From lace-up shoes to slip-ons, from leather shoes to sneakers, a period of transformation is underway in men's footwear. However, ISETAN MEN'S believes that it is precisely in such times that we should find meaning in wearing leather shoes. How are you perceived by others when you wear leather shoes, and how do you feel when you wear them? Let's delve into what changes when a man's footwear is leather.

1. A new era of shoe selection as envisioned by a men's clothing and shoe buyer.

The relationship between men's clothing and leather shoes is entering an era of transformation.

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"The first thing you should invest in is shoes," said Masakatsu Ochiai, a renowned fashion critic. His reasoning was that shoes are less affected by trends, and feet don't change as much as body shape. Ochiai owned 100 pairs of high-quality shoes, most of which were brown shoes, and his shoe closet was kept in a condition where every pair could be worn by him at any time. Therefore, a quarter of a century ago, this statement would have been quite convincing.

However, trends change faster than ever before, and casual styles are becoming a global trend over dressy styles. In an era where you don't need to wear a suit to work, and even a tie is unnecessary, the meaning of wearing leather shoes is becoming ambiguous, and even the opportunities to wear them are becoming limited. Mr. Ochiai, mentioned earlier, said that "suits must be worn with lace-up shoes," but in an era where slip-on shoes with bare feet are acceptable with suits, our relationship with leather shoes is undergoing a major transformation.

Tomoyasu Tabata, the men's shoe buyer on the first basement floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building assumed his position this spring. He has dedicated 13 of his 14 years with the company to men's shoes, and even during that time, he has felt the changes of the times firsthand.


"Previously, there was a trend towards striving for higher levels of formality and luxury in leather shoes. However, nowadays, we hear many people saying they want to wear shoes that are easier to wear and more versatile. Even those who previously wore expensive, high-quality shoes are now shifting their mindset to prefer shoes that are easier to wear."


The very way we choose leather shoes has changed.

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On this day, Tabata was wearing a suit, but not with a tie; instead, he was sporting a turtleneck knit sweater. On his feet were Paraboot "Chambord" lace-up shoes with a U-tip design. Pairing a suit with comfortable rubber-soled shoes instead of formal leather-soled shoes is symbolic of modern business style.


"Some people think leather shoes are heavy and stiff, but actually, there are more and more brands and models that are lighter and more comfortable than before. Furthermore, with Goodyear welted shoes, the cork insole molds to the shape of your foot the more you wear them, and I think the process of them developing into a unique pair just for you is part of the enjoyment of wearing leather shoes."

Furthermore, at ISETAN MEN'S , we don't recommend shoes based solely on their quality; we believe that the most important thing is choosing shoes that fit the wearer's feet. Therefore, we are strengthening our support system to promote the ideal shoe selection.


"We carefully select shoe lasts that are well-suited to the foot shape of Japanese people, and we have many stylists on the sales floor who have obtained in-house shoe counselor certifications to ensure that customers can choose shoes that fit their feet perfectly. Our system, which reads not only foot length, width, and height, but also foot characteristics such as Egyptian and Greek foot types to provide the optimal pair of shoes, will be further enhanced next spring with the introduction of a digital scanning matching system."

Even with ample financial resources, salespeople often opt for reasonably stylish and comfortable shoes in the 30,000 yen range rather than expensive, high-end leather shoes costing over 100,000 yen, according to sales staff. You don't need the luxurious style befitting 100,000 yen shoes; 30,000 yen shoes offer a sporty, comfortable, and modern style that's perfectly acceptable for any dress code. The number of places where you used to need a tie has definitely decreased.


How to style new clothes and leather shoes

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With more young people breaking free from traditional fashion norms and shifting perspectives on work and lifestyle, everyone can feel the change in societal attitudes towards clothing. Tomohiro Inaba, the men's tailored clothing buyer on the 5th floor of the men's department, feels the same way.


"My own approach to choosing shoes has changed. I definitely wear less formal lace-up shoes than before, and I feel that the fundamental principles of how to match shoes no longer suit the styles of today. In an era where styles that were once considered 'should be' are now considered 'good enough,' there's no need to impose outdated values, and I think everyone is exploring new styles."

Inaba, who said this, was wearing a double-breasted blazer and polo shirt, with trendy wide-leg trousers. He was barefoot in tassel loafers, setting himself apart from traditional classic styles.


After seeing Inaba's styling, Tabata said:

"In an age where everyone wears sneakers, there's a good reason to still have the option of wearing leather shoes. Inaba's outfit could probably be paired with sneakers, but there must be a reason why he chose leather tassel loafers. For a sophisticated adult's footwear, leather shoes are the way to go, and they don't have to be ultra-luxury brands; they should offer a good balance of price and quality, and be comfortable to wear. I want to propose shoes that allow you to experience the true essence of leather footwear."

2. Five leather shoes that are leading the new era of men's footwear

The ultimate modern leather shoe that can be worn with a suit.

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This shoe brand is popular for its solid construction and excellent cost performance. The tassel loafers are made using a hand-sewn welted construction method that does not use rib tape, resulting in a softer sole and better comfort than regular leather shoes. The use of Dainite soles also provides excellent grip on rainy days.

