Woodcloth Coat, the world's first commercially available fabric made from tree fibers.
When I visited Slowgun's atelier in Ebisu, Tokyo, for an interview for "My Best Coat," designer Manabu Kobayashi was clearly excited. The reason? The world's first commercial product made from "wood cloth," which is fabric made from tree fibers. Kobayashi said, "The fact that trees can be used to make clothes means, for example, that a trench coat worn by John Lennon could be made from the trees in Central Park in New York. A wonderful story is born there, and an irreplaceable added value is created."
Japanese technology makes it possible for the first time in the world to create "textiles from trees."
—When Isetan Men's asked you to participate in this " My Best Coat " project, what were your initial thoughts?
Since it's spring and summer, I thought it would be nice to create a coat that can be easily thrown on. Men's spring coats include coats to wear over a jacket for commuting and casual coats to wear on weekends, but there's also another type, the "shop coat," which is like a longer version of a coverall.
I had previously received a presentation about woodcloth, which is made from tree fibers, and I've been thinking about how I could use it ever since. Woodcloth is made by combing cellulose fibers taken from trees like paper, cutting them, and twisting them into yarn.
The texture is similar to yarn or fabric made from washi paper, but it's incredibly lightweight. It's also strong and has a nice texture. Since this is the first time it's being released to the public, we've created a "tree = herringbone pattern." It's so light that I personally think it's a material best suited for spring and summer.
-- Ms. Kobayashi, do you personally wear a coat in the spring?
Slowgun's theme for this season is "luxury brand style from the 80s and 90s," and while the silhouettes are oversized, the collection focuses on items that have a beautiful drape due to the way the fabric drapes.
This coat from Only MI was also conceived from that theme, and it's a simpler, more relaxed-fitting shop coat than the spring coats we've been offering in our Spring/Summer collection. I think I'd like to wear this beltless, longer-length design myself.
Coat: 70,200 yen
The smooth, linen-like texture makes spring and summer outfits comfortable.
-- Please tell us about your " My Best Coat ."
For Isetan, which is committed to "Made in Japan" products, we have adopted wood cloth, a product of Japanese technology. The design is simple, but the fabric has a smooth texture, a crisp and refreshing feel, is significantly lighter than linen, and is also strong, making it a perfect match. It is available in two colors: navy and beige.
—What kind of styling suggestions would you recommend focusing on this coat?
Woodcloth has a matte, non-glossy texture, so I think it pairs well with chambray shirts, dry-touch linen t-shirts, and bottoms ranging from light ankle-length pants to shorts, especially when worn unironed.
Inheriting the best qualities of clothing made from washi paper, this garment has a smooth, linen-like texture, making it comfortable to wear even after Golden Week.
Creators, brands, and stores should all communicate more to their customers.
—Please take this opportunity to share your thoughts, expectations, and requests Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building the current Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building.
I'm 51 this year, and I belong to the generation that bought a tremendous amount of things around the end of the bubble economy. Unfortunately, now I no longer feel that same "I can't help buying" motivation I had back then. I think the sense of excitement has diminished.
I hope that stores will have an atmosphere and feel that creates a sense of urgency, like "I have to buy it now," and that the staff are so enthusiastic that the customers listening to their explanations feel embarrassed.
At Slowgun, we sell modified vintage clothing at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , and we're trying out things that other department stores can't do. However, we, as creators, brands, and stores, must address the issue of diminishing added value.
Manabu Kobayashi
Graduated from Bunka Fashion College in 1988. After traveling around Europe for three years, based in Paris, she was hired as a designer by a French denim manufacturer. For five years, she commuted between the company's headquarters in Toulouse (southern France) and Tokyo, while working creatively. In 1993, she joined a denim factory in Okayama that boasted the world's best facilities at the time. While learning the behind-the-scenes aspects of manufacturing, she provided designs and products to numerous domestic and international brands. In 1998, she and Manabu Kobayashi launched Slowgun. The brand's basic theme is "nostalgic yet new clothing." Drawing inspiration from 60s and 70s movies and music, they extract "the next latest" from the mood of the times and the essence of the past. They take an approach from design to garment manufacturing.
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