2024.12.04 update

[Interview] Learn how to enjoy classic vintage clothing from Levi's®, the gateway to vintage style, explained by Mr. Tajima of Koenji Safari | ISETAN STORY STORE

12.11 Wed -12.15 Sun
Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 6th Floor Event Hall

With the theme of "I want to give this to that special someone. I want to pass it on to my child one day," ISETAN STORY STORE offers a rich lineup of timeless items that you'll want to use and cherish for a long time. It brings together a diverse range of collaborative items across genres, vintage wear, and more. It will be open for a limited time at the event space on the 6th floor of the main building of Isetan Shinjuku store.

One of the highlights of this special pop-up event, planned by the buyer in charge of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building is a collaboration between buyer Inaba and Safari, a renowned vintage shop in Koenji. This project will feature a carefully selected lineup of vintage clothing, primarily from LEVI'S®, that Safari carries.

Vintage clothing is often perceived as requiring knowledge and being difficult to purchase, but what exactly is its appeal? Through Levi's®, a leading brand of vintage clothing, Safari's renowned store manager, Mr. Tajima, and buyer Inaba discuss how to enjoy classic vintage garments.

  1. The Second Vintage Clothing Boom: A Gateway to Vintage Wear
  2. What are the appealing features of each model of this timeless jacket that has been passed down through generations?
    1. The "1st" denim jacket, a masterpiece from the 1940s, became the basic form of the denim jacket.
    2. "2nd" was born in the 1950s, America's golden age.
    3. The "3rd" has evolved, gaining a fashionable appeal.
    4. The "1940s model" is a popular item that vintage clothing enthusiasts aspire to own.
  3. How to enjoy vintage clothing, which is often perceived as being intimidating.
  4. Click here for event information at 'ISETAN STORY STORE'.
profile
Yusuke Tajima
Koenji Safari Business Strategy Manager
He is the manager of the 3rd and 5th branches of Safari, a renowned second-hand clothing store located in Koenji. Not only is he well-versed in American casual wear, the quintessential vintage clothing, but as the 3rd and 5th branches also carry vintage clothing from Italy, France, and England, he also has a deep knowledge of classic European vintage clothing. He also plans the sale of vintage shoes at events held at ISETAN MEN'S .
Instagram: @safari_kouenji
Tomohiro Inaba
Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing Buyer
Since joining the company in 2010, he has spent 10 years in various roles at the ISETAN MEN'S store, including sales, store manager, and buyer, on the dress clothing floor. He proposes a unique mixed styling that blends classic tailored clothing with current trends. He handles a wide range of buying, from hand-sewn bespoke clothing to cutting-edge domestic brands.
Instagram: @tomohiro_inaba_

The Second Vintage Clothing Boom: A Gateway to Vintage Wear

The vintage clothing market has been attracting renewed attention in recent years, with some saying there's a resurgence in the vintage clothing boom. Ms. Tajima describes the situation as follows:

Yusuke Tajima (hereinafter Tajima) : "Vintage clothing has always been popular in Japan, but in the last five or six years it has been said to be experiencing a resurgence in popularity, and is attracting particular attention from people in Asia, such as China and Thailand. Popular models are in high demand, and buying can't keep up with the demand, so many items sell out as soon as they hit the shelves. Levi's®, the quintessential vintage wear brand, is definitely a prime example of a popular item."

Inaba, a buyer specializing in dress clothing, also seems to be noticing the growing interest in vintage wear among the many customers who visit Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building .

Tomohiro Inaba (hereinafter Inaba) : "I sometimes run into customers I've served in the store at their favorite vintage clothing store. It's interesting to see people who usually buy classic dress clothing also paying attention to vintage clothing. In recent years, mixed styles that combine classic dress clothes with casual items such as military wear have become a trend, so I think the demand for vintage wear is on the rise."

What are the appealing features of each model of this timeless jacket that has been passed down through generations?

As an introduction to vintage wear, Ms. Tajima suggests a Levi's® denim jacket. Ms. Tajima says that it's a well-known classic that's easy to incorporate into outfits, and the changes in details from different production periods are easy to see, making it the perfect item to learn about the charm of vintage clothing. In this article, we will introduce how to identify high-quality vintage clothing and how to enjoy the differences in details, using representative models of Levi's® denim jackets from different eras, which will also be available for sale at the ISETAN STORY STORE.

The "1st" denim jacket, a masterpiece from the 1940s, became the basic form of the denim jacket.


