Hats come alive when worn. I want to create hats that suit a variety of styles. -- Takayuki Kijima, the designer of <KIJIMA TAKAYUKI>, who is seriously committed to craftsmanship, has positioned "HIGH LINE," which will start with the Fall/Winter 2017 collection, as his next stage. In this second interview in about three years, we focused on this collection and asked him about his new challenges as a creator.

Creating a new standard for hats

I started my career with the mindset of being a craftsman rather than a designer. I've been involved in hat making for over a quarter of a century, and I still find joy in making hats, and I enjoy the concentration required during the production process. My roots in hat making lie in haute couture, and I've always wondered how I could utilize the skills I cultivated back then.

Then, one day, an acquaintance told me, "Consumers don't know or realize that Kijima Takayuki's hats are handmade. Your intentions aren't being conveyed at all."

Our traditional collections are also atelier-made, which is something we've always done as a matter of course, but with "Highline," we've increased the amount of handcrafted work. We decided to launch "Highline" to convey our long-held commitment to the value of human craftsmanship.


When you create a higher-level category like "Highline," the designs and materials tend to become distinctive, but with my brand, I focus on how to best bring out the quality of the materials. To be honest, I don't really look for design in the hats themselves.

With haute couture, you can create a design tailored to each individual, but I want to create something new by reinterpreting current street fashion in a modern way and feeding back couture techniques. These days, it's difficult to obtain good materials in any field, not just hats, but the most important thing is material selection. I want to carefully select materials and sometimes even use vintage materials.

It might sound strange coming from me, but I think the "Highline" brand's minimalist approach—a design that's relevant to the present and possesses universal value—is perfectly suited to the times. Our goal isn't to simply follow existing standards, but to create new ones. That's what I hope to express.

Manufacturing that leverages the strengths of both machine-made and handcrafted products.

 

While mass production is difficult for the "Highline" due to the sourcing of materials and the amount of handwork involved, it incorporates couture techniques, so even those unfamiliar with fashion should be able to sense that there's something different about the hats, such as their overall presence.

For example, the sweatband on the inside of the hat is machine-stitched in mass-produced hats, but since machine stitching leaves visible seams on the outside, we hide them with ribbons or other materials. Adding stitches to a minimalist design subtly affects the form, but if it's attached softly by hand, it doesn't show on the outside, and the beauty changes just by removing a single stitch.

Additionally, hand-stitching the folded-over portion around the wide brim to create a soft, rounded shape will give it a distinctly different feel.

Machine-made products have their advantages, and handmade products have their own unique qualities. I believe it's best to utilize the strengths of each and use them appropriately. A hat isn't just about its appearance; it's about how it feels when you wear it. I would be happy if someone picked up one of my hats and felt something special.

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・What does designer Takayuki Kijima, who has pursued hat-making to its very core, have realized about the future of design after a quarter-century of experience?

Photo: Tatsuya Ozawa
Text: Makoto Kajii