The front and back covers of Kaori Nakano's book, "50 Essential Items for Gentlemen" (Shogakukan Select Mook), feature original illustrations by the "master" illustrator, Hiroshi Wataya. The front cover depicts a man holding a coat in one hand, while the back cover shows a man casually escorting a woman and placing his coat over her shoulders. The red cover embodies Nakano's wish that "reading this book will help you become such a man." Please pick up a copy at your bookstore. ( Part 1 is available here )


A person who can skillfully balance solitude and social interaction.

--Mr. Nakano, you have been researching gentlemen for a long time. What kind of image do you have of a "gentleman" in the 21st century?

When we talk about "gentlemen," it's often equated with describing the ideal man (laughs), but as the definition goes, "a gentleman who fulfills all the conditions of a gentleman is not a gentleman," so it's not that simple. However, people who can flexibly adapt to their surroundings according to the times, while still having a strong core, are respected in any era. A person who skillfully balances solitude and social interaction, adapting to society while maintaining their individuality, is at the heart of the image of a gentleman.

—Women cannot wear men's clothing; are you conscious of that aspect as well?

When men talk about men's products, I feel that their personal feelings and likes and dislikes often come into play, but I can take a step back, and I think that objectivity is a strength as a writer. For women's products, a sense of the times and mood are important, but for men's products, those that remain are those that compete on the quality of the bare minimum functionality. I believe that things that have been stripped of their ornamentation and compete on their essential quality will transcend time.

—When it comes to dressing up, men and women are definitely different, aren't they?

For example, men who appreciate the value of things gather together and take pictures of each other's shoes and other accessories. Women would find that kind of idea embarrassing and would almost never think of it. Dressing up to be attractive has existed since before the Edo period, but men who genuinely love Western clothing sometimes invest in fashion items as a hobby without hesitation, and that's a world that women don't understand. Acts like taking pictures of each other's shoes function as a means of communication in a homosocial world. People with the same tastes and preferences are drawn to each other.


The image of a "gentleman" in the 21st century can be gleaned from objects.

--So, today we've gathered items featured in "50 Essential Gentlemen's Items" from within Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . What are your impressions of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ?

It's literally a mecca for men's fashion. For the past few years, I've been a training instructor at Mitsukoshi Isetan Department Store, giving lectures to the staff (stylists) on fashion history and brands. I think they've done a great job with their branding, investing in such education and focusing on cultural outreach like Charlie Weiss and Salon de Shimaji on the 8th floor. I've also used their gift concierge service, which is a nice touch.

JOHN SMEDLEY shallow V-neck sweater: 31,320 yen each

-- Are there any items on the table that catch your eye?

John Smedley holds a Royal Warrant from Queen Elizabeth II, designating them as a supplier to the British Royal Family. However, while the mark is on the hangtag, it's not on the tag itself. This unique stance reflects the brand's unassuming attitude towards its royal status. Some people appreciate this attitude, and it shows how the sense of what's "cool" for a modern gentleman changes with the times.

—That also overlaps with the image of a "gentleman" in the 21st century, doesn't it?

Those who are generally considered gentlemen of the 21st century all say, "I'm not a gentleman," and those in the establishment class don't like to be too obvious about it. This temperament can also be seen in how they interact with material possessions.

SOZZI long socks 4,644 yen each), SANYO YAMACHO skin-stitched U-tip shoes "Kanzaburo" 97,200 yen , M.MOWBRAY shoe care set "Edward Set" 3,240 yen

The man wants a push in the right direction.

Often, men want meaning and significance in the things they buy.

That's right. They probably want a little push in the right direction. Fashion and human behavior evolve in a spiral pattern. Just when you think ornamentation has become stronger, the normcore trend comes along, and then people start saying "tacky" (bad taste) is good again. So even if there's a trend of thinking that owning fewer things is cool, according to the "law of the spiral," things will never completely disappear. If you create things with sincerity, that will be properly conveyed to the user, and brands that can gain repeat customers will never go out of business.

--Finally, could you tell us who you think is a cool guy right now?

A person who embodies "the highest level of ordinariness." At first glance, they seem ordinary, but their level of ordinariness is top-notch. As I wrote in this book, if the essence is in order, there is no need to be eccentric or stand out. The best ordinariness is never boring. I admire them.

Kaori Nakano's "50 Essential Items for Gentlemen" Talk Event
Kaori Nakano, author of "50 Essential Items for Gentlemen," will talk about "Choosing Gentlemen's Items." A special guest will also make an appearance!
□Date: Saturday, June 18th
□Time: 4pm - 5pm □Location: Charlie Weiss, 8th floor Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building □Cost: 1,500 yen (tax included), plus drinks □Capacity: 20 people □Reservations: 03-3225-2853 (direct line)
*Please register or inquire in person at the store or by phone. We apologize, but registration will close once the maximum number of participants is reached.

Kaori Nakano
Fashion historian and essayist. Adjunct Professor at Meiji University's School of International Japanese Studies. A graduate of the University of Tokyo Graduate School and a visiting researcher at the University of Cambridge, she researches, writes, and lectures on a wide range of topics, from the history of fashion over the past 2000 years to the latest trends. Her published works include "Mode, Eros, and Capital" (Shueisha Shinsho), "The Genealogy of Dandyism: Men Admired by Other Men" (Shinchosha), and supervised translation of "Chanel, the Secret of the Revolution" (Discover Twenty-One).
http://www.kaori-nakano.com/

Photo: Suzuki Shimpei

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