It's said that opportunities to wear suits have decreased, but there are still occasions when you absolutely must wear one. These include attending ceremonies such as weddings and funerals. The upcoming graduation and entrance ceremony season is a time when formal attire is required for many occasions, so a suit for special days is essential.

So, this time, we recreated a scene where a bespoke suit stylist assists two men who are struggling to choose a suit for their graduation ceremony. There are various reasons why people want to wear a bespoke suit rather than an off-the-rack one for such a special occasion, but having a stylist who can offer precise answers is very reassuring.

Furthermore, starting this season, we've launched a "Quick Order Program" that allows you to receive your suit within two weeks of ordering. Even if you're busy with work and can't prepare your suit until the last minute, you can still order it in time, giving you peace of mind. Attending a special day in a special suit will surely create lasting memories.

Case 1.
I want to order a suit to wear to the graduation ceremony and thank-you party in March!

Yoshida: I'd like to order a suit for the graduation ceremony in March.

Hatori: It's impressive that a student would order a custom-made suit.

Yoshida: When I ordered a suit for my job search, I got an offer from my first-choice company, so I thought that ordering a suit was definitely the best idea.

Hatori: Ready-made clothing is about wearing the brand's individuality, but bespoke clothing is about expressing your own individuality. If you think of it that way, it will become clear what kind of suit would be best for you.

Yoshida: I definitely want to express my individuality, but since it's a graduation ceremony where formal attire is required, I don't want anything too flashy.


Hatori: What kind of suits do you have in your closet?

Yoshida: It was the black suit I wore for job hunting and the one I wore for my part-time job.

Hatori: In that case, I recommend a classic navy suit. Young people these days prefer black, but actually, navy is the basic color for suits.

Yoshida: I see. In that case, I'll choose the navy fabric. By the way, I don't own many shirts and ties.

Hatori: If you're going to wear it as formal attire, I recommend pairing a white shirt with a plain navy tie. It looks neat and tidy, and will blend in well even in a solemn venue. It's suitable not only for the company entrance ceremony but also as a business suit afterward, and it will also give you a fresh look.



Yoshida: Actually, there's a thank-you party and a graduation party for my seminar on a different day. I'd like to consider a suit that I can wear to those parties.

Hatori: Understood. Then perhaps a gray suit...

Yoshida: Ideally, I'd like a suit with a bit more character, something that not many other people wear.

Hatori: How about Solaro? The sheen becomes more apparent depending on how it drapes. It's a fabric with a Southern Italian feel, also known as "Sun Cloth," the fabric of the sun.


Yoshida: This fabric seems unlikely to be the same as what my friends are wearing, but it looks like it will be difficult to find a shirt or tie to match it with.

Hatori: If it's a green Solaro fabric, I think it's easier to match with a tie that has a cool color in it. If it's an orange Solaro fabric, then a warm color would be better.

Yoshida: I see, so there are tricks to it.

Hatori: Advanced Solaro wearers deliberately use contrasting colors. This is because Solaro is woven using threads of different colors on the front and back. The degree of sheen comes from the color of the lining, so it's easier to coordinate if you match the tie color as well.

Yoshida: That's very helpful. I'm even more eager to try on a Solaro suit now.

Case 1.
Wearing the suit: Later, I tried on the suit that had been tailored.

A navy suit suitable for all occasions.

A solid navy suit is an all-occasion suit that can be worn from formal occasions to business meetings. You can express your individuality with the shade of navy, but lighter shades tend to look more casual, so choosing a medium to dark tone will create a sophisticated and mature style. Paired with a white shirt, a solid navy tie, and black straight-tip shoes, it can be worn not only for graduation ceremonies but also for various occasions after you start working. The style is "Diplomatico," which incorporates an international taste.

Solaro fabrics express elegance and individuality through their drape and sheen.

This Solaro suit, with its beige and green sheen that shines through depending on the light, is styled with a striped shirt, green tie, and green pocket square for a vibrant look. The model is called "MI6." Inspired by modern British suiting, it features slim lapels and a compact shoulder line. Slanted pockets and a change pocket add a touch of elegance and style.

Playing with ties creates a Neapolitan style.



