2018.09.18 update

[Special Feature] Three shoe experts discuss the true value of ECCO

Currently, the Danish brand ECCO is gaining worldwide attention. To reveal its appeal, we've invited people who actually use ECCO products to share their thoughts. Toshiaki Imae, a player for the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles, Miyako Takayama, who has recently started working as a writer, and Yukihiro Sugawara, editor-in-chief of the shoe magazine "LAST," who just visited the company's headquarters and factory, all shared their experiences in detail.

Introducing "Vitrus," a model symbolizing the new ECCO .


ECCO is a prestigious and long-established brand of comfort shoes. Founded in Denmark in 1963, this shoemaker now employs 20,000 people and operates in 90 countries worldwide, becoming an undeniable global brand. The key to its success lies in the anatomical structure and direct injection molding process, realized by founder Karl Toosby with the vision of "creating shoes that feel like gloves."


Having secured an unshakeable position, ECCO has been undergoing a new evolution in recent years, and this is steadily bearing fruit. As proof of this, it is currently one of the most vibrant brands at Isetan Men's.

Adding a touch of "comfort" to its stylish appearance, this shoe is sure to appeal even to those who love classic footwear. The "Vitrus," adorned in a hand-dyed burgundy color and available exclusively at Isetan Men's and ECCO's directly managed stores this autumn, is a model that symbolizes the reborn ECCO .


Left: Boots ¥59,400 Middle & Right: Shoes ¥54,000


The aforementioned "Vitrus" is part of ECCO 's "ECCO Vitrus International Agenda" project, which will launch this fall. In a truly unique endeavor, ECCO has set up "Vitrus" models with different uppers in seven major cities, including its home base of Copenhagen, as well as Shanghai and New York. As the name "Agenda" suggests, the seven models represent a week, and will be launched sequentially in each city over the course of a week, starting in Tokyo on Monday, September 24th (with an early release at Isetan Men's from September 19th).

Only the Tokyo model will be available in stores, for example, in Tokyo. This means that if you wanted to collect all the models, you would have to visit ECCO stores in seven different cities. The shoes come in a special box containing shoe trees, replacement shoelaces, and a shoe bag, and are limited to 500 pairs (80 of which are Japan models).

What were the reactions of the three to "Vitrus"?


Vol.1 Toshiaki Imaie (Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles) | I think these are the dress shoes of the future


Toshiaki Imae, who was entrusted with the cleanup spot shortly after the season began and made a firm presence in the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles, including being selected for the All-Star Game by the manager, has chosen ECCO as the cleanup hitter for his shoes.

--I hear that golf was the reason you started using ECCO products, Ms. Imaie.

Imaie : Yes. A friend recommended them to me, and when I tried them on, I was blown away. They fit so well it was like I wasn't even wearing shoes. Maybe it's thanks to ECCO (laughs), but I achieved my best score in four years, a 74.

—And so, ECCO was added to my on-duty wardrobe.

As a professional baseball player, Imaie needs to maintain a certain level of decorum when appearing in public. On the other hand, I also want to avoid putting too much strain on my body. This is especially true during the season. I've worn classic dress shoes with leather soles, but they have their drawbacks. Sneakers, however, are too casual. ECCO shoes were the perfect solution, offering the best of both worlds.


—I always assumed that official attire would be provided for public events.

During the season, Imaie mostly travels in casual clothes, in a business casual style.

--What does a moderate level of attire mean to you, Imaie-san?

Imaie: I tried a lot of different things, but in the end I've settled on simple clothes. Most of my wardrobe is plain black or navy. Well, part of it is to hide my extremely thick thighs (laughs). I'm not just saying this to be polite, I really do rely on Isetan. Everything I'm wearing today is from Isetan. I was so impressed with the stretchiness of the pants that I bought two pairs in different colors.


──So ECCO caught Mr. Imaie's eye, is that right?

While retaining Imaie's classic design, it also possesses the minimalist presence characteristic of Scandinavian design. The fact that it's hand-dyed is also surprising. A fusion of cutting-edge technology, craftsmanship, and tradition. I think this is what dress shoes of the future will be like. Of course, the comfort is impeccable. The fit and cushioning are superior to any other footwear. See, (shaking his foot from side to side) even when I move it this much, the sole still sticks to it.


Shoes: 54,000 yen


Speaking of Imaie, in addition to his achievements as a player, we can't overlook his active involvement in social contribution. From the Smile Project, which invites children from orphanages to his games, to his visit to Iwaki City, a disaster-stricken area, we are truly impressed.

