From Wednesday, October 5th, the Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 1st floor promotion will host "THE COAT." Focusing on themes such as "Next Vintage," "Archives," and "Masterpiece," the event will bring together timeless classic coats that you'll want to wear forever.

One of the approaches, "Archives," will feature numerous classic coats, thanks to the full cooperation of "Safari," a popular vintage clothing store in Koenji.

In this episode, Safari's renowned store manager, Yusuke Tajima, and buyer Inaba, who himself is a frequent visitor to Safari, discuss the appeal of vintage coats from their archives in preparation for the upcoming event.

▶Read the related article: "A collection of masterpiece coats themed around 'clothes you can wear for a lifetime'! 'The COAT' promotion held."

Why buyer Inaba visits vintage clothing stores

Koenji is a town frequented by vintage clothing enthusiasts. With shops specializing in American casual, military, European vintage, and outdoor wear, each offering a carefully curated selection of goods, it's said that even renowned international designers secretly visit the area to find inspiration.

Safari is a popular store with six locations in Koenji. Among the various categories of clothing sold at each store, Mr. Tajima, who manages the 3rd and 5th stores that specialize in Euro vintage clothing, is a person with many fans who frequently appear in the media due to his extensive knowledge and gentle personality. Tomohiro Inaba, a buyer at Isetan Shinjuku, is one of them.


"Our collaboration with Safari began four years ago when they exhibited at the Shoe Expo. I've always been a big fan of Safari, and I used to sneak in to check them out on my days off. I even became friends with the store manager, Yusuke Tajima, and we've had meals together. I had always hoped we could do something together someday, and we're delighted that they've agreed to participate in our coat event." (Inaba)

Safari's third store is famous for its selection of high-quality used dress shoes from prestigious brands, attracting shoe enthusiasts from all over the world. They will also be exhibiting at "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2022," held from September 21st to October 4th this year, and plan to offer a large number of rare deadstock items and brand shoes not available domestically.

Inaba, who specializes in men's clothing, became captivated by Safari's selection of vintage clothing, including not only dress shoes but also suits, jackets, shirts, and ties. As he frequented Koenji, he began to feel that recent fashion trends and European vintage clothing were crossing over.


"Recently, men's clothing often features a unique vintage feel, not only in terms of colors, patterns, and material textures, but also in silhouettes and styling. I myself wear vintage coats with suits, and I often see customers on the 5th floor mixing designer clothes with vintage pieces. On social media, I've been seeing a lot of well-dressed people skillfully incorporating vintage clothing into their outfits, and I feel that vintage clothing has become a very familiar presence." (Inaba)


Indeed, the oversized silhouette, a recent trend, is reminiscent of the lengths and sleeve lengths of the past, and garment dyeing and product washing recreate the worn-in feel and character of vintage clothing using modern technology. While manufacturers are desperately trying to reproduce fabric colors and patterns from old archives, and even recreate old-fashioned weaving and yarn twisting techniques, it makes sense to focus on the reality that the real thing possesses. Safari's Tajima calmly analyzes the current state of vintage clothing.

"The vintage clothing that used to be considered unfashionable is now recognized as a fashion item. The dropped shoulder raglan sleeves, the silhouette that doesn't cinch the waist, and the length of the garments are all very modern. Our customers range in age from young fashion enthusiasts in their 20s to people in their 50s and 60s who have experience with tailored clothing. In addition, the vintage market has seen a recent surge in prices, and I feel that it's overheating both in terms of market value and actual prices." (Mr. Tajima)


Two seemingly incompatible businesses—a vintage clothing store and a department store—have joined forces in the Reiwa era. Expectations are high for "THE COAT," a store showcasing "authentic coats" for fashion enthusiasts, to see what masterpieces will be on display.

 

A collection of exquisite coats, only available at Safari.

Inaba : Thanks to Safari's cooperation, we're able to introduce some classic coats from yesteryear in "THE COAT."

Tajima: I've collaborated with the shoe exhibition before, but this is my first time handling the closing.

Inaba: Mr. Tajima has also cooperated with us for this year's shoe fair, so he'll be coming to Isetan Shinjuku store for almost a month (laughs). I hear he'll be exhibiting some pretty rare coats at this event.

I'd like to bring some classic British coats from brands like Mackintosh, Barbour , and Invertere, which are very popular at Tajima's store.

British-made coats are very popular at the Inaba ISETAN MEN'S store. The first coat I bought after joining the company was an Aquascutum trench coat. I still wear it today.

Tajima 's British-made coats prioritize practicality, so the materials are tough and they last a long time. Even used ones are often in good condition.

I think this is a coat you can wear for a lifetime. And, both in the past and present, best-selling coats are actually classics. The silhouette and materials may be updated little by little, but the basic design remains unchanged.


Perhaps it's because it's Tajima that some people are interested in vintage clothing. Bal collars and trench coats are still popular, and in recent years, duffel coats have also become increasingly popular.

Before Inaba , slim-fitting, short-length coats were in fashion, but recently, looser silhouettes have returned, haven't they? In that case, people might be starting to think that older coats that have been worn in and developed a nice patina are great.

Tajima: Raglan sleeves, which have dropped shoulders, can also be worn in a modern silhouette, right? After all, raglan sleeves originated in the UK.

Inaba wool coats can look great once the oil has worn off, and the texture of a Barbour jacket after the oil has faded also has its own charm. You often see stylish Italians wearing them with classic suits.

I was just thinking about introducing you to Tajima Barbour, as they have some quite rare models. Because they were originally work clothes for dockworkers, they are highly durable, which is why some of the rare models are still available.


Just looking around Inaba's store, you can tell it's full of treasures. To be honest, I'd rather try on a bunch of things than do this interview (laughs), but could you please introduce some of the coats that will be on display at the event?

A rare coat collection found in the archives

Barbour is currently a prestigious brand holding a Royal Warrant, a mark of royal patronage, but this "Moorland" model has a white tag without the warrant. It is a rare collector's item, predating the switch to the black tag with the warrant in the 1950s.



The "International" set, designed as a riding coat for bikers, comes with bottoms made of the same waxed cotton as the coat. The team logo is printed on the chest, suggesting it was a model intended for motorcycle racers speeding through the rain.


This is a long-established factory brand founded in 1904. The substantial herringbone tweed is from a 90s model, but it has lost its luster nicely, giving it a character that you can't get with a new garment. The drape of the raglan sleeves and the long length that falls below the knee give it a trendy feel that is in line with today's big silhouettes.




This brand has a history of over half a century as a long-established manufacturer of duffel coats. This duffel coat is believed to be a model from the late 1970s. The toggles are made of buffalo horn, and the loops are fitted with leather cords, and the condition is so good that it doesn't look its age. The black watch pattern, which is expressed through weaving, is also a rare feature of this model.

[Click here for the event article]
►・A collection of masterpiece coats themed around "clothes you can wear for a lifetime"! "The COAT" promotion event is being held.

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Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
Photo: Natsuko Okada

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For inquiries, please contact Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Men's Tailored Clothing. Tel: 03-3352-1111 (Main number). For email inquiries, please click here.