Daiki Aoshima, who has just been appointed as an Assistant Buyer (AB) at the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store's Personal Order Salon, has had his long-desired coat made. "It would be terrible for me, standing in this salon, to be wearing off-the-rack clothes that are too small for me. Next year I'll finally be 30. If I'm going to join the ranks of adults before reaching that milestone, now is the time," Aoshima thought, and following the advice of his senior colleague Tomoya Miyaji, he knocked on the door of Lid Tailor. This is the new assistant buyer's "first bespoke garment."

Reasons for choosing custom-made clothing over ready-made clothing

Aoshima and Miyaji are drinking coffee at Chopin, a long-established coffee shop in Kanda. It seems they are on their way back from a meeting at a nearby fabric shop. To warm themselves up in the biting winter wind that has chilled them to the bone, the two rushed into their familiar coffee shop.


Aoshima: We had a good business meeting today, didn't we?

Miyaji: But even so, Aoshima was looking at the court the whole time and seemed quite distracted.

Aoshima: Did you notice? I was finally able to take it off today. But anyway, I think I've created the best outfit.

Miyaji: Yeah, that coat looks great on Aoshima's physique. How tall is he again?

Aoshima: I'm 188 centimeters tall, and yet I'm thin. Most ready-made clothes didn't fit me.

Miyaji: The length is short and the rise is shallow. I knew he had trouble with suits, but I didn't know his coats were also too small.

Aoshima: When it comes to a proper coat, it's surprisingly hard to find one. There are trendy oversized ones, but you certainly can't wear one of those with a tailored suit.

Miyaji: That's certainly true.

Beginners should definitely choose Lid Tailor.

Aoshima: For my first custom-made suit, I followed Miyaji's advice and asked Nemoto-san (of Lid Tailor) to make it, and it was far more impressive than I could have imagined. First of all, there was the skillful work of a master craftsman. Just watching his movements was mesmerizing, and my heart was already racing during the fitting stage.

Miyaji: I thought so. Even now, I still get so engrossed in it that I lose track of time (laughs).

Aoshima: The personal order salon has a whole lineup of highly skilled tailors. I don't think I could have made a decision on my own. I'm grateful for the encouragement I received.

Miyaji: There's another reason why I recommended Nemoto-san besides his (undeniable skill).

Aoshima: What do you mean?

Miyaji: I knew from seeing his everyday clothes that he likes traditional clothing, so I thought Lid Tailor, which pursues "timelessness," would be a good fit for him.


Another reason is that Nemoto-san is a reliable older brother figure. The real joy of being a tailor is being able to build relationships that go beyond just selling clothes, but he's someone who genuinely cares about you without considering profit or loss. Moreover, Nemoto-san's aesthetic sense permeates every aspect of his life. Cars, music, interiors... in fact, his entire lifestyle. You know how young people who are captivated by Nemoto-san frequent his atelier in Nishi-Ogikubo, right? I thought there was no one more suitable for my "first custom-made garment."

Lid Tailor's signature fit

Aoshima: When I placed the order, I was pretty much completely open about it, saying, "I'm finally turning 30, so I want a coat for adults." After all, it was my first ever custom-made coat.

Miyaji: That was a wise choice. Even if you lack experience, Nemoto-san will approach it from the same perspective.

Aoshima: Mr. Nemoto advised me that a double-breasted Chesterfield coat would be suitable for an adult, taking its history into consideration. It's practically impossible for an amateur to choose from the countless options available. I was very grateful that Mr. Nemoto took the lead. And this is the crucial point: he guided me, but it was never one-sided. He provided several options down to the details, such as the buttons and lining, and in the end, he let me choose. It was a perfect balance. There was a moment when he scolded me, though (laughs).

Miyaji: What kind of thing?

Aoshima: I requested a substantial silhouette with plenty of fabric, but they said, "If you overdo it, it will lose its Chester coat feel. A classic Chester coat needs to fit snugly around the shoulders."

Miyaji: That's what you'd expect from Nemoto-san. It's important to know the basics first, after all. But, since the base is a double (with ample room in the front closure), the drape that Aoshima wanted is clearly visible. (Touching the fabric) The fabric you chose also contributes to this drape.