"They're difficult to pair with slim-fit pants, but they go well with trendy wide tapered pants, and they add just the right amount of casualness to your look, so I personally love wearing tassel loafers all the time," says Inaba.

"Jalan Sriwijaya is a factory in Indonesia, so it has the image of being a shoe that offers excellent cost performance, but its greatest feature is the manufacturing method that is based on the authentic Northampton style. With the use of high-quality materials and reliable manufacturing methods, and the lasts that have been refined in recent years, it has become a very popular brand," (Tabata).

• Jalan Sriwijaya: Founded in Indonesia in 1919, this shoe factory originally produced military boots for foreigners. Later, the second-generation owner trained in Northampton, England, a mecca for high-quality shoemaking, before returning to Japan. In 2003, they launched their own signature brand, utilizing authentic hand-sewn welted construction techniques.

A classic casual leather shoe for a refined look.

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Spanish shoes are said to be a perfect blend of elements from the British and Italian shoemaking meccas. Mallorca, in particular, has long been a place where many shoemakers have honed their skills. Carmina, in particular, has a rich history and, despite being family-run, has stores in areas lined with high-end shops, such as the Paris Opera House and Singapore's Capitol Plaza Mall.

"Coin loafers have an American traditional image, don't they? They're a staple of casual leather shoes, so they're versatile shoes that can be paired with any style, whether it's jeans or a jacket. I think they're shoes that you can wear anytime, regardless of trends," (Inaba).

"The loafers here are characterized by their small heels, which are well-suited to Japanese feet. The soles are also made of rubber, making them comfortable to walk in. This kind of comfortable shoemaking, in a good way, is what makes Spanish shoes unique. You don't often find this kind of thing in traditional British shoe brands," (Tabata).

• Carmina is a family-run shoemaker that has been in business for six generations, founded in 1866 on the island of Mallorca, Spain. The second generation, Mateo Pujadas, introduced the Goodyear welt construction method, and the third generation, José Albaladejo Pujadas, cultivated his skills by learning from shoemakers in Florence, and in 1997, he established Carmina Shoemaker.

ON & OFF, all-weather comfort shoes

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"These days, lace-up shoes look better with a bit more volume. That's because the trend is to add a touch of unexpectedness to dressy styles with rugged or rubber soles, rather than thin leather soles. Paraboot is a popular brand with many fans in the fashion industry," says Inaba.

"I'm wearing them myself today. The Chambord is a long-selling model that represents Paraboot. The Paratex sole, which was developed in-house, has excellent cushioning, and the Lisse leather upper can be worn without worrying about the rain. It's a model that I can recommend as a first pair of Paraboot shoes," (Tabata).

• Paraboot: Founded in 1908 as a shoemaker for the Parisian upper class, the company developed rubber-soled work boots. In 1927, they registered the Paraboot name as a trademark, establishing their position in the market. At the time, rubber-soled leather shoes were rare in Europe, and their popularity grew with the spread of casual fashion.

Excellent value for money! Dress shoes from Naples.

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"For dress shoes, black shoes are more in vogue than brown shoes right now. Straight-tip or punched cap-toe shoes with contrasting toe caps are classic shoes that every gentleman should own. They used to be formal or business shoes, but nowadays, I think it's better to wear them to deliberately tighten up a casual suit style," says Inaba.

"Naples has many shoe workshops, but among them, Revros is a highly reliable factory that has even produced original brands for Isetan Men's in the past. The leather soles, which have channel stitching covering the bottom of the shoes, are beautifully finished, and every detail is carefully crafted," (Tabata)

• Revros is a brand exclusively available at Mitsukoshi Isetan, produced by a prestigious factory in Naples, Italy. Through on-site guidance by Japanese technicians, they have jointly developed shoe lasts tailored to the foot shape of Japanese people. Using Italian leather, they offer exceptional products with meticulous attention to detail at a high cost performance.

The look of leather shoes, the comfort of sneakers.

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This popular shoe brand combines the look of leather shoes with the comfort of sneakers. Masayoshi Hoshiba, a renowned fashionista, oversees the design, while Hiroshi Tsubouchi, a shoe designer known for his work with brands like "Hiroshi Tsubouchi," provides technical support.

"The plain-toe shoes I wear now are more rounded than slender. A slightly voluminous form suits me. Rugged soles and rubber soles, in particular, are a must-have element for the new dress style. I think they're definitely the right shoes for business casual, and if you look closely, the subtle design of the brown edge on a black shoe is also stylish," (Inaba).

"This plain-toe shoe is the third generation of WH's plain-toe line. It combines the rounded and voluminous design of the second-generation plain-toe shoe, the 0006, with the design of the first-generation plain-toe shoe, the 0001. The use of a cup insole makes it comfortable to put on, and this thick sole is made of sponge, making it exceptionally lightweight," (Tabata).

• Double H is a shoe brand created by Yoshimasa Hoshiba, editor-in-chief of the web magazine "FORZA STYLE" and a fashion director, and shoe designer Hiroshi Tsubouchi. Based on dress shoes, it incorporates trendy elements and uses a cup insole to achieve the comfort of sneakers, sending out "shoes you want to wear now" to the world.

3. What do female employees at Mitsukoshi Isetan really think about what makes a good impression when paired with leather shoes for business attire?

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