[Autumn/Winter 2023] A thorough explanation of V-zone trends! How to choose the latest ties and shirts.

This autumn marks the start of a full-fledged fashion season in the post-COVID era. Many people are likely rediscovering the joy of dressing up while organizing their closets. And that brings to mind the allure of the tie-up style. In an era where going tie-less is the norm even in business settings, why not enjoy fashion by deliberately wearing a tie? Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , will help you create a wide range of V-zone styles, from authentic to the latest.

  1. This autumn's V-zone is about rediscovering the joy of dressing up.
  2. Necktie Trend 1: Base Colors are Subtle, Rich Tones
  3. Necktie Trend #2: Reissued Archive Patterns (Not quite Vintage)
  4. Necktie Trend 3: Medium-scale small patterns that highlight individuality
  5. Shirt Trend 1: Classic yet "de-classic" dress shirts
  6. Shirt Trend 2: Casual shirts that can also be worn with a tie.
  7. Shirt Trend #3: Colored Stripes for More Enjoyable Tie-Pairing
  8. Introducing the latest V-zone coordination that expands your styling options!
    1. V-zone coordination 1: Pair a navy suit with a navy tie in a nuanced color.
    2. V-zone coordination 2: Playing with British gentlemanly colors and patterns to enjoy a gray suit
    3. V-zone coordination 3: Mix tie-up focusing on materials as well as colors and patterns.

This autumn's V-zone is about rediscovering the joy of dressing up.


Due to the lack of new trends from overseas during the pandemic, men's fashion trends, which had previously been dominated by Italian classics, are now seeing new developments such as a genuine return to classic styles and a resurgence of British trends. While dress clothes are becoming more casual, the range of ways to enjoy fashion by wearing a tie has broadened.

One reason for this trend is the increasing demand for suits and jackets outside of business settings. For example, there seems to be a greater desire to dress stylishly for large parties and restaurant dinners, which were less common during the pandemic. For adult men, wearing a tie is essential for a stylish look.

Therefore, we've analyzed this season's tie-up style from the perspective of tie and shirt trends. We'll explore how to choose a tie that's in line with this season's trends, as well as the shirts that form the base of those ties, and then present our style suggestions from Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building showing how to combine them with suits and jackets to create a stylish V-zone look.

Necktie Trend 1: Base Colors are Subtle, Rich Tones

From left

Altea Plain Ties - ¥14,300 each (View Product)

STEFANO BIGI tie, 22,000 yen. View product.

STEFANO BIGI tie, 22,000 yen. View product.

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Muted, nuanced colors continue to be a trend this season. With British-inspired materials like tweed and flannel being featured in outerwear, it might be easier to understand if we say these are similar color palettes. Warm colors are predominantly grayish tones, while cool colors have a muted, ash-toned look, reminiscent of traditional Japanese colors. These are easy-to-choose colors, offering a calm and sophisticated autumnal feel.

stefanobigi 's small-patterned ties, based on these nuanced colors, exude an antique mood in their patterns and hues. Even the solid-colored ties from Altea have a sense of gravitas, emphasizing a dignified and reliable masculine image. Therefore, when enjoyed as a fashion statement, they create a British gentlemanly look, and when incorporated into business attire, they create a V-zone coordination that expresses status.

Necktie Trend #2: Reissued Archive Patterns (Not quite Vintage)

All Hill&Drake ties, ¥29,700 each.

View Products



▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store


Following on from the trend of nuanced colors mentioned earlier, patterns that revive past archives are being increasingly used. These aren't so old that they could be called vintage; they're colors and patterns from the 70s and 80s, the kind our fathers' generation might have worn, or patterns that you might still be able to find if you dig deep enough in your closet—a collection of nostalgic yet fresh colors and patterns.
The archives of Hill & Drake, known as the predecessor of Drake's date back to the 1980s. Unlike the delicate patterns created using computers, the jacquard patterns, with their hand-woven threads, are reminiscent of the V-zones of 1980s DC and power suits. They have gone to great lengths to select colors and patterns that do not appear in modern inline models, and have even reproduced the tags from that era. Other popular brands such as Brewer and Franco Bassi are also offering archive patterns.


Necktie Trend 3: Medium-scale small patterns that highlight individuality

From left

altea/Altea necktie ¥14,300 View product

Francesco Marino tie, ¥19,800. View product.

altea/Altea necktie ¥14,300 View product

Francesco Marino tie, ¥19,800. View product.

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

For the past few seasons, large patterns have been popular for neckties, but this season there's been a shift towards slightly more subdued, medium-scale designs. The patterns range from 1.5-2.0cm in diameter, like the archive paisley and small patterns I mentioned earlier, to 1cm in diameter, as shown here. What's different this season isn't just the scale of the pattern, but also the pitch scale, which has a larger proportion of background color.

Italian komon patterns, such as those by Altea of Milan and Francesco Marino of Naples, have shifted from the traditionally intricate small-scale designs to medium-scale floral patterns. The color palette also includes the previously mentioned nuanced colors. With a slightly more retro feel than the previous small-scale komon patterns, these will surely make your personality stand out when worn around the neck.


View the list of recommended ties for Autumn/Winter 2023 at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online.


Shirt Trend 1: Classic yet "de-classic" dress shirts

From left

LES LESTON Striped Shirt ¥36,300 View Product

Budd dress shirt ¥59,400 View product

Turnbull & Asser dress shirt ¥52,800 View product

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Dress shirts have long been Italy's exclusive domain. With wide or cutaway collars and soft collar stays, it was said that "handmade shirts that carry on the lineage of classic Italian style are the shirts of all shirts." However, while the classic feel remains, interest seems to be shifting towards "post-classic brands." Some may feel a sense of nostalgia when they see collar stays attached to the collar points.

