"Six years have passed since my grandfather passed away, and while sorting through his belongings, I found a suit and kimono in my favorite colors and patterns. I was wondering if they could be altered to fit me," inquired 24-year-old Asaya Hosho at Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . He currently works for the Self-Defense Forces, but he is the eldest son of Kinya Hosho, the 13th head of the Shimogakari Hosho school of Noh, a traditional Japanese performing art. Mr. Nakamura, a fitter at the clothing alteration specialist shop "Sarto," made a special trip to the Shimogakari Hosho school's practice hall after hearing the request. So, what kind of suit and kimono will they find?

[Custom Order Edition] I feel like I heard someone say, "I want my grandson Asaya to wear this."

Asaya Hosho (hereinafter, Hosho): I'd like you to see the suit and kimono that my grandfather left behind, Mr. Nakamura. Is it difficult to remake the kimono?

Shunsuke Nakamura (hereinafter, Nakamura): Remaking kimonos into Western-style clothing has become increasingly popular recently. Kimonos have many beautiful colors and patterns, so many people come to us for advice because they "can't bring themselves to throw them away" or "it would be a waste."

Hosho: I don't think I'd have many opportunities to wear it as a kimono, but since it's made of silk and has an elegant small pattern, I think I'd cherish it and wear it often if it were remade into Western-style clothing.

Nakamura: It's a crisp fabric, so how about an open-collar shirt? I'd like to use the leftover fabric for accessories and remake it, making full use of even the navy lining. The kimono and suit you showed me are in good condition, but what kind of grandfather was he?

Hosho: My grandfather was the twelfth head of the family, and he was very strict on stage and during rehearsals, but he was also a person who loved active things and having fun, like golf and skiing, and that was what made him a very human person. For me, he was a grandfather I was proud of, who knew a lot of interesting things. People who knew my grandfather often say that Asaya looks a lot like Sensei Kan, and when you look at pictures of my grandfather when he was young, they really do look alike.


Hosho: I was surprised to find so many suits among his belongings, since he usually wore kimonos, but when I looked closely, I realized that his taste in suit colors and patterns was similar to mine, which made me realize how strong blood ties are.

Nakamura: He must have been someone who liked modern and stylish things. The suit you brought with you appears to have been custom-made. I can see his attention to detail.

When remaking an item, it's important to have an image of "what kind of scene I'd like to wear this in."

Nakamura: Ms. Hosho, what kind of image do you have of your own fashion and style? I'd like some hints for the remake project.

Hosho: Earlier you mentioned "open-collar shirts," and I do like old things. However, if they're exactly like the old ones, it would look like cosplay, so I'd be happy if they were modern vintage style collared shirts.

Nakamura: It's clear from looking at Mr. Hosho's cars and motorcycles that he has a fondness for old things. It's been a long time since I last saw the Isuzu 117 Coupe, which is considered a masterpiece representing Japanese cars of the 1970s.


Hosho: The 117 Coupe is a car designed by the Italian designer Giugiaro, and when I drive it, I often wear "Italian-style clothes." My motorcycle is a 1942 British-made ROYAL ENFIELD, the world's oldest motorcycle brand, and when I ride it, I dress in a "British country style." Now that I think about it, I choose my clothes to match the vehicle I'm using.


Nakamura: That's a great hint. I can now picture the alterations! Later, we'll take your measurements and adjust the suit, so please imagine yourself riding your favorite car or motorcycle and let us know your requests.

Hosho: Actually, my grandfather also loved cars and motorcycles. I respect my grandfather for his work in the performing arts, but I think I'm now learning from him, the charismatic person who always knew about interesting things.

Once you have a clear image in mind, you can then consider the specific direction of the "remake."

Nakamura: So, I'd like to suggest taking the kimono apart and making an open-collar shirt out of it. I'd also like to make a tie and pocket square with the remaining fabric.


Nakamura: The shirt hem can be worn tucked in or out, and it has long sleeves so it can be worn in all seasons except mid-summer. We'll add a navy lining to the inside of the sleeve cuffs so that it can be rolled up to create an accent.

Hosho: Do you get a lot of requests for suit remakes?

Nakamura: It's been increasing since the COVID-19 pandemic. There's the influence of global sustainability and SDGs, but for example, we're seeing more cases of bosses passing on suits they no longer wear to their subordinates, or daughters having their fathers' coats remade so they can wear them themselves. It's also a trend for women to wear men's items.

Hosho: Because it's a suit that your boss cherished and wore, the fabric is of high quality and it's been well cared for, so I think both the person giving it away and the person receiving it are looking for a "connection between people." There are many different ways of passing things down.