Aoshima: This is a domestically produced fabric with a weight of 565 grams. It is tightly woven, supple, and smooth. I like not only the beautiful drape, but also the fact that (since it is 100% wool and not blended with cashmere or anything else) I don't have to be so meticulous about its care.

My only real preference was choosing brown instead of the classic navy. I figured brown would be the way to go if I wanted to project a more mature image. Mr. Nemoto agreed.

Miyaji: The fit is absolutely perfect, as you might expect.

Aoshima: The shoulder and waist lines fit perfectly, and the length is just right at knee-length—I am truly impressed that it is custom-made. By the way, it was only after getting measured that I realized I have broad shoulders. When you think about it, it's normal for any jacket to have a crease (a horizontal wrinkle that appears around the back of the neck; broad shoulders are said to be one of the causes), and it was something I had almost given up on. This coat doesn't have a single one of those unpleasant wrinkles.

By the way, Miyaji-san, there's a little bit of extra room around the chest. Do you know why?


Miyaji: That's because a Chesterfield coat isn't complete until you drape a cashmere stole over it. So that's where the space comes from.

Aoshima: I'm impressed.

Miyaji: (With a not entirely displeased expression) Your suit was also from Lid Tailor, wasn't it?

Aoshima: Yes. I had a suit and a coat made all at once, so when I saw the balance in my account after all the money was withdrawn the other day, I was completely shocked.

Miyaji: Anyway (laughs), the suit fits you so well, it's breathtaking. The second button of the jacket and the waistband are perfectly aligned, aren't they? If they were far apart, it would look stretched out. Once you know this balance, you might not be able to wear your old clothes anymore.

Aoshima: Since it was delivered, I've been wearing this suit almost exclusively. I think the amount of clothes in my wardrobe will decrease considerably (laughs).

This coat has a modern feel and is perfect for casual days too.

Miyaji: A gray pinstripe suit, crest tie, suspenders, and tassel slip-ons...Yeah, the outfit looks pretty good. It suits the barber-made hairstyle perfectly.

Aoshima: Thank you.

Miyaji: If you take traditional style too far, it can easily look like cosplay. While the minimalist approach to styling is important, what shouldn't be overlooked is the potential of the coat itself. The peaked lapels are symbolic, for example. They possess the dignity that comes with peaked lapels, while landing on a moderately modern edge. This balance is something only Nemoto-san could achieve.

Aoshima: I'm also happy with the lapels. They're not too pointed, so they can be worn casually. Actually, I brought an off-duty version with me so Miyaji could take a look at it. May I try it on?

(Aoshima rushed to the toilet without waiting for Miyaji's reply.)

Aoshima: Sorry to keep you waiting. What do you think? I paired a knit sweater with chinos and desert boots.

Miyaji: (While being overwhelmed by Aoshima's energy) The key point of tailor-based styling is that it looks stylish without being flashy. It's a perfect example of how to dress.




Miyaji: Tailoring is the foundation of all clothing. If you master this basic, you can apply it to countless other things. I myself was put in charge of the made-to-order floor from the year I joined the company, and thanks to that, I no longer have to worry about choosing clothes. It's not too late for Aoshima either. If you take your time to learn the basics from now on, you'll be able to create your ideal wardrobe.

I've said this before, but if you want to create that kind of wardrobe, the quickest way is to find a mentor like Mr. Nemoto. And if you want to find a trustworthy tailor, a personal order salon is perfect. Not only does it have a lineup of leading tailors, but it's also a place where you can easily meet them. Going straight to a tailor's atelier is a bit of a high hurdle, isn't it?

Aoshima: Oh, that was a bit of an advertisement.

Miyaji: (Ignoring Aoshima's retort) I'm proud of the one-month delivery time for this coat. That means even if you order it now, you'll be able to wear it before winter ends.

For a while, I'll focus on building my wardrobe.

Miyaji: The coat turned out perfectly, so I'll have it work hard outside and sweat for me this winter.

Aoshima: Unfortunately, I cannot go along with your wishes. That's because this year I want to win her over and walk alongside her through a city sparkling with champagne gold light.

Miyaji: There's less than a month until Christmas. You won't find anything if you start looking now. Give up on her for a while. Think of this as a good opportunity to invest in yourself, and first focus on your work and building your wardrobe.

Aoshima: I will do my best...