High quality and high level overall balance
Today, many inexpensive factory brands have flooded the unstructured jacket market, but Belvest doesn't seem to see them as competitors. Having honed its skills as a factory for prestigious luxury fashion houses, Belvest never ventures into the lower price range. This brings to mind the words of Rei Kawakubo: "Truly good things cannot be made cheaply."
On the contrary, Belvest's status has risen far beyond what it once was. As a ready-to-wear brand that uses high-quality materials and extensive handcrafting, it has established an absolute position and possesses unwavering brand power, so its customer list includes doctors, lawyers, and other highly prestigious professions. Last month, when Belvest's sales manager, Franco Marangon, came to Japan for a trunk show at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building I asked him directly, "What do you think of the unstructured jacket brands that are popular right now?" He smiled and deflected the question, saying, "Today, I came here to talk only about Belvest."
In the world of men's fashion, everyone knows Franco Marangon, sales manager of Belvest. He is given the largest space in the deepest part of the Classico Italia Association area, located on the top floor of the main pavilion at Pitti Uomo, and his exhibition booth, which resembles the living room of a suite with numerous luxurious sofas, is a famous sight twice a year, where he greets customers with his back straight like a butler. Buyers and journalists from all over the world come to meet him and listen to his fashion. His attire, which is classic yet fresh and even has a touch of high fashion, is the envy of fashionistas around the world.
He arrived in a navy jacket again today. Franco, who wears a navy suit for all four days of Pitti Uomo, pretends it's simply because he's lazy, saying, "It's easy to coordinate on busy mornings," and "I don't have to change clothes if I wear navy for evening events," but he is impeccably dressed. "60% of my closet is navy," he says, hinting at the possibility of gray and brown, but navy is probably his identity color. The double-breasted jacket with gold buttons fits his slender but muscular body perfectly. The stripes on his shirt are a deep blue, and the pink tie stands out softly against his chest. The pocket square with light blue and pink polka dots must be a response to the tie. Upon closer inspection, the jacket is a tone-on-tone glen check.
"This autumn, Belvest recommends check patterns as a trend. We have a wide selection of colors, including a deep navy blue called Belvest Blue, and melange colors made with multi-colored threads. The quality of the Viyella wool and Scottish cashmere is also high. Don't you think even slightly rustic colors and patterns can feel fresh?"
The fabric samples prepared for the order event included many tweedy, brushed materials with muted tones, featuring various sizes of check patterns on a melange background, rather than the dark navy with vibrant color stripes often seen in Italian fabrics up until now. As he flipped through the samples, he spoke in a solemn tone, as if explaining them to a customer who had come in for measurements.
"When it comes to maintaining product quality, the fabric is our top priority. The sewing technique must be adapted to the fabric. If the fabric quality is high, then the sewing technique must also be highly advanced. That's why Belvest employs highly skilled craftsmen."
Last year, they launched a new line called the "Capsule Collection." This collection features a lightweight construction similar to the unstructured jacket-in-the-box style, but with wide lapels, a compact silhouette, and a range of modern colors and patterns—a truly creative collection. With a light blue label tag instead of the usual black tag, this collection will become one of Belvest's pillars going forward, he says, sitting upright across the table.
"The superiority of Belvest lies in the high level of balance achieved in all aspects: fabric, cutting, and stitching. It's something you can only truly understand when you try it on. Even those who previously bought two or three inexpensive jackets per season will likely notice the difference if they purchase one Belvest jacket for the same budget."
In an era where many fashion houses are emphasizing a return to their roots, and where there are so many choices, there is something to be rediscovered by going back to the origins. Perhaps a return to Belvest is also a return to the origins of menswear. Franco's words resonate quietly with such conviction.
Text: Ikeda Yasuyuki
Photo: Ozawa Tatsuya
inquiry
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 4th Floor = International Luxury
03-3352-1111 (main representative)
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