In an era where opportunities to wear suits are said to be decreasing, the market share for custom-made suits is growing more than that of ready-made suits. This means that suits are becoming costumes that express individuality, rather than uniforms for work. The fabric is what determines the individuality and look of a suit, but there are so many types that it can be difficult for beginners to choose. So, the staff of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , who are all experts in custom-made suits despite their different roles as merchandisers, buyers, and stylists, will each highlight their favorite fabrics.

1. If I had to name the "ultimate ordinary suit fabric," it would be Kunishima.

Otsuka: My personal recommendation is the wool fabric from Kunishima, a wool textile manufacturer in Bishu. Even when I'm serving customers in the store, many feel that bespoke suits are intimidating, but with Kunishima fabric, you can have a suit made starting from 69,000 yen (excluding tax), so I think it's an affordable price that even first-timers can easily try.

Yamagata: People who are ordering a custom suit for the first time are often concerned about their budget, so Kunishima is a good choice to recommend.

Otsuka : Even though the price is reasonable, that doesn't mean the quality is subpar. It has a nice sheen and I think it's a good quality fabric that makes for a suit-like finish.

Yamagata: We can tailor trousers at about the same price as INCOTEX and other brands, so we sometimes recommend custom-made trousers using this fabric to customers who come looking for ready-made trousers, and this type of request is well-received.

Taniguchi: While ordering a custom-made suit can seem daunting, there are many cases where people are willing to have just a pair of trousers tailored.

Kagami: Kunishima's light gray and medium gray are always popular choices, but it's rare to see such a beautiful gray fabric at this price. It looks nice, has just the right amount of durability, and is perhaps the "ultimate ordinary fabric" with a perfect balance.

Otsuka: Even people who say, "I don't know anything about the quality of fabrics," often intuitively feel that Kunishima fabrics are "beautiful." I want people to know that there are domestically produced fabrics of this quality.

Yamagata: The sheen and color are not too strong, not too deep, and not too flashy, yet it looks good, so I recommend custom-made suits from Kunishima to customers who come looking for suits for entrance exams.

2. For elegant summer attire, choose linen from Spence Bryson.

Yamagata: If Kunishima is in the cost-performance category, then I chose Spence Bryson linen fabric from a "fashion" perspective.

Taniguchi: When it comes to elegant summer suits, linen is the way to go, isn't it?

Yamagata: When a customer came in who already owned a full range of gray and navy suits, I suggested a brown linen suit as a fashion suit, saying, "Having a suit in a color that's not commonly seen in your closet will really stand out." The finished product looked great, and the customer was very pleased.

Taniguchi: Do you often recommend Spence Bryson to customers who are looking for linen fabrics?

Yamagata: That's right. There are many color variations to choose from, so it's fun to pick one out, and when it comes to linen, it's Spence Bryson, so I can confidently recommend it in terms of quality.

Otsuka: Fabrics like linen, which are only worn during the summer season, have a unique look and feel, so they appeal to customers who change their suit fabrics each season.

Kagami: While linen fabric isn't exclusive to Spence Bryson, a characteristic of this manufacturer is the large, horizontal wrinkles that form. Linen that wrinkles vertically tends to curl, causing the vents to curl up, which isn't very stylish. The way the color fades is also exquisite, so I think it's a plus that it becomes more appealing the more you wear it.

Taniguchi: With Spence Bryson, a custom-made suit starts at around 160,000 yen, right? There are other manufacturers that offer lower prices, but if you want to avoid curling and enjoy the unique texture of linen in a suit, then it's worth choosing Spence Bryson, even if it's a bit more expensive.

3. Comfortable and refined: Toregno's "3D WOOL"

Taniguchi: The one I chose is Toregno's "3D WOOL." Until recently, stretchability was treated as an option for suit fabrics, but now it's standard on both overseas and domestic products. People who have been wearing suits for many years tend to think of stretch as an artificial fabric, but there are now a lot more high-quality fabrics that look and feel just like natural materials.

Kagami: What's great about Toregno's "3D WOOL" is that it doesn't just stay stretched out, but tries to return to its original shape properly, so the knees are less likely to sag. The biggest difference between today's stretches and those of the past might be that the fabric isn't just about stretching.

Taniguchi: Doesn't the name "3D WOOL" appeal to you? (laughs)

Yamagata: In terms of fabric quality alone, I think suits are becoming more comfortable to wear.

Taniguchi: For those who avoid suits because they find them stiff and tiring, I would recommend ordering a suit made with modern stretch fabric.

Otsuka: "3D WOOL" is a fabric I personally like, so I often recommend it. Although it contains a small amount of polyurethane, the texture is comparable to 100% wool fabric, so it looks sharp. And yet it's comfortable to wear, so it's easy to convey the quality of the fabric to customers.

4. At Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building the "QZ2" by Hardy Minnis is a popular choice among repeat customers.

Kagami: In my experience serving customers, Hardy Minnis' "QZ2" is the fabric that customers often come back to say, "I want to have another suit made with that fabric."

Yamagata: What is your reason for wanting to visit us again?

Kagami: I believe that the value a department store's custom-made suit should offer is "trust," and the ability to have a long-term relationship with the suit is an important element. Therefore, I always recommend it to customers who want to cherish and wear one suit for many years, and I believe that Hardy Minnis' "QZ2" is what makes that possible. If I were to recommend a fabric that would need to be replaced soon, I would be undermining their trust.

Otsuka: Many customers at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building are first-time customers when it comes to ordering a custom suit. Thankfully, it seems they come to us saying, "Let's leave it to Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building " and I think that's a sign of trust.

Taniguchi: For those new to ordering custom suits, I think it's perfectly fine to start by enjoying the process of choosing the fabric. There's absolutely nothing wrong with having a suit made simply because "this fabric is beautiful and looks great."

Otsuka: Choosing the fabric isn't everything when it comes to bespoke suits, but the feeling of "I want to wear a suit made from this fabric" is something unique to bespoke suits, isn't it? That's an idea you can't have with a brand's ready-made collection.

Yamagata: First of all, the fabric of the custom-made suits that we wear when serving customers must serve as a sample and example for our customers.

Taniguchi: That's impressive, you're very thorough.

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*Masks are removed only during filming.
＊All prices include tax.
＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

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