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2017.10.07 update

[Interview] Luca Rubinacci | Stilismo Su Misura, a descendant of the first generation（1/2）

Luca Rubinacci is a legendary dandy in the world of menswear, known to everyone. The third generation of the world-renowned RUBINACCI business charmingly smiled and said, "I want to show people that pistachio is an option," comparing his work to gelato. It has been 15 years since Luca Rubinacci joined the family business. The average age of their customers, which was 60 at the time, has now dropped to 35.


"I became a spokesperson myself, traveling the world to convey just how fascinating the world of classical music is."
Luca's style was extremely daring when compared to the rules we've always known: a double-breasted jacket with only one button fastened below the top, a vibrant color palette, a pocket square that made a statement at the chest, and playful use of accessories like layered bracelets.
"You are free to interpret it however you like. However, I want to make one thing clear: it's not meant to be eccentric. That's because all of these styles have been practiced by Neapolitan dandies. Even just buttoning the bottom button was seen as early as the early 1900s."
It was challenging, yet too refined to be considered eccentric. Of course, one cannot underestimate the lineage of being the third generation of a prestigious family, but this is perhaps the power of tradition. An aesthetic sense refined over a long period of time possesses universality.

"My father's style is wonderful. It's something to emulate. But for me, it was a little boring. Let's take a gelato shop as an example. Vanilla is certainly delicious, but you get tired of just that. Sometimes you want pistachio or blueberry. So I put other flavors in the display case."
Luca would often criticize his father about his clothing choices, but when the conversation turned to craftsmanship, he didn't hesitate to express his awe.
"Elegance is synonymous with comfort. The world is full of suits that are far from comfortable and quite restrictive, but sooner or later they will fade away as a fleeting trend. In this respect, the Neapolitan tailoring created by the Rubinacci family was already perfect. It's like a sacred realm that should not be trespassed upon."


The construction of Neapolitan sartorial tailors, exemplified by the "manica camicia" (a type of trousers with a sleeveless front), which minimized the use of interlining, became a model for the clothing culture that blossomed throughout Italy. These light, form-fitting suits soon became synonymous with comfort.
Gennaro, the founder of Sartoria Napoletana, was also a man who earned a reputation as a stylist, specializing in stylismo su misura (made-to-order). If the second generation refined the craftsmanship, then Luca is the one who occupies the position of stylismo su misura, captivating men everywhere.

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