"1st" "506XX" 1,430,000 yen

First, let me introduce the "506XX," the first denim jacket model from Levi's®, commonly known as the "1st." It features a single chest pocket and a buckle on the back that allows for size adjustment by piercing it with a needle.


Tajima: "The '1st' has a shorter length and a boxy silhouette, so many people choose a larger size and adjust the length to wear it loosely for a more modern fit. By the way, a size 42 is a good choice as it gives a slightly looser, more fashionable look. This one is from the 1940s, but it's in excellent condition."

Inaba : "Also, it's said that the darker the color, the better the condition and the more valuable it is. Of course, deadstock is the highest quality, but since it's so rare to find something from this era, the darker the color, the better the condition. Another important point is the honeycomb pattern, which is the faded look that develops on the sleeves when you bend your arms. This one has a very nice honeycomb pattern."


"2nd" was born in the 1950s, America's golden age.


"2nd" "507XX" 440,000 yen

Next up is the "507XX," commonly known as the "2nd," which was born during America's golden age in the early 1950s, a period of economic prosperity following the end of World War II. While retaining the silhouette of the "1st," it adds details such as chest pockets on both sides and tack-button side adjusters on the back.

Tajima : "The color is a little lighter here, but it's faded nicely, so the condition isn't bad. Also, the fact that the leather patch is still slightly attached is a point that will allow it to fetch a higher price. Regarding the patch, if it's in better condition, some people remove the patch before wearing it and store it separately."


The "3rd" has evolved, gaining a fashionable appeal.


"3rd" "557XX" 198,000 yen

And the "557XX," commonly known as the "3rd," which was born in the early 1960s, reached a perfected form as a fashion item. Its most distinctive feature is the contrasting front panel, making it an instantly recognizable design. Another characteristic of the "3rd" is that all patches are made of paper.

Tajima : "When brands create denim jackets, the '3rd' model is often used as a design source. The silhouette is moderately streamlined and refined, making it arguably the most wearable model. Also, the '4th' model produced after this one has a longer length, so if you want to enjoy a shorter length look, I recommend models up to the '3rd' model."


The "1940s model" is a popular item that vintage clothing enthusiasts aspire to own.


"1940s model" "S506XX" 2,200,000 yen

Finally, we introduce the "1940s model," which is highly popular among discerning fashion enthusiasts. Produced during World War II, this item features details that reflect the social conditions of the time, making it a truly fascinating piece with plenty to talk about.

Tajima : "The most easily recognizable features are the lack of a flap on the chest pocket and the four buttons. The buttons aren't the original ones with the Levi's® logo engraved on them, but rather cost-saving material with a laurel wreath decoration and a hollowed-out center. It's interesting to see the details throughout that reflect the cost-saving measures taken due to the social conditions of the time."


How to enjoy vintage clothing, which is often perceived as being intimidating.

Levi's® denim jackets are a quintessential example of classic vintage clothing, but how exactly should you style them? We asked buyer Inaba for his tips on how to wear them.

Inaba : "I think it's best to choose a loose-fitting size and pair it with dressy pants to give it a fashionable look. You might be tempted to pair it with casual bottoms, but that could end up looking like the unfashionable workwear style of that era, so the key is to wear it in a way that gives it a fashionable feel."


Location of the interview for this article: Koenji SAFARI 1st Store VINTAGE CLOTHING

Tajima : "Nowadays, secondhand clothing is no longer just a secondary market item; it has acquired a value similar to a brand in itself: vintage wear. Unlike modern clothing, which is made with an emphasis on design, vintage clothing's details vary depending on its practicality and the social conditions of the time it was made. I hope people will appreciate the history unique to vintage wear and, when they stop wearing it themselves, pass it on to the next lover."

Some people may have the impression that vintage clothing is difficult to buy without knowledge. Choosing what you want from among the many items in a vintage clothing store can also be difficult for those who are not used to it. At this pop-up store at ISETAN STORY STORE, instead of just lining up the products, we will display and sell each item as a masterpiece in an easy-to-view way. Through the service of our staff, you can learn about the history and details of each garment and enjoy the story that the clothes tell.

Click here for event information at 'ISETAN STORY STORE'.

Event Information
ISETAN STORY STORE
  • Event period: 12
  • Venue: Isetan Shinjuku Main Building, 6th Floor Event Hall

Photograph: Yusuke Iida
Text: Shinji Hashimoto

*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
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