Stylist and fashion director Mitsunori Aoyagi, who published the rulebook for aspiring well-dressed men, "The Wearing Bible for Gentlemen" (Banraisha), in June of this year, held a talk show at "The Trench Shop" within "Tokyo Men's Fest 2017 @ Isetan" that was held recently. He appeared wearing a custom-made trench coat, the "Aoyagi Model," which is even longer than Aquascutum 's "Grenadier" trench coat.

Mitsunori Aoyagi: Born in Tokyo in 1960. After graduating from a vocational school, he worked in the editorial department of Style-sha's "Men's Specialty" magazine. In 1983, he became a freelancer. As a stylist and fashion editor, he has worked on fashion magazines, advertisements, and costume production for celebrities and artists. In recent years, he has also been involved in lecturing on men's fashion, including acting as a "master instructor" for dressing.

A trench coat preference that is completely different from the "Bogie-style trench coat"

When you think of a trench coat, you immediately picture a Bogart-style trench with a fedora, but that's actually a coat that looks great when worn with a wrinkled, voluminous feel, like Aquascutum 's "Kingsgate."

But I like "clean-cut" trench coats, and as I wrote in "The Secret Guide to Men's Fashion," the first time I thought trench coats were good was when I saw how Kenichi Hagiwara wore them in the movie "The Stumbling Block of Youth" and the TV show "Angels with Scars."


When I saw how Shoken was dressed at the time, I, a third-year junior high school student, thought, "This is no time to be wearing Ivy League style!" and a rapid wardrobe revolution began, with me ditching my slim jeans and switching to wide-legged pants, or "Continental" style, and buying a trench coat.

So when I went to high school, I met the son of a Japanese confectionery shop owner in Ginza. He always wore a Mr. VAN suit, Bigi shoes, and a Bigi Men's trench coat, and he had great taste. My trench coat had raglan sleeves, but his had set-in sleeves, shoulder pads, and slim arms. I realized, "What I'm wearing is Mil-Spec (military specifications)!" and I thought, "I've been beaten."

The "Aoyagi Model" is a revenge against the son of a Japanese confectionery shop owner!

I've always loved Aquascutum trench coats, and the one I'm wearing today was specially made for me by Aquascutum . I really wanted a trench coat with set-in sleeves, slim arms, and a long length that goes below the knee, so this is, in a way, my "revenge against the son of a Japanese confectionery shop owner."

I advocate the style of "wearing a coat as outerwear," and I really like the look of wearing a coat over a T-shirt or knitwear, creating a complete outfit with just the coat. Trench coats, in particular, are versatile; they look different whether you fasten or leave the belt open, and they look stylish even when worn casually.

While trench coats are practically a winter uniform for businessmen, knowing the differences between Aquascutum 's Princegate (which has a slimmer silhouette) and the Kingsgate (which has an A-line shape with a more voluminous hem) reveals that they offer a variety of styling options, making them truly appealing.

Next, we'll explain the impromptu autumn/winter trench coat styles.