Try pinching the shoulder area of your own suit or jacket. You'll notice there's a soft, fluffy material inside. In classic tailoring techniques, the roundness and thickness of the shoulder are formed by weaving in multiple layers of interlining, such as cotton padding sandwiched between fabric, stiff linen thread, horsehair, or felt fabric called "reinforcement." A single thin piece of fabric would wrinkle easily, just like a shirt, but this is a necessary aesthetic choice devised to accommodate the unique three-dimensional shape of each individual's shoulder while maintaining the appearance of formal wear.

Franco Marangon, Sales Manager at Belvest

However, recently, many jackets achieve a three-dimensional shoulder structure simply by inserting a thin layer of interlining. As you'll quickly realize if you actually handle the fabric, needle, and thread, it's incredibly difficult to shape a flat piece of fabric into a rounded shape that wraps around the shoulder without creating wrinkles. Achieving this using fabric pressing and a sophisticated technique called easing, which involves gathering the fabric little by little while sewing, requires extraordinary skill.

In the world of tailoring, the secret techniques passed down from father to son and kept secret from outside the family were made possible by meticulous hand-ironing and skilled craftsmen sewing each stitch by hand. It was virtually impossible for manufacturers to mass-produce these garments by employing many workers, both in terms of manpower and technology. As far as I know, Belvest was the first to succeed in mass-producing these garments as ready-made products.


The unconstructed tailoring method, known as "unconstructed" or "senza interno" in Italian, is a sewing technique that differs from the crisp, wrinkle-free tailoring of sartoriale, resulting in a light and airy fit. For this reason, it is often used for casual jackets worn on weekends, and even today, most unconstructed jackets are introduced as relaxed jackets for casual weekend wear, and are rarely used as dress jackets for business or formal occasions. However, Belvest's unconstructed jackets are beautifully tailored, making them suitable for wearing to the office.


Many believe that the modern unstructured jacket originated with Boglioli's "K Jacket," but its true origin lies in Belvest's "Jacket in the Box." This beautifully tailored jacket is so softly made that it can literally be folded and placed in a box, yet it maintains a dressy feel. Machine sewing, used for efficiency, is limited to areas that do not affect comfort, while areas requiring a soft finish, such as the use of interlining, sleeve attachment, and hem finishing, are finished by hand. As a result, although it is a tailored jacket with the same lapel shape, it is a completely different garment from the wrinkle-free, fully-canvas-lined suits worn by members of parliament and business executives. Long before Tagliatore and Lardini, Belvest was making thin, lightweight jackets without interlining.

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