With the COVID-19 pandemic subsiding and commuting to the office becoming a normal part of life again, Isetan Men's has seen a surge in inquiries about belts, which play a key role in completing a business attire look.

In fact, Isetan Men's has had a long-standing, albeit hidden, best-selling, original curved belts made from cowhide box calf leather. These belts, carefully crafted in an atelier in Asakusa, Tokyo's mecca for leather goods, will now feature the return of "cordovan" leather, and a new "grained leather" option will be added.
We spoke with Sota Miyashita, Sales Manager Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building who was involved in the revival and creation of new cordovan belts for ISETAN MEN'S and possesses extensive knowledge of leather products.

First, what is a "curved belt"?

Belts are generally manufactured with a straight, unbroken band from end to end. In contrast, belts made by pre-cutting the leather into a gentle curved shape are called "curved belts." Their main advantage is that the band's shape follows the natural curve of the waistline, reducing uncomfortable pressure on the pelvis and spine when worn. This significantly reduces stress on both the belt and the body when sitting or bending over. As a result, the belt itself lasts longer, which is another attractive feature.

However, because the edges (cross-sections) need to be finished with smooth curves rather than straight lines, a high level of technical skill is required, and only a limited number of ateliers are capable of manufacturing them. In addition, because the leather is cut in a curved shape, the yield of leather is poor, and production efficiency is significantly lower than for conventional products, resulting in a smaller number of items that can be produced per year.

ISETAN MEN'S original belt, known for its meticulous craftsmanship.

Isetan Men's original belts, including this curved belt, are crafted with astonishing detail. These are subtle touches that you might not notice unless pointed out, but they truly showcase masterful craftsmanship.

[Craftsmanship ①]
Hand-stitching around the area that secures the belt loops.

It minimizes unnecessary wobbling of the belt loop and buckle.

[Craftsmanship ②]
The reverse side of the leather is "turned over".

This technique involves wrapping the edges of the belt with the reverse side of the leather, creating a rounded finish. This results in a uniquely rounded edge, giving it an elegant look suitable for business settings. Furthermore, because there are no leather seams on the back of the belt, only the reverse side of the leather touches the body, resulting in a smoother feel and significantly improved durability.

[Craftsmanship ③]
Even the unseen core material is made of cowhide.

With its luxurious design, which can be considered the origin of a natural wearing feel, the center is slightly raised to further enhance its sense of luxury.

However, even this extra effort won't be worthwhile unless you can source high-quality materials, such as leather.
In fact, since the COVID-19 pandemic, it has been difficult worldwide to procure high-quality raw hides of any kind. However, Miyashita, who was in charge of this project, made full use of the experience, knowledge, and procurement routes he had acquired to create the curved belt that we are introducing today.

The "Cordovan Belt" is back by popular demand!

Let's start with the cordovan leather, which is making a comeback this spring. Made from the underside of horsehide from the hindquarters, this leather boasts an unparalleled luster and is sometimes called the "jewel of leather." It is particularly well-known among men's shoe enthusiasts for its many devoted fans. Following the Leather Fair held last autumn, we received an overwhelming number of requests, which led to its return.

The leather used this time is cordovan from Shinki Leather in Himeji, which now plays a leading role in the world of cordovan production. To maximize its highly transparent luster, and taking into account the performance required for belt leather, we deliberately applied a different tanning method than that used for shoes. Specifically, after coloring with water-based pigment, a light finish with pigment was applied, resulting in a truly luxurious texture. In fact, we've heard that many customers in stores have already specifically requested it, saying, "I prefer this to the shine of box calf!"

In reality, the fiber structure of a horse's hindquarters varies greatly from individual to individual, so not all of it can be made into leather that can be called "cordovan." Moreover, in order to make a curved belt that is cut in a curved shape from a single piece of leather without any seams, a large piece of raw hide is required in the first place. In other words, this belt is a more premium item than it looks.

Nevertheless, the belt width is 32mm (standard size only), slightly wider than usual, taking into consideration that it will also be paired with cordovan shoes, which often have a rugged appearance. This is sure to be a welcome point, especially for fans of this leather. The buckle to be paired with it has also been carefully selected to have a presence without being gaudy.

