This year, from Wednesday, July 5th to Tuesday, July 18th, Isetan Shinjuku will be hosting " Watch Collectors Week ." This event offers a wide selection of top-quality luxury watches from renowned domestic and international manufacturers and popular watch brands. However, Ueno, the buyer in charge of the event, says, "We don't use the term 'luxury watches'." To find out what he means by that, ISETAN MEN'S net editor-in-chief Seki spoke with him.

The reason why Isetan doesn't call them "luxury watches."

Generally, "luxury watches" would refer to complication watches equipped with complex mechanisms requiring advanced technology, such as perpetual calendars and tourbillons, or jewelry watches with gold cases adorned with diamonds. However, Isetan's watch buyer, Ueno, says, "We don't use the term 'luxury' watches."

Is it really correct to call an expensive watch "luxury" simply by looking at its price? Which is more "luxury": a mechanical watch costing several million yen, handcrafted with high precision and a complex structure, or a quartz watch costing several hundred thousand yen, with an innovative design, excellent legibility, and superior wearability?

Buyer Ueno's answer was this:

"From a watchmaking perspective, we refer to high-quality watches that excel in design and functionality, possess the durability to be used for generations without being affected by trends, as 'fine watchmaking.'"


Ueno says that these watches feature timeless designs that are loved across generations, innovative designs that don't become fleeting trends, and ergonomic designs that offer excellent wearability. Of course, there's no denying that the latest mechanisms in complicated watches are also wonderful. All of these are undeniably examples of "fine watchmaking" and "good watches."

An approach that combines both design and functionality.

Taiki Seki (hereinafter, Seki): I understand the concept of "fine watchmaking." A "good watch" can't be judged solely by its price, can it?

Shota Ueno (hereinafter, Ueno): That's right. Among experts and enthusiasts, there's a lot of talk about performance, precision, and specifications, but I'd also like to talk more about the design and wearability.

Seki: A watch with a great design can also be called a "good watch."

Ueno: Many customers who visit our store say things like, "It looks cool!" or "I want to wear it every day," before making a purchase. So, we believe that a "good watch" should be one that is easy to use, that you want to wear every day, and that makes you feel good when you wear it.

Seki: Good suits and shoes are stress-free to wear. And wearing them lifts your spirits.


Ueno: I think the same applies to cars. Not only the engine, but also the exterior and interior are important, and it's also important that it's fun to drive and doesn't tire you out.

Seki: So, both design and functionality are important for a product, right?

Ueno: Not only are we focusing on the latest releases, but there are also models that aren't often featured in new releases, as well as older models that deserve to be re-evaluated now. From this broad perspective, I'd like to introduce them in two categories: design and function.

ISETAN Watch Collectors Week focuses on Japanese watches.

Seki: This year marks the 11th Watch Collectors Week. Unlike previous World Watch Fairs, this is not a showcase of new models, but rather a collection of "fine watchmaking" selected by Isetan Shinjuku. Could you tell us about your aspirations and points of interest for this year's event?

Ueno: I'd like you to pay attention not only to Isetan Shinjuku's focus on the function and design of a "good watch," but also to the re-evaluation of Japanese-made watches.

Seki: I hear that Japanese watches are highly regarded in the global watch industry right now. What do you think is the reason for that?

Ueno: It's the uncompromising quality and precision. The innovative designs, the elegant and dignified designs, and the reliable functionality that they achieve are on par with overseas manufacturers, and their unwavering watchmaking is being re-evaluated. Grand Seiko in particular is being praised for both its quality and design, and its popularity is growing overseas more than in Japan, and now its momentum is returning to Japan once again.

Seki: In the fashion world, too, Japanese designers have been gaining popularity in Japan more and more in recent years after receiving high praise overseas. We Japanese should also be proud to recommend Japanese products to the world.

Ueno: There are many other overseas manufacturers that produce "good watches" that incorporate ideas and mechanisms that you wouldn't think of in Japanese product design. I've selected a few of them and would like to introduce them to you.

►Click here for a list of articles from "Watch Collectors Week"

Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa (Studio Mug)

＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.