Imaie's initial motivation stemmed from seeing professionals supporting underprivileged children when he was a child, which he found admirable. However, everything has been connected to others. His activities in Iwaki City began because a team official was from the area, and his wife's understanding and support have also been crucial to these activities.

--While the leather tanning process, which uses very little water, and the wastewater treatment system are good examples, ECCO is actually a leading company in the industry that takes the initiative in addressing environmental issues. I think there are similarities between ECCO and Mr. Imaie.

Imaie: Putting aside my own feelings, I believe that a person's way of life and the corporate culture naturally come through, and I can see that stance coming from Echo.




Vol.2 Miyako Takayama (Model, Actress, Talent) | ECCO is a sneaker for adults


Her lifestyle, which is kind to both mind and body, has been attracting attention, and her second book, "Miyako Takayama's Beauty, Food, and Appearance 2: 'Daily Little by Little' Continues" (published by Futabasha), was just released on August 31st. And right at the feet of the truly LOHAS-minded Ms. Takayama, there was ECCO .


—I hear you've been wearing them for about two years already.

I rotate between Takayama leather sneakers and 7.5cm heeled pumps. Before, heels were painful for me. I had to endure wearing them. I realized then that comfort and style can go hand in hand. When I first wore them, they were so soft and fluffy, I was like, "What is this?" The form is very simple, but they feel like high-tech sneakers.


—What kind of shoes were you wearing before that?

Takayama: When I was in my twenties, I was really focused on design and brands.

—What I realized after wearing them for a while is the quality of the material.

Takayama: Having aged a bit, I've only recently come to appreciate the charm of materials. It's not just fabrics, but good leather develops character with use. I'm thoroughly enjoying the process of watching it develop over time.

—And he has a great presence too.

Takayama fashion is inherently limited in terms of taste and age. ECCO is all-around versatile. It has universality. It's an essential brand for those aiming for a grounded style.


—So you aim for a grounded style. That means you've gained confidence in yourself and no longer feel the need to chase trends, right?

Maybe I just couldn't keep up with the Takayama trend (lol).

-- (laughs). How do you wear them?

Takayama's basic style is simple, but if everything becomes too simple, it can feel incomplete. On days when I wear ECCO shoes, I like to have fun with my clothes and accessories. A balance between sweet and edgy is important. With ECCO , I deliberately choose feminine items like dresses. Matching my accessories in silver gives a more refined impression.


Shoes: 54,000 yen


--How about men's items? This "Vitrus" is an exclusive item for Isetan Men's.

Takayama was so surprised he asked if they had a ladies' version (laughs). Bordeaux suits Japanese people well. It's not as flashy as red, and not as ordinary as brown. It's versatile enough to go with denim, cargo pants, and suits. If I were a man, I'd wear it with really casual clothes because of its elegant design. I'd want to use it as an accent to a vintage T-shirt or jeans.

--Ms. Takayama's lifestyle is something many people admire, and looking at the various things you've shared about your daily life on social media and in your books, it seems like you were destined to come across ECCO .

In my twenties, I really led a lazy life. Before I knew it, I had gained 10 kilograms and my skin was in terrible condition. That's when I received an offer to participate in the Kagawa Marugame International Half Marathon. I'm not bragging, but my physical education report card was always a "2" throughout middle and high school. I was the kind of kid who would fall over at the start of a race, like something out of a cartoon (laughs). I knew that if I pushed myself too hard, I would fail, so I gradually increased my pace while enjoying myself and staying within my limits. And I managed to finish the race. Having gotten a taste for it, I eventually achieved a record of 3 hours and 41 minutes in a full marathon.


Since the Takayama Marathon became a part of my life, my body shape has clearly changed. I also started to re-evaluate my diet. When I started waking up early and making breakfast, my skin became clearer and my constipation was cured. My mind and body became healthier, and I started to think about my own style in terms of makeup and fashion. For someone like me, ECCO was definitely the perfect brand.



Vol.3 Yukihiro Sugawara (Editor-in-Chief of shoe magazine 'LAST') | The claim that everything except the shoelaces is made in-house was not just for show.


Yukihiro Sugawara, one of the few fashion journalists with a critical spirit and editor-in-chief of the shoe magazine "LAST," ventured into the heart of ECCO .


Sugawara
went on a reporting trip in April. I visited a tannery in Amsterdam, Netherlands, then traveled to Denmark via Germany to visit ECCO headquarters and design center, and from there to a shoe factory in Portugal. All in one week. I admit it was a pretty hectic schedule (laughs).

--Thank you for your hard work. Today, as a journalist who has actually set foot in the factory, we would like you to tell us about the appeal of ECCO .

