[Interview] Jeremy Hackett (Founder of Hackett London) | A delicious cake needs decoration.

Jeremy Hackett has arrived in Japan with the collection he created for the "Campaign for Wool." A gentleman among gentlemen, known as Mr. Classic even among British gentlemen, what is the aesthetic of Jeremy? And how did such an aesthetic develop?

"Details are only one factor in making up a style. There are other important factors in menswear, such as silhouette and fabric. However, even so, details cannot be neglected. Let's use a cake as an analogy. Let's say the sponge and cream are delicious, but would we want to eat a cake with no decorations?"

Jeremy Hackett argues that understatement is what makes a gentleman stand out, and this was clearly evident in the collection featured in the Campaign for Wool. Patch pockets with reversed weave patterns, a Tower of London depicted on the lining, red piping as an homage to the Land of the Rising Sun, and four sleeve buttons spaced apart.

"The number of buttons on the sleeves of military uniforms is 5 for Wales and 2+2 for Coldstream. Hackett London's formal wear has 3+1 (laughs). Almost no Brits notice my particular preferences. In that sense, I might be closer to your sensibilities."

This collection, in particular, could only have been completed with the cooperation of Harris Tweed and Fox Brothers, two of Britain's leading textile manufacturers. The charming texture of Harris Tweed, instantly recognizable, and the smooth, almost clinging flannel of Fox Brothers are simply irreplaceable—Jeremy said, stroking the fabric tenderly.

Tradition cannot be consumed completely.
Jeremy Hackett grew up in an old town on the Atlantic coast, with parents who worked in the fashion industry. Later, he moved to London and, after securing a sales position at a King's Road shop, soon developed a passion for vintage clothing. He moved to a Savile Row tailor while simultaneously starting a business selling secondhand clothes. Jeremy's discerning eye became a sensation, and as his supply began to outstrip his business, he started designing his own clothing, leading to his current success. It's a success story that seems destined to make him Mr. Classic.

"I was precocious, and everyone in my class would copy my style. My favorite style back then was tab-collar shirts, finely woven ties, tapered pants, and Chelsea boots. It may have been avant-garde, but each item was fundamentally classic; the avant-garde aspect was how I combined them. Deconstructing and reassembling tradition was incredibly fun. As an adult, I've come to want to shine a spotlight once again on the world of classics that had once overshadowed me."
When I suggested that there might be limitations to relying solely on vintage items and fabrics, they immediately denied it.

"Take Fox Brothers, for example. That company was founded in 1772. The archives they've created over the years are so vast that it would be impossible to use them all, even if you dedicated your life to it."
Jeremy Hackett opened his first shop in 1983. The company has a history of just over 30 years. In Britain, where many prestigious companies with centuries of history compete, the key to its high reputation lies in its deep love and understanding of classical music, combined with a playful spirit that it knows exactly where to infuse.

"My role is to sense the spirit of each era, apply appropriate updates to the appropriate archives, and prove that classics are not relics of a bygone era. Classics are something that are constantly evolving."
What he was trying to say was immediately obvious from his attire that day. His clothes seemed to come alive.
Text: Takegawa Keiji
Photo: Fujii Taku
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