.

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This collar is also known as the "Windsor collar" because it was a favorite of the Duke of Windsor, who greatly influenced British fashion from the 1920s to the 1940s. It's perfect for creating a classic look.

4. Cutaway

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A collar style with an opening of 180 degrees or more is called a "cutaway" collar, while one with an opening of 180 degrees or more that appears almost horizontal is called a "horizontal" collar. Even when worn without a tie and with the buttons undone, the collar points do not spread out sloppily to the sides, creating a neat V-zone, which is why it is often used for Cool Biz.

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It looks great even with the top button undone, and it matches not only business suits but also casual jacket styles. Its stylish look also works well with jacketless outfits.

5. Button-down

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While the "button-down" collar is traditionally considered a casual style, its ability to fasten the collar points creates a neat and tidy look, making it popular for business casual attire.

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The button-down shirt is a collar style inspired by the British sport of polo, where players fastened the collar points of their uniforms to the shirt body with buttons. It was adopted by Brooks Brothers in the United States and has become established as an American style. It's recommended for business casual and casual business attire.

6. Tab Color

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The "tab collar" is ideal when you want to enjoy a three-dimensional V-zone. The "tab collar" and "pinhole collar," which have a button tab on the collar or a collar pin that can be passed through the collar points to tighten the collar, originate from British formal shirts where the tie knot is tied in a small knot. The "pinhole collar" has the head of a gold or silver pin visible on the front of the collar, giving an intelligent impression.

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The "tab collar" lifts the tie, creating a three-dimensional and beautiful V-zone, resulting in an elegant and dressy impression.

[Bonus Feature] Dress shirt collars that are useful in casual settings

From here, we'll introduce different types of dress shirt collars that are particularly useful in casual settings. Choosing the right collar for the occasion can create a stylish impression, so please give them a try.

7. Stand collar

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A stand-collar shirt lacks an upper collar and has a band-like collar around the neck. While similar to a collarless shirt, it is technically a different type of collar. It's a shirt worn without a tie and can be worn on its own or casually paired with a jacket or cardigan.

8. Narrow Short Color

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A narrow short collar refers to a short, small collar style. Also known as a short point collar or small collar, its small and understated appearance makes it often used in casual settings depending on the color and pattern. It's also recommended for casual formal occasions such as wedding after-parties.

View the "Dress Shirts" list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.

How to choose a dress shirt

If you're looking for the perfect collar style for your dress shirt, you should choose one based on the occasion, fabric, and neck size. Here's how to choose a dress shirt from each of these perspectives.

Choose a collar type that suits the occasion.

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There are three main occasions for wearing dress shirts: business, business casual, and formal. Recommended shirts for each occasion are listed below.

• Business : Semi-wide collar, wide collar • Business casual : Button-down, stand collar, cutaway collar, horizontal collar • Formal : Regular collar, tab collar

In business settings, wide collars and semi-wide collars are preferred as they convey seriousness and sincerity. For business casual settings such as Cool Biz (no tie required), button-down shirts are convenient. Additionally, pairing a stand-collar shirt with a jacket creates a relaxed yet stylish look.

For formal occasions such as weddings and funerals, it's generally customary to wear a regular collar shirt. For weddings and parties, a tab collar shirt can add a stylish touch to your suit.

Choose by the weave of the fabric

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Dress shirts come in various collar styles and fabric weaves. Since the weave affects the appearance and functionality, choosing a shirt with your preferred weave is a good idea. Here, we'll introduce broadcloth, oxford, twill, and dobby weaves.

■Broad
Broadcloth is a plain weave fabric woven with threads of the same thickness in both the warp and weft directions at a high density. Broadcloth dress shirts have a smooth texture and a lustrous sheen, giving them an elegant impression. They are recommended because they can be worn for a wide range of occasions, from business to formal.

■ Oxford
Oxford fabric is a plain weave fabric made by drawing two cotton threads vertically and two horizontally. It has a soft, plump texture and a slightly sporty look, making it suitable for casual occasions. It's often used for button-down shirts and is characterized by its wrinkle-resistant properties.

■Twill
Twill is characterized by its diagonal ridges created by crossing two or more warp and weft threads; it is also called a diagonal weave. It is soft, lustrous, wrinkle-resistant, and gentle on the skin. It can be worn in formal and dressy outfits.

■ Dobby
This refers to all glossy fabrics woven using a "dobby loom." They are characterized by regular, continuous, fine patterns, with stripes, dots, and geometric patterns being typical examples. Because dobby patterns are small and understated, they can be used in business settings as well.

Choose the size that suits you.

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Regardless of whether it's a dress shirt or a dress shirt, wearing clothes that fit you properly is important from both a comfort and appearance standpoint, so that you don't feel any discomfort such as "the neck is too tight" or "it's not comfortable" when you wear them.

When purchasing a dress shirt, be sure to have your neck, shoulder length (the length from the center of the back across the shoulder to the base of the thumb), chest, and waist measured. Ideally, the neck measurement should be your actual measurement plus 2-3 cm, and the shoulder length should be your actual measurement plus 3-4 cm.

Also, if you want it to look good when paired with a suit, it's best if the sleeves extend about 1 cm beyond the jacket.

Choose the collar style of your dress shirt to suit the occasion.

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We've covered the different types of collars for dress shirts, the occasions for wearing them, and how to choose the right dress shirt.
The impression you give to others can change dramatically depending on the collar and the weave of the fabric. Carefully consider which dress shirt you'll be wearing for each occasion, such as business meetings or formal events, and choose the one that suits you best.

View the "Dress Shirts" list at the Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store.