A stand-collar coat featuring a "check x perforation" design, perfect for spring.

Before starting his career as a fashion designer, Takuji Suzuki of TSS worked as an editor and stylist for men's fashion magazines. "When we were young, we were 'clothes fanatics' who would buy clothes even if it meant going into debt, but now there are so many fun things and directions of interest, and while people still like clothes, many naturally find a balance. They are good at managing their relationship with clothes, have a high level of understanding, have access to information, and are good at styling and thinking," he says. So, what kind of spring coat is appropriate for this "era of enjoying fashion in one's own way"?

Inspired by "punching leather," this technique involves creating holes in polyester.

—When Isetan Men's asked you to participate in this " My Best Coat " project, what were your initial thoughts?

Lately, I've been wanting to create something that isn't commonly seen in the world, and while I was thinking about a spring coat for TSS, the idea of "punching leather" came to me. I consulted with a fabric supplier and asked, "Is it possible to punch holes in high-count polyester or nylon?" and tried out about six different high-density materials.

After much trial and error, we used a plain perforated fabric for a TSS spring coat, and a buyer from Isetan Men's liked it and asked, "The perforations are interesting, could we use this fabric for this project?" So we tried about six more materials, thinking, "How about perforations on a check pattern?" and this check pattern with perforations was the best fit.

The fabric of this coat is perforated polyester on the outside and cotton nylon for the lining.

-- Ms. Suzuki, do you personally wear a coat in the spring?

I think spring coats are becoming increasingly important as an outerwear item that can replace jackets. I myself feel like I'm putting more weight on outfits that are centered around coats. Spring coats are also making a bigger impact in TSS's spring/summer collection.

What I noticed when trying on this perforated spring coat is that, in addition to the check pattern and the look of the holes working well together, the perforations also serve a ventilation function, and I felt that the way the wind catches the fabric is great for spring.

Coat: 73,440 yen

A relaxed, "easy-to-wear" style of coordination suits her well.

-- Please tell us about your " My Best Coat ."

The material is interesting, but the shape is classic. It's a popular and classic design from TSS, featuring raglan sleeves with a change pocket and a fly-front stand-collar coat style. You don't often see spring coats with slant pockets like this.

—What kind of styling suggestions would you recommend focusing on this coat?

The coat itself has a distinctive, slightly relaxed fit, so for a casual look, try pairing it with something easy and relaxed like a cut-and-sew top, t-shirt, and sweatpants.

When I'm thinking about a collection, I certainly get ideas from the materials, but I also have some "look-first designs" where I create the pieces based on the styling image. I really value the idea of "how it would look interesting when worn."

TSS clothing is fundamentally designed to "go with anything," and for example, this spring/summer collection features jackets, shirts, and pants made from the same material, but designed so that they look different whether worn together or separately.

I want to challenge myself to create new clothing designs, so I'm going to venture overseas.

—Please take this opportunity to share your thoughts, expectations, and requests Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building the current Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building.

Since TSS has an international presence, whenever we have overseas clients or acquaintances visiting, we always recommend Isetan as a "must-see store in Tokyo." It's very well-received, as it offers a comprehensive look at Japanese fashion, from high-end brands to traditional and basic styles. Isetan is very approachable, with no pressure to buy anything and a clear categorization system, so there are no specific requests. It's a great store.

As a clothing designer, I've realized that the current Japanese market isn't large enough to allow me to create things the way I want without compromising my vision. So, I take my work to exhibitions in Europe and America. There, I always find customers who appreciate my work, which gives me the opportunity to explore new material development and create new clothing designs. That's why I've been going abroad, and the proportion of my work sold overseas is gradually increasing.

Takuji Suzuki

Graduated from Kuwasawa Design Institute, Department of Dress Design. After working as a stylist, editor, and creative director mainly for fashion magazines, he launched the men's brand TS in 1999. In January 2009, he restructured the brand concept and changed the brand name to ts(s). At the same time, he participated for the first time in the joint exhibition "PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO" held in Florence, and has continued to exhibit twice a year since then. In September 2012, he opened a directly managed store with an attached atelier in Daikanyama, Tokyo. Based on his own unique traditional style with a modern interpretation, he constructs the lineup by incorporating styles such as workwear, military, and sportswear. He aims for his own balance and stance of "creating things that seem familiar but are not" and "unexpectedness without going too far."

*All prices include tax.

inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 6th Floor = Contemporary Casual
03-3352-1111 (pinch hitter table)


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