For the past few years, I've been interested in an up-and-coming knitwear brand: Settefili Cashmere. I had heard that it was founded in Ferrara in 2009, but in less than 10 years, it has developed knitwear of exceptional quality. Touching it makes it clear that the quality is top-notch. It's not something that an up-and-coming brand can easily afford. Moreover, the collection is mainly based on basic pieces, and it's clear that they prioritize quality over creativity.

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Cable-knit crewnecks, fine-gauge turtlenecks, shawl-collar cardigans, etc. Odd-cut knit gilets are especially popular, and personal orders are also available. The fact that they offer custom orders means that it's not a large-scale mass-production factory. I wanted to know more about who the key players in the brand were, the factory's operations, and the yarn distribution channels, and that's when I had the opportunity to meet the owner, Michele Pagliero. As soon as we met, I asked him straight up, "Is Settefili Cashmere a company you founded?"

"No, I originally bought a knitwear manufacturer called Benetti. Founded in 1953, Benetti was a small but very capable knitwear manufacturer. However, perhaps because its sales channels were limited to Italy, it had financial difficulties, and it seems that its business became severely strained in the 2000s. Up until then, I had been an agent for several brands, but I decided to buy the factory. Now, I have finally been able to bring back eight craftsmen, but at first, I didn't have the funds to hire more than two."


Benetti owned rare vintage Swiss knitting machines manufactured in the 1960s and 70s. Only a few craftsmen in the factory could operate these machines, and fearing the loss of both their jobs and this valuable skill, Michele, at the young age of 40, invested his own fortune. While his agency business was thriving, he was a novice when it came to manufacturing. However, his straightforward approach led to business success. His ability to maintain a calm and objective perspective as a manager is undeniable. But it's easy to imagine the extraordinary determination and passion required for such a major shift in direction. His love for his collection is also profound.

"Our collection planning for each season begins with the yarn. Rather than focusing on trends or fashions, we start by considering what kind of knitting pattern and what kind of items would best suit this yarn. The next important thing is the color palette. If the white is pure white, we'll use a vivid red, but if the white is off-white, the red will be brick red. We unify the tone of the color palette throughout the entire collection, so even accent colors won't be outlandish."


With a monthly production of only 600 pieces, the brand offers approximately 50 different styles, and popular models are carried over to the next season. The "Cintrino" knitted vest with a buckle has become synonymous with the brand, and can be ordered in a variety of colors and knit patterns.

"Unlike simply cutting the sleeves off a cardigan, creating an odd vest-style knit gilet is incredibly time-consuming. Other companies would need to mass-produce them in batches of 100 to make it cost-effective, but Settefili Cashmere can knit them one at a time. This is possible because of our small scale operations and the skill of our knitters. It requires a high level of skill in using linking machines, making it extremely difficult to copy. Our trunk show at last year's Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building was also well-received."

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