Nakamura: For the suit alterations, I'd like to take inspiration from Mr. Hosho's car and motorcycle, and while making the most of the best features of each, how about we make one suit Italian-style with the shoulder pads removed so it can be worn in casual settings, and the other suit a more traditional style that can be worn for work or formal occasions?

Measurement process

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Hosho: That's very easy to imagine. What's the most difficult thing about this kind of remake?

Nakamura: Since we're altering a finished product, it's important to clearly communicate to the customer what we can and cannot do. In particular, one of Mr. Hosho's suits is a custom-made item that incorporates his grandfather's body shape adjustments, so we can't alter it too drastically.

Temporary fastening complete

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Hosho: I see. But if you can alter it exactly as you envisioned and it becomes a garment you can wear, your grandfather will be happy too. I'm looking forward to it.

Nakamura: We'll be doing a fitting this time, so please look forward to it.

[Completion] The "heirloom repair" is complete. My feelings for my grandfather have taken shape!

Nakamura: First, regarding the first suit, I've altered it to a "British style" that can be worn even on formal occasions. For the jacket, I shortened the top, built up the shoulders a little, raised the V-line and gorge line, and slightly narrowed the waist to give it a more structured look. For the trousers, I tapered them from the waist to the knee hem. Please try it on!


Hosho: It fits my body perfectly. What was the most difficult part to alter?

Nakamura: Ms. Hosho has slightly bowed legs, so the center crease line of the pants tends to shift outwards, making it difficult to adjust it to be properly centered.

Hosho: What has changed since the fitting?

Nakamura: We've made fine adjustments down to the centimeter since the initial fitting, so I think the fit is much more comfortable.

Nakamura: The other suit is a bold "Italian style" suit. It gives off the impression of a "gentle older brother wearing a sharp suit," so the shoulders are not too stiff, and there are no pads or other auxiliary materials such as sleeve padding. The length from the shoulders has been shortened, the gorge line has been raised, and a roll has been added, so it has a three-dimensional look even when worn open. For the trousers, we added pleats to make them two-pleated in order to give them a relaxed feel.


Hosho: That's cool. This is the first time I've seen this kind of outfit. It has a 70s vintage feel to it, and it's a new frontier for me. I feel like I could drive a 117 Coupe and speed off in this outfit.

Nakamura: We've "intentionally" added some details to create a certain atmosphere, so I think it's perfect for casual occasions. Please wear the open-collar shirt in casual settings as well.


Hosho: This shirt turned out really well, it's amazing.

Nakamura: To make the most of the light and high-quality 100% silk fabric, we've made the collar opening wider and the hem square. Because the fabric is delicate, we've used navy kimono lining for the back and the inside of the cuffs. The tie and pocket square, with their elegant small patterns, also look beautiful.

Hosho: I'm so happy you used it for the lining too. This open-collar shirt and Gurkha shorts are definitely what I'll be wearing this summer.

The feeling of something coming back to you after passing it down through the ages is truly moving. There's something romantic about passing things down.

Nakamura: Now that you've finished trying them on, what are your thoughts?

Hosho: Before the alterations, since they were my grandfather's kimono and clothes, I felt like I was being worn by them, but I was amazed after they were remade. They felt comfortable even during the fitting, but when I tried on the finished product, I felt like they were truly mine. I'd give them 120 out of 100!

Nakamura: Thank you. Mr. Hosho, you were born into a family of traditional Japanese performing arts, so I'm sure you have many thoughts about "inheriting" these traditions.

Hosho: That's right. Actually, I'm retiring from the Self-Defense Forces in April next year and returning to the Shimogake Hosho school of Noh. When I joined the Self-Defense Forces, I realized that what the Self-Defense Forces (national defense) protect is Japan's culture and assets. Through that experience, when I thought about what I could do and what I should protect, I realized that it was undoubtedly the world of Noh, which is Japan's traditional performing art. I now strongly feel that I want to inherit and continue to protect what has been passed down through generations, starting with my grandfather.


Nakamura: That's a wonderful way of thinking. I hope you'll carry on what's important and create new value and meaning from now on.

Hosho: Yes, I ride my own motorcycle, which was manufactured 80 years ago, and I get emotional when I hear the engine sound. My car, my motorcycle, and these remade clothes from my grandfather have all "come to me through a series of events." That's the epitome of modern romance. My grandfather's kimono and suit might have been thrown away, but I want to cherish them and wear them well as clothes that bring me joy.

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＊The information in this article is current as of the time of publication. Product information may be revised or changed without notice.

For inquiries, please contact: Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building 5th Floor, Made to Measure. Phone: 03-3352-1111 (Main number). For email inquiries, please click here.