Sugawara: Why don't you try them on first? The best way to get to know ECCO is to try them on.

──(I was amazed by the sound of air escaping, a sound unique to shoes that don't leave a single gap. And the moment I tightened the shoelaces and stood up, the words that came out of my mouth were...) It's simply amazing. The compliment of walking on clouds seems to have been made for these shoes. You can feel that you are enveloped in all directions, and that the contours of the soles of your feet are covered without fail.

Sugawara: That's the power of FluidForm, a manufacturing method we devised ourselves based on direct injection. It seems that many people think it's like a sneaker, but the design and structure are completely different from vulcanized sneakers, which are well known for that method. Both methods use a mold to vulcanize and press-bond the upper and sole, which are stretched onto a shoe last, but while the sole of a vulcanized shoe is already a finished product, the sole of a FluidForm shoe is liquid. In other words, the sole is also made from scratch during this sole attachment process. If you want to reproduce the bottom shape of a shoe last, there is no better manufacturing method than FluidForm.


—That's where anatomical structure comes into play.

Sugawara: Yes. The golden ratio of the shoe last was perfected after taking countless foot molds. The anatomical structure is the "invention" that made ECCO known to the world as a leader in comfort shoes, and the fluid form is a manufacturing method that optimizes this structure. It's truly a brand with "underlying" strength (laughs). ECCO doesn't compromise when it comes to this optimization. The same goes for the leather. As I briefly mentioned at the beginning, ECCO is a company that owns its own tannery.

—I doubt there are many other shoemakers in the world that also operate a tannery besides ECCO .


A production background that overturns the concept of shoemaking.


Sugawara: The first tannery was established in Portugal in the late 1980s. And now, they have more than one base. Starting with Indonesia, they established a factory in Thailand three years later. Furthermore, they now own four factories in the Netherlands and China.

──What were your impressions of visiting the factory?

Sugawara: This also applies to shoe factories, but first of all, they are overwhelmingly huge. I thought it was no surprise that their products are sold in 90 countries around the world. But what impressed me even more was how clean the factory was, with not a speck of dust to be seen. Everything is set up so that the craftsmen can work comfortably.


-- I hear ECCO 's tannery division is among the top five in the world.

Sugawara: That seems to be the case. In fact, we supply about half of our total production to other brands. I can't reveal their names, but our customer list includes a long list of renowned luxury brands. So, what is the strength that even luxury brands have had to acknowledge? It lies in cutting-edge technology backed by our capital. Leather that changes color with temperature, transparent leather, indigo blue leather using a newly established dyeing technique... Leather that far surpasses conventional standards is being developed day and night. Of course, our authentic collections, such as so-called calf leather, are second to none.

—How was that possible?

Sugawara's secret is located in the development factory within the company's headquarters in Denmark. While it has the equipment and personnel to function as a factory, as its name suggests, it's actually a sample maker—a lab. I'd say there were easily 100 staff members working there.


—That's larger in scale than some factories.

Sugawara (nodding): The priority of being able to create materials from scratch is immeasurable. You exclaimed in admiration when you tried them on, but this wouldn't be possible with off-the-shelf leather. ECCO has established a system to develop everything in-house in order to maximize the potential of its anatomical structure. Now, everything except the shoelaces is made in-house. This system not only improves the precision of manufacturing but also clarifies accountability.

—From a design perspective, Vitrus cannot be overlooked. One example is the hand-painting.

Sugawara: At the factory in Portugal that I visited, several local women were handling this process. Their technique was truly remarkable; if you only saw that part, it would be no different from a handmade shoe workshop in Italy. The brushstroke-like painting is perfectly suited to these country-style boots.

Boots ¥59,400


—Since these are mass-produced items, uniformity is required even in the hand-painting. What are your thoughts on that?

Sugawara: That's where the existence of a laboratory becomes crucial. It's likely that one of the world's leading laboratories manages the recipe.

—Another feature is the shoe last. The smart, rounded shape is simply modern.

Sugawara: I was truly impressed by this, but they have a last maker at their headquarters—a craftsman who makes the wooden lasts that are essential to shoemaking. It's common knowledge in Europe that the closer the designer and the last maker are, the better, but having an in-house last maker is quite rare.


—The "Artisan" shoes you're wearing today were also recommended by you, Mr. Sugawara, right?

Sugawara: This model features leather wrapped around the side of the sole, then polyurethane is injected and molded. In addition to the shank, the sole has a built-in lattice-like frame. This not only prevents twisting but also provides shock absorption. I think it's a unique shoe that goes into the structure itself.


Movie & Photo: Iori Matsudaira
Text: Kei Takegawa

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