2018.02.13 update

[Feature] Understanding the Appeal of JOHN LOBB by Getting to Know Their Classic Models

(Updated on 2022.12.21)

There are many items that are considered staples in men's fashion, but the number of "masterpieces" that are passed down through generations of gentlemen is significantly smaller. The "high-end" section of men's shoes on the first basement floor of the Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building is a place where world-class masterpieces gather together. Among them, JOHN LOBB reigns as one of the world's top shoe brands.

Since its founding in 1866, this brand has built an unshakeable position through its history and tradition of creating bespoke shoes for royalty, nobility, and VIPs around the world, and through the existence of numerous renowned masterpieces. As a member of the Hermès Group, it is supplied with the finest leather, and it is well known that it is a top maison for authentic shoes, both bespoke and ready-to-wear.

This time, under the title "Understanding the Charm of JOHN LOBB Through Classic Models," Akira Kurashima of John Lobb Japan will explain the basic models that are considered masterpieces.

  1. The ever-popular "CITY 2" is available to choose from with
  2. JOHN LOBB , currently popular, as chosen by shoe experts.
    1. 1. The "PHILIP 2" features a striking and glamorous design.
    2. 2. LOPEZ: A coin loafer loved across generations.
    3. 3. When it comes to double monk strap shoes, the "WILLIAM" model is a must-have.
    4. 4. "CHAPEL" is made from a single piece of leather.

►Click here for the John Lobb "Complete Brand Guide" feature article

The ever-popular "CITY 2" is available to choose from with

When choosing shoes, the most important thing is "how to determine the right size." At JOHN LOBB , size refers to foot length, and width refers to foot circumference; they don't measure using the general foot width.

"Width refers to the circumference of the foot, not the width of the foot. A wider width, such as D to E, or E to EE, will make the shoes easier to wear, but that doesn't mean a better fit; it just means there's more room. Size and width are just guidelines, but the most important thing is the 'overall fit.' I recommend trying on shoes of the appropriate size and width to check the fit." (Kurashima)

In recent years, the foot shape of Japanese people has been said to be becoming more similar to that of Westerners compared to people from other Asian countries such as China and South Korea. Most Japanese people have a foot shape that fits within an E (single E) width, but many Japanese people have slender heels, so heel fit is a key factor in comfort.

JOHN LOBB
"CITY 2" 195,800 yen View product

Once you know your size, the next step is choosing a model. At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, 70-80% of customers who purchase JOHN LOBB shoes buy basic models. In particular, the long-selling classic models are popular for a "first John Lobb" purchase, and the "CITY 2" is a masterpiece with many repeat customers.

"As the name 'CITY' suggests, it's a representative shoe favored by people in industries like finance, where trustworthiness is essential. The CITY 2 is a classic straight-tip shoe within JOHN LOBB lineup, and it's the most serious design using the 7000 last (shoe mold)." (Kurashima)

At Isetan Shinjuku, the "CITY 2" is the only model available in three widths (D, E, and EE). It's an iconic model in JOHN LOBB lineup, and I highly recommend the "CITY 2" as your first pair. While it has a sleek silhouette, the 7000 last is designed for comfortable wear, so you should enjoy a more relaxed fit than it looks.

JOHN LOBB , currently popular, as chosen by shoe experts.

For this project, we asked Mr. Kurashima of John Lobb Japan to select the " JOHN LOBB that is currently popular with customers" from the lineup available at Isetan Shinjuku.

The biggest appeal of JOHN LOBB is the quality of the leather. They feel firm when new, but after wearing them for two to three years, the leather's resilience allows them to mold to your feet. Because of the high quality leather, they are resistant to losing their shape and become a perfect fit for your feet.

1. The "PHILIP 2" features a striking and glamorous design.

The "PHILIP 2" is a flagship model of JOHN LOBB 's Prestige Line. The Prestige Line is a popular series that takes traditional British craftsmanship a step further, showcasing the expertise cultivated through JOHN LOBB 's bespoke approach.

"One of the charms of the 'PHILIP 2' is its luxurious use of leather, incorporating bespoke techniques such as a beveled waist and seamless back into ready-made shoes, and even finishing the quarter with a single piece of leather. It uses the same last as the 'CITY 2,' but uses softer leather, so you can enjoy a soft fit right from the start. If you want a sturdy fit, go for the 'CITY,' and if you want softness, go for the 'PHILIP 2.' The fine perforations are in a single row, so it's not overly ornate." (Kurashima)

John Lobb
"PHILIP 2" 277,200 yen View product

Sato says, "The biggest appeal of the PHILIP 2 is its high-quality feel, achieved by having no seams on the back and a cap toe with delicate perforations. The sole is three-dimensional and provides a snug, enveloping fit, and it's a shoe that you can enjoy even more as you wear it in. As it's a shoe from the prestige line, it's also nice that this model comes with shoe trees."

"You can never have too many pairs of PHILIP 2 shoes, including for work. You'll want to collect different colors to match your seasonal outfits," says Kurashima. The striking, glamorous design is truly that of a man's shoe.

2. LOPEZ: A coin loafer loved across generations.

John Lobb
"LOPEZ" 231,000 yen View product (Black)

The "LOPEZ" is a signature loafer from JOHN LOBB that can be worn with casual styles. The hand-stitched upper gives it an elegant impression. The last is the "4395," which is specifically designed for round-toe loafers. It also features an oval-shaped saddle and a hand-sewn apron that requires advanced skills.

Since its release in 1950, this shoe has been loved across generations for its timeless style and high level of craftsmanship.

3. When it comes to double monk strap shoes, the "WILLIAM" model is a must-have.

When JOHN LOBB started its ready-to-wear line, the "WILLIAM" model was selected from their bespoke designs. While JOHN LOBB 's sizing doesn't change depending on the last used, the 9795 last used for the "WILLIAM" is relatively roomy with a higher instep. The double buckle gives it a casual yet sporty look.

John Lobb
"WILLIAM" 216,700 yen View product (Black)

"The double sole gives them a substantial feel, so they can be worn with suits, jackets and trousers, and even denim. We do see some people wearing them to weddings and funerals, but because of their ornate and flashy design, we recommend avoiding those occasions and instead opting for lace-up oxfords or straight-tip shoes," says Kurashima.

4. "CHAPEL" is made from a single piece of leather.

The "CHAPEL" model, with its semi-square toe and 8000 series leather, has a sporty and sharp look. Its appeal lies in its unique JOHN LOBB construction and design, which cannot be replicated elsewhere. It features a higher heel than the classic line, a tapered waist, and is crafted from a single piece of leather. The museum calf leather, with its distinctive marble-like uneven texture, adds a unique allure.

"CHAPEL" 289,300 yen View product

"The 'CHAPEL' model perfectly encapsulates the high level of technical skill at JOHN LOBB . Because there are no seams and no overlapping leather sections, it feels incredibly comfortable against the foot. The shoe last and design are beautifully combined, resulting in a truly elegant pair of shoes." (Kurashima)


↓↓Check this out too↓↓

■ [The Complete Guide to Brands!] Vol. 11 John Lobb

■ View JOHN LOBB products | ISETAN MITSUKOSHI LUXURY

■ Click here for a list of featured articles in the "Brand Guide" series.


Photo: SHIMPEI SUZUKI
Text: ISETAN MEN'S net

*All prices include tax.
*CITY will be discontinued once current stock runs out. There are no plans for future restocking.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , B1F, Men's Shoes.
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
For inquiries via email, please click here.