2022.09.23 update

[Series] Japan's world-class leather shoes | Part 5: What is Otsuka Shoe Co., Japan's oldest shoe manufacturer?

The Japan Shoe Manufacturers Association is a non-profit organization that works to provide and promote high-quality leather shoes that are suited to Japan's climate and the feet of Japanese people. We will explore the companies that participate in this organization, looking at their history, notable topics, and classic items.

This time, we're featuring Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., Japan's oldest existing leather shoe manufacturer with a history spanning 150 years. We'll delve into the roots of Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., which has specialized in inner-laced straight-tip shoes since its founding.

* Otsuka Shoe Company building from the Meiji era. Image by Otsuka Shoe Company.

The History of Otsuka Shoe Company

Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. was founded in 1872 in Rogetsu-cho, Shinbashi, Tokyo, by Iwajiro Otsuka, who is called the father of the shoe industry. This year marks the 150th anniversary of the company's founding, making it Japan's oldest leather shoe manufacturer. The company quickly established itself as a leading leather shoe manufacturer, winning the top prize at the 1877 National Industrial Exhibition and a silver medal at the 1889 Paris World's Fair. At the time, Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. shoes were considered luxury items that could only be worn by those of the rank of Major General or higher in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, or by those who frequented the Rokumeikan, a building constructed as a venue for diplomacy. In 1924, the company introduced Goodyear welt shoemaking machinery, transitioning from handcrafted manufacturing to factory-based machine production. In recent years, the company has continued to expand its business, including opening "Shoe Manufactures [Otsuka]" in Roppongi Hills in 2012.


*Shoe Manufacturers [Otsuka] (Roppongi Hills 4th Floor) Image by Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.


*Label attached to the shoebox. The top displays the awards won worldwide in the 1800s. Image by Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

*Founder of Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.: Iwajiro Otsuka (1858-1925) Image by Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

Topics of interest

This article introduces noteworthy topics from Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., Japan's oldest leather shoe manufacturer, which boasts a rich tradition and history. We will explore the roots of the inner-laced straight-tip shoe, which can be considered an icon of Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

A straight-tip oxford shoe with roots in the former Imperial Japanese Navy.


Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., which has specialized in closed-laced leather shoes, has been supplying military boots to the Ministry of the Navy since the time of its founder, Iwajiro Otsuka I. It is said that this was due to the fact that the then Minister of the Navy, Gonbei Yamamoto, was a customer of Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. and trusted their technology. The Navy's military boots adopted the closed-laced style, which was used by the British Navy, because it was easy to prevent water from entering. The details that were incorporated into the old Navy's military boots at that time have evolved and been carried on in the straight-tip shoes of modern Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

*Otsuka M-5 "M5-300" Image by Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

Knowing the classics: The quintessential straight-tip oxford shoe, the "OTSUKA M-5"


Among the many oxford straight-tip shoes that Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. excels at, the OTSUKA M-5 "M5-300" and "M5-309" are particularly culminating in their high level of craftsmanship. Both models of oxford straight-tip shoes are produced by hand at the company's headquarters factory in Tokyo, but the difference lies in the sole: the "M5-300" has a leather sole, while the "M5-309" has a Dainite sole. Furthermore, attention has been paid to the design and details of the last (shoe mold), taking into account Japanese culture, lifestyle, and foot shape. The last is finished with a clean look by narrowing the waist with a naturally elongated nose. The heel, which is the most worn part in Japan due to frequent putting on and taking off of shoes, is reinforced with "half-double stitching," and the base of the wingtip, where the instep flexes, is reinforced with "shako-dome," pursuing durability that will allow the shoes to be worn for a long time. The person in charge commented, "We value unique Japanese shoemaking that is not simply an imitation of the West. From the time of our founding to the present day, Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.'s passion for oxford straight-tip shoes has not changed."

*Otsuka M-5 "M5-300" Image by Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd.

What is the "Japan Footwear Manufacturers Association," in which Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd. participates?

The Japan Shoe Manufacturers Association was established in 1950. In 1992, its name was changed to "Japan Shoe Manufacturers Association," and in 2006, it was reorganized into a non-profit organization, "Japan Shoe Manufacturers Association." With the aim of providing and promoting high-quality leather shoes that are suited to the Japanese climate and the feet of Japanese people, the association engages in a wide range of activities, including providing information and consultations on the quality and use of leather shoes, establishing standards for leather shoes (JIS), consumer consultations, conducting research on the shoe manufacturing industry overseas, and addressing environmental issues that arise in the manufacturing process. Currently, a total of 10 companies participate, including Otsuka Shoe Co., Ltd., Toritsu Shoe Co., Ltd., Haruta, Madras, MoonStar, and Regal Corporation.

Related Article ▶ "ISETAN Shoe Fair 2022" Announced! Popular limited-edition items and shoes that are sure to sell out will be on display. A powered-up 14 days are coming! [Updated September 14th (Wed)]

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