Did you know that you can always receive a "bespoke" service at Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, where Brioni , an Italian menswear couture house, has an in-house tailor on staff?

We spoke with Ms. Nakagawa from Brioni Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store and Mr. Wakai, the in-house tailor, about the brand's identity and the exceptional tailoring techniques that have been passed down for over 75 years.

A speedy bespoke service where the initial fitting, done in Italy, is completed in approximately three weeks.

Since opening its first store in Rome, Italy in 1945, Brioni has captivated gentlemen around the world with its exceptional craftsmanship.

Brioni 's skilled tailors, who transcend national borders to pursue the art of tailoring, know every step of the process, from cutting to the final ironing. Brioni 's masculine silhouette and lightweight comfort are achieved through the hands of these experts.

Brioni's bespoke service, which personalizes clothing to each individual customer, represents the pinnacle of tailoring, and is the very process by which Brioni 's master tailors pour all their knowledge and experience into constructing a suit.

"Smart Bespoke" is a speedy bespoke service where a dedicated tailor handles the fitting, and the garment is tailored in Italy, the home of Brioni, and the basted garment is completed in about three weeks. This service is available at all of Brioni's directly managed stores worldwide, but it is always available at the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, where an in-house tailor is always on duty. We spoke with Ms. Nakagawa from Brioni Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store and Ms. Wakai, who works as an in-house tailor.

[Interview] Brioni 's "Bespoke" Tailoring: A Beauty Like Art - What Makes It So Appealing?

Iwamoto : What is the identity that Brioni values most?

Nakagawa : What Brioni values most is tailoring technique and its transmission. What makes Brioni 's clothing unparalleled is the work of tailors with the world's finest sartorial excellence skills.

From cutting to the final ironing, every step in bringing Brioni suit to life requires over 220 steps and more than 22 hours of work by tailors who know every detail. Furthermore, 70% of the finishing is done by hand, with 6,000 hand stitches. Through this highly skilled handiwork and a tailoring process that is like creating a sculpture, Brioni tailors work with each customer's body, personality, and requests to create a one-of-a-kind masterpiece.

Iwamoto : So, those suits, with their light feel and beautiful style, are made through the highly skilled handiwork of experienced tailors. How do you go about honing and passing on such advanced techniques?

Nakagawa : Brioni 's founder viewed tailoring techniques, a treasure trove of valuable knowledge, as a cultural heritage. To ensure that this knowledge could be passed down from skilled craftsmen to talented young people, in 1985, he established the Scuola di Alta Sartoria in Penne, Italy's only high school where one can study tailoring. It was a major decision to invest in the education of a new generation. The school quickly became an educational institution in the Abruzzo region and an important asset to Italy.

With its own in-house tailors trained at its specialized school, Brioni stands out even in the world of top-tier men's tailoring. Selection takes place every four years, and only 16 young people who pass the rigorous examination are allowed to enroll. The existence of the "Scuola di Alta Sartoria," which teaches ethics and craftsmanship, is a symbol of the transmission of skills that Brioni values so highly.


Iwamoto : So, you're not just preserving the brand, but also protecting the tailoring techniques themselves, which are an integral part of Italian culture. Please tell us about the appeal of Brioni 's bespoke tailoring, which is considered an art form and embodies the finest techniques that have been passed down through generations.

Nakagawa : By bringing each customer's ideal vision to life, we offer the ultimate service where they can personally check the fit and design, make further requests, and have their dream garment tailored.

Furthermore, Brioni at Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store has a dedicated tailor, Mr. Wakai, who trained at a Milanese sartorial shop, on staff at all times, so you can receive bespoke tailoring services anytime.

Mr. Wakai's meticulous measurements create an astonishingly accurate silhouette, highlighting the customer's individuality and style, and resulting in a comfortable fit. Furthermore, although many customers are unaware, we also offer custom-made coats, jackets, vests, trousers, and shirts, all handcrafted in Italy.

Iwamoto : One of the attractions is that you can easily get advice from a dedicated tailor who is always on-site. Brioni 's bespoke tailoring is loved by executives all over the world, but what kind of customers order from you at the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store?


Wakai : Some customers use our service because they are particular about design, or because ready-made clothing doesn't fit their body type, or because they want to order a new silhouette. Also, since Brioni has hundreds of exclusive fabrics, some customers consult with us because they want a special suit that is one of a kind in the world. You can choose from our selection and have your suit tailored in consultation with our staff, including myself as a tailor.

Iwamoto : If you tailor the garment to your own specifications, it truly becomes a one-of-a-kind, special order. For example, what kind of requests have you received?

Wakai : One unique request we received was for a pair of knickerbockers, a type of golf wear not available as ready-made items. Special specifications can easily lead to discrepancies between the actual finished product and the customer's expectations, so we recommend Smart Bespoke, which allows you to check and adjust the fabric sample beforehand.

Iwamoto : The appeal of Smart Bespoke really shines through in special specifications. What are some key points to consider when ordering a suit?

Wakai : I think it's important for customers to have an ideal image in mind (silhouette, comfort, design, etc.). Also, we combine suitable fabrics and interlinings according to the situation in which the garment will be worn (everyday wear, travel, business meetings, special occasions, etc.), so if you tell us in advance, we can tailor a garment that more accurately meets your needs.

Iwamoto : In addition to the silhouette and color, choosing the interlining according to the occasion in which you'll be wearing it can also cover the climate and comfort. Is it difficult for first-time customers to place an order if they only know the color of the fabric?

Wakai : That's not the case at all. We'll be happy to advise you on what kind of fabric is best suited to your needs and offer suggestions that fit your lifestyle, so please feel free to consult with us.

Iwamoto : What is the most important thing to your brand?

Nakagawa : It's about creating something that aligns with the customer's ideal. Brioni 's exceptional tailoring skills, along with the finest materials, are poured into our bespoke service, a testament to a unique tradition that has been passed down for over 75 years, ensuring we can meet every request of each individual customer.

Iwamoto : Brioni 's bespoke tailoring, which is often described as an art form, is backed by a tradition and skill that has been fulfilling customers' requests for over 75 years. The biggest appeal is that you can easily receive this service at Brioni in Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Main Store, where a dedicated tailor is on staff.

• Brioni Bespoke Reference Price (Autumn/Winter 2021)

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  Coats from ¥698,500
• Outerwear starts from 385,000 yen
• Suits from ¥874,500
• Jackets start from ¥698,500
• Vests start from 198,000 yen
• Trousers from ¥214,500
• Shirts from ¥82,500
• ・Knitwear from 130,900 yen
• • Neckties (from 3 pieces): from 122,100 yen
• • Socks (from 3 pairs): From 39,600 yen
• Shoes from 130,900 yen
• *For bespoke orders, the price will vary depending on the fabric you choose.
• *Please allow approximately 10 weeks for delivery.

Photo & Text: NIHOMBASHI MITSUKOSHI MEN'S
Edited by: ISETAN MEN'S net