British brand TURNBULL&ASSER is characterized by its unique S-shaped collar curve known as the "Turnbull cut." Bud from Jermyn Street is making its debut in Japan. The selection of LES LESTON , a shirt workshop in Nakanoshima, Osaka, as a Japanese craft shirt also reflects this season's theme of "moving beyond classic style."

Shirt Trend 2: Casual shirts that can also be worn with a tie.

From left

Errico Formicola dress shirt: ¥34,100

JAKES button-down shirts: ¥44,000 each. View product.

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Amidst the global trend towards casualization in men's fashion, dress clothing is undergoing a significant transformation. While pairing a tailored jacket with a casual shirt without a tie is commonplace, choosing a casual shirt even when wearing a tie seems to be a particularly trendy choice this autumn.

Anticipating this trend, many dress shirt brands are releasing casual shirts. Errico Formicola from Naples has released a semi-round collar shirt with rounded collar points, giving it a feminine and elegant feel. Jake's, a rising shirtmaker from London, has also quickly made its debut at ISETAN MEN'S .

Shirt Trend #3: Colored Stripes for More Enjoyable Tie-Pairing

From left

Errico Formicola Cleric Shirt ¥34,100

ISETAN MEN'S Striped Shirt ¥25,300 View Product

Emanuel Berg Striped Shirt ¥22,000 View Product

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Matching the colors of your shirt and tie is crucial for creating a stylish V-zone. While a plain white shirt can make the tie stand out, this autumn, it's a good idea to deliberately choose a colored or patterned shirt to combine with it. In that case, it's best to choose basic colored stripes or multi-colored stripes rather than flashy colors.

The cleric shirt, which has made a comeback in the trends after a long time, is featured here with a tab collar from Errico Formicola. Multicolored stripes have also been selected from Emmanuel Berg, a Polish shirt manufacturer that is attracting attention from leading shops around the world, and from ISETAN MEN'S original shirts.


View the list of recommended shirts for Fall/Winter 2023 at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online.




Introducing the latest V-zone coordination that expands your styling options!

V-zone coordination 1: Pair a navy suit with a navy tie in a nuanced color.

【combination】
・Tie: Nuance colors
Shirt: White



TAGLIATORE suit ¥155,100 View product

Turnbull & Asser dress shirt ¥52,800 View product

altea/Altea necktie ¥14,300 View product

MUNGAI Pocket Square ¥8,800 View Product

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store


Navy suits, a staple of dress wear and a standard of business style, are typically paired with navy ties that are close in color to the suit, or ties in contrasting colors. This autumn, however, a slightly muted, nuanced shade of navy, even within the same color family, is a stylish choice. Colors reminiscent of traditional Japanese colors, such as "ultramarine," "iron navy," and "double green," suit Japanese skin tones and exude a sense of mature composure. When paired with a plain white shirt as a frame, it should fit seamlessly into the chest area of your existing navy suit.



V-zone coordination 2: Playing with British gentlemanly colors and patterns to enjoy a gray suit

【combination】
・Necktie: Archive pattern
Shirt: Blue stripes


ISETAN MEN'S suit: 110,000 yen (scheduled for release in mid-September)

Emanuel Berg Striped Shirt ¥22,000 View Product

Hill&Drake necktie: ¥29,700 *Scheduled for release in early October

STEFANO CAU Pocket Square ¥7,700 View Product

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

Gray suits, with their formal image, are often worn in a conventional way. However, a neutral gray suit is also a valuable suit that allows for playful styling of the V-zone. So, I chose an archive-style tie with a colored pattern to create a classic look that is perfect for this autumn. I paired a simple paisley tie with a blue striped shirt. The grayish green of the tie blends seamlessly with the suit, while the blue stripes of the shirt provide a contrasting element. This kind of outfit is reminiscent of a British gentleman on London's Jermyn Street, a style that stands in stark contrast to conventionality.



V-zone coordination 3: Mix tie-up focusing on materials as well as colors and patterns.

【combination】
・Necktie: Medium-scale small pattern
Shirt: Colored button-down shirt



DE PETRILLO jacket ¥191,400 View product

JAKES button-down shirt ¥44,000 View product

Francesco Marino tie, ¥19,800. View product.

Dieffe Kinloch Pocket Square - ¥14,300 (View Product)

▢Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor: Shirts, Ties, Seasonal Goods / Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store

When wearing a tie with a jacket and trousers, the compatibility with the trousers is a crucial point. This time, aiming for an Italian casual jacket style, I've proposed a tie-up that incorporates a traditional look, which is also on-trend, for the bottoms. The tie is a grayish pink base with a medium-scale floral pattern. The material is silk, and the yellow button-down shirt is Oxford. The freshness comes from the three-dimensional mix of textures aimed at the slightly brushed cashmere blend jacket. The subtle trick of slightly shifting the narrow end of the tie also creates a sophisticated impression.


View the list of recommended ties for Autumn/Winter 2023 at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online.

View the list of recommended shirts for Fall/Winter 2023 at Mitsukoshi Isetan Online.

Isetan Men's Tailored Clothing Instagram is here
Related article: [Feature] Why ISETAN MEN'S store's "custom shirts" are a little different from others
[Necktie Encyclopedia] From tying techniques to recommended neckties at ISETAN MEN'S store, everything you need to know!


*All prices include tax.
*The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
photo:Tatsuya Ozawa (Studio Mug)

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