The catalog published by Isetan Men's, "THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING AUTUMN & WINTER 2023"

Shoe buyer Kagami, who has built his career in the field of classic fashion, discusses the latest trends in shoes from a "style" perspective. What new trends has he discovered after visiting fashion hubs around the world, including Pitti Uomo?

He discusses the future of classic fashion, as seen through his career and aesthetic sensibilities.

Are sneakers really this different overseas and in Japan? The global sneaker scene

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, overseas business trips had been suspended for a long time. It wasn't until January 2023 that he was able to resume participating in Pitti Uomo. Kagami says that when he went there, he discovered two trends in the footwear of the attendees.

One thing I noticed was the significantly increased rate of sneaker wear. While this may be due to the season, this trend was even more pronounced at the summer Pitti Uomo event held in June. In a way, this was a predictable trend, but upon closer observation of the attendees' footwear, I noticed some differences compared to Japan.

In Japan, sneakers from established sports brands are overwhelmingly popular, but surprisingly, they were rarely seen among Pitti Uomo attendees. Many of them opted for unstructured tailored jackets from brands like Lardini and LBM 1911 paired with T-shirts. This is a classic adult style in Japan, but instead of the aforementioned sports brands, they were wearing classic and premium brand sneakers.

Among them, the one that caught Kagami's eye was Autory , founded in Dallas, USA in 1982. Although it is still a relatively unknown brand in Japan, Kagami recalls that it was worn by a considerable number of people at Pitti Uomo. This season, Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building is focusing on the "Medalist," which can be considered the company's signature model. Inspired by vintage sneakers from the 1980s, this shoe has a classic sporty look but uses high-quality leather. It is a shoe that is perfect for adults in terms of both appearance and comfort.

The Italian premium shoe brand Voile Blanche has been gaining popularity in Japan in recent years. Their signature models are the "Liam Power" and the "Qualk Hype," both featuring intricate designs with layers of calfskin and suede. The voluminous soles not only add a visual accent but also contribute to comfort.

At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building be sure to check out Timotei Paris, making its debut this year. The "Atlantic" has the look of a classic training shoe, but the use of supple suede on the upper enhances its quality. The "Pira" shows influences from basketball shoes, but its unique design features three eyelets, almost like a dress shoe.

After attending Pitti Uomo, Kagami visited famous shops in Milan and Paris to conduct research. What he discovered there was that "there are still many sneaker trends in Japan that haven't been introduced yet."

"Even in prestigious European stores, the presence of premium sneakers was striking. Of course, they also carry sports sneakers, but what was impressive was how they had a dedicated 'premium sneaker zone' with a wide and deep selection. In Japan, they are still only available as one variation of sneakers, but judging from overseas trends, the potential for growth is enormous. That's why I thought Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building should take the lead in establishing a hub for premium sneakers. If you're looking for fresh sneakers that are different from the standard sports or high-end brands, be sure to check out the men's shoes on the first basement floor of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ."

Related article: [Feature] 8 Premium Sneakers That Combine Individuality and Class | THE GENTLEMEN CLOTHING SPRING & SUMMER 2023

What are the subtle changes in leather shoes that accompany style shifts?

While witnessing the rise of premium sneakers, Kagami also discovered a new trend in leather shoes. He describes his impressions of Pitti as follows:

"While many people sporting dressy casual styles like suits, jackets, and T-shirts were wearing sneakers, those incorporating rugged workwear or military-inspired looks mostly opted for leather shoes. Of course, these weren't traditional oxford dress shoes, but rather rubber-soled U-tip shoes and slip-ons. When I was younger, my seniors taught me that 'if you're going to choose proper shoes, they have to be leather-soled,' but I realized that this kind of thinking is changing rapidly."

Related article: [20th Anniversary Special Feature] Tracing the 20-year history Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building

La Furbo Love Leather

Jake's Button-Down Shirt

Tangent Military Pants

JM WESTON Golf

Today, I put together an outfit that reflects the mood of Pitti Uomo. It consists of a blazer from La Favola , a button-down shirt from Jake's , military pants from Tangente , and J.M. Weston 's "Golf" sneakers. This outfit, which mixes tailored elements with military and Native American influences, is paired with leather shoes rather than sneakers. In other words, the crossover between dressy and casual is the key to this style today.

The promising new generation of companies was found among familiar manufacturers.

Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , offers a wide selection of classic, authentic casual leather shoes from brands like Paraboot and Alden . While we continue to recommend those brands, Kagami says there's a new brand he'd like to recommend. Somewhat surprisingly, it's Regal Tokyo, a brand born from Regal , a name known to virtually every Japanese person.

As I started today's interview with a discussion of Pitti Uomo, I believe that from now on, shoes will be discussed not as mere "objects," but as a "style." The right choice of shoes will change depending on the style in which you wear them. You could call it a kind of diversification. In this current context, the lineup of Regal Tokyo seemed particularly appealing to me.

What's most striking is its wide range of offerings. They produce a truly diverse range of shoes, from bespoke shoes made by craftsmen to atelier-made 9/10 tailored shoes, factory-made pattern orders, and ready-to-wear shoes, and of course, their lineup includes everything from classic dress shoes to casual leather shoes.

The leather they use is of extremely high quality. They carry a wide range of world-renowned leather brands, including cordovan from Shinki Leather and suede from Charles F. Stead. Moreover, the cost performance is excellent. I thought it was a wonderful balance.

In terms of fitting, it doesn't offer the same perfect fit as bespoke shoes. However, I think it has the versatility to fit a wide range of foot shapes. In other words, like Brooks Brothers ' sack suits or Alden 's arch support system, I felt a design philosophy that pursued the "optimal solution for everyone," and I resonated with that.

Regal is an American brand, but it has become a national shoe brand in Japan. Incidentally, it is one of the few Japanese shoe manufacturers to be publicly listed. It's so popular that I hadn't really noticed its appeal, but I think its wide range and stability, typical of a large corporation, are a perfect fit for today's diverse shoe market. By the way, at the "ISETAN Leather Fair 2023" starting on September 20th, there will also be a bridge order event for Regal Tokyo [※September 27th (Wed) - October 3rd (Tue)] and the belt brand Fowler. I think being able to order shoes and belts from the same leather is something unique to the Leather Fair.

The "ISETAN Leather Fair 2023," which will be held from September 20th, will be a valuable opportunity not only to see the products but also to communicate with experienced stylists, including Kagami.

"ISETAN Leather Fair 2023"

The "Shoe Fair," which was a huge success until last year, is back and better than ever to celebrate the 20th anniversary Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building ! It will be reborn as the "Leather Fair," encompassing not only shoes but also bags and leather goods. In addition to the bag order event introduced here, we will be welcoming customers with a packed schedule of bespoke shoes, shoes with amazing cost performance, a shoe shine event, and a special pop-up in collaboration with vintage shop Safari. The event will run from September 20th (Wed) to October 3rd (Tue) Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building in the Promotion and Leather Goods areas on the 1st floor and the Men's Shoes and Bags areas on the basement floor.

Click here for the special feature page.

▼View the ISETAN Leather Fair 2023 special feature page▼