A "grained leather belt" that's easy to use for both business and casual occasions.

Next up is a grained leather belt that went on sale this June. With the rise of casual business wear since the pandemic ended, such as no-tie styles and jacket-and-trousers looks, the lines between weekday and weekend attire are blurring.
Amidst this, this product was created to meet requests such as, "Is there a curved belt that can be worn with loafers?" and "I wish there was one made of a material that could be used for both formal and casual occasions..."

This strap uses grained leather from Ilcea, a prestigious Italian company. This leather is moderately casual, yet never too informal, and even has a certain elegance to it. Compared to the standard box calf leather that we will introduce later, it is also characterized by its softer feel when worn.

Another noteworthy detail is the width of this belt. It's slightly narrower than those made from cordovan or box calf leather, at 30mm, and the buckle is also slightly smaller to complement it. Thanks to this, it creates a visually and literally just-right sense of relaxation.

Truly the best-selling "box calf belt"

The last item we'll introduce is the ever-popular box calf leather. The strap here uses leather from Annonay, a French tannery that is very well known among leather enthusiasts, especially those who love men's shoes. It boasts a fine texture and a refined appearance; at a glance, you can tell that it is a high-quality curved belt made from high-quality leather.

The belt width is set slightly wider at 32mm (standard size only), allowing you to fully appreciate the exceptional quality of the leather. Furthermore, to create an atmosphere suitable for business settings, a clean, square-type buckle has been adopted. This is an excellent first choice for those who want to purchase a belt that looks professional , such as new employees.

Tips for making your favorite belt last longer

Isetan Men's curved belts boast meticulous craftsmanship and high-quality leather materials. To enjoy this quality for a long time, a little care is needed in handling them. Here are a few points to keep in mind.

No matter how much you love your belt, don't wear it every day.

After wearing a leather belt for a full day, it absorbs a considerable amount of sweat, so it needs time to dry. Just like with leather shoes, rotating several belts will ultimately extend the lifespan of each belt compared to using the same one continuously.

After wearing the belt, store it by letting it hang straight down each time.

After using your belt, don't be lazy and remove it from your pants. This relieves the tension that tends to accumulate when wearing it, making it less likely to develop stubborn wrinkles. For example, you can use a place like a tie rack in your closet. As for maintenance, a dry wipe is usually sufficient.

Purchase and wear a belt that fits your waist size.

This is a point to pay particular attention to with curved belts, as the degree of curvature is varied according to waist size to ensure even tension on the body. Incidentally, to determine the belt size, if there are five holes, measure from the third hole to the tip of the buckle pin. If you can no longer fasten the belt comfortably unless you fasten it one hole to the right or left of the third hole, unfortunately, it's a sign that you need to buy a new one. This is because the distance between holes has changed by one or more since you purchased it, meaning your waist size has changed by approximately 2.5 cm or more. Use a good quality belt as a guide to maintain your figure.

Match the color of your belt to the color of your shoes.

It's a fundamental aspect of fashion, and it also helps extend the lifespan of each colored belt. If you find one you like, we recommend buying it in multiple colors.

We also offer a one-size-fits-all belt made of the same material, perfect for gifting.

The original curved belts introduced here are "standard length" belts, with several lengths available for each type. However, it's also true that belts are very popular as gifts. To accommodate this, we also offer "free size" belts in a standard straight shape, available in all leather materials and colors, that can be cut to size later. However, these belts all have a width of 30mm.

"I just bought new shoes, so I'd like a belt that matches them."
"Since I'm at it, I'd like to upgrade to a higher-quality belt."
"I want to tighten my resolve with a new belt as I embark on a new chapter in my life, such as starting a new job or changing careers," and so on...
There are many different times and occasions when people buy belts. To meet everyone's needs, Isetan Men's original curved belts, made with carefully selected leather materials and meticulously crafted details, are a source of immense confidence for us, with revived designs, new releases, and classic styles all in one. Enjoy choosing the perfect belt for any occasion!

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A guide to choosing the right belt for men! The key to a stylish outfit is choosing the right size.

Text: Takahiro Iino
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa (Studio Mug)

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building B1F, Leather Goods, Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number)
For inquiries via email, please click here.