This model uses Solaro fabric with beige and orange threads. It features a Neapolitan-style construction with no shoulder pads, using ultra-thin interlining, a shirt-style sleeve attachment called "manica camicia," and patch pockets at the waist. The styling evokes the image of a fashionable businessman from Naples in Southern Italy, complete with a bold paisley tie and brown loafers.

Case 2.
I ordered a graduation suit that I can also wear to work.

Yamagata: I'd like to order a suit for my son's kindergarten graduation ceremony.

Hatori: Do you usually wear a suit for work?

Yamagata: I often wear suits or jacket and trousers, but sometimes I don't wear a tie. Lately, I've been pairing them with turtleneck sweaters.

Hatori: What kind of suits do you own most often?

Yamagata: I usually wear plain navy. When I wear gray occasionally, I get compliments (laughs).

Hatori: How about something with a pattern?

Yamagata: I'm not very good at it.

Hatori: In that case, how about choosing gray this time, as it's suitable for formal occasions? A calm, medium tone that can be worn for work would be good, wouldn't it?

Yamagata: It's great that I can wear it to work, but is it this gray color?


Hatori: Smaller sizes tend to appear darker, so I think you'll get a better sense of the color's intensity by looking at the actual bolt of fabric rather than just a swatch. It's a charcoal gray that can be worn with business suits, but it also gives a calm impression, so I think it will create a dignified look at the graduation ceremony venue.

Yamagata: Then please use this fabric.

Hatori: For the suit model, I think a slightly structured "English braid" would be good so that it gives a neat and tidy impression when worn formally. For the pockets, let's make them double-welted without flaps so that they can be used for formal occasions.


Yamagata: What kind of shirts and ties would be appropriate?

Hatori: For the graduation ceremony, a white shirt is appropriate. A glossy, plain navy tie would be good. When you wear it to work, you can simply change the tie to a regimental one.

Yamagata: I see. With this, I can attend the graduation ceremony and then come to work in the afternoon.

Hatori: Earlier you mentioned that you sometimes wear turtleneck sweaters, but wouldn't a crewneck sweater be a good choice for spring?


Yamagata: Thank you. I'm relieved that you even showed me the outfit coordination. However, there's just one thing I'm worried about...

Hatori : What kind of?

Yamagata: Actually, the graduation ceremony is next month. There's less than a month left, will we be able to make it in time?

Hatori: Normally, the delivery time for made-to-measure garments is 4 to 6 weeks, but starting this year, we've introduced a system called "Quick Order." For an additional charge of 16,500 yen, you can pick up your order at the store approximately two weeks after placing it.

Yamagata: That's a relief. I'll be able to receive it before the graduation ceremony. Now I have nothing to worry about!

Case 2.
Wearing Review: I was able to put on the finished suit after two weeks!

A charcoal gray suit suitable for formal occasions.

While black is common for formal wear in Japan, gray is actually the standard color for formal wear in Europe and America. Therefore, we chose a fabric that can be worn all year round, in a charcoal gray slightly darker than medium. The flapless welt pockets are a typical design for formal wear suitable for indoors, making this a globally-minded style with a strong international sensibility. The V-zone consists of a white shirt and navy tie. Adding a white pocket square further enhances the formal feel. A tie made of glossy satin or twill is appropriate for a celebratory occasion like a kindergarten graduation ceremony.

Simply changing the tie transforms it into a business suit.

By simply changing the tie to a striped one from the previous style, you can easily adapt it to a business setting. It's also convenient for attending a graduation ceremony in the morning and then heading to work in the afternoon. The shoulder construction and waist tapering unique to "English Braid" give it both a stylish and substantial look, resulting in a sophisticated suit style.

A set-up style paired with white sneakers is also an option.

By replacing the shirt and tie with a crew-neck knit sweater and pairing it with white sneakers, you can create a set-up style that has recently become established as the new normal business style. It's a light and casual business style, but because it's a custom-made suit that fits well, it doesn't lose its dignity even when worn casually. It's a dressy style that is a cut above the typical suit-like sets you'd find in a casual shop.






Text: Yasuyuki Ikeda
Photograph: Tatsuya Ozawa

Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store | View Digital Catalog List

Mitsukoshi Isetan Online Store | Find the latest information on men's tailored clothing here.

---