In this series showcasing the allure of bespoke tailoring, our first featured item from the Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Store is Mitsukoshi Premium, a brand that continues to evolve while upholding tradition and prestige . We present the bespoke suits that form the heart of their much-anticipated personal order salon. Guided by buyer Yuki Yamaura, we also share the thoughts of four cutters: Osamu Yamagishi, Kazuaki Hagiwara, Haoran Guo, and Shingo Sato.

First, let's hear what buyer Yamaura thinks are the highlights of this salon.

In August 2019, we reopened our men's clothing floor after a 30-year hiatus. The newly established personal order salon offers a wide range of custom order services.

The sight of world-renowned brands like Italy's RUBINACCI , France's Cifonelli , England's HENRY POOLE , and Anderson & Sheppard's Haberdashery (a clothing and accessories shop) all gathered in one place is simply spectacular. The fabric cellar, with its towering yet orderly stacks of fabrics from around the world, is also well worth seeing.

Beyond the top-notch tailoring and fabrics, the appeal of a personal order salon lies in its hospitable atmosphere and customer service, which are befitting of its extensive selection.

The floor, furnished with counters, tables, and sofas, truly has the feel of a salon. The VIP room, in particular, is a source of pride. It boasts ample fitting space—almost twice the size of what you'd typically expect.

While our VIP room is primarily used for overseas trunk shows, its purpose is by no means limited. You are welcome to use it even if you're just choosing a pocket square. This salon aims to be a space open to everyone.

Our salon is highly regarded by middle-aged and older generations. While it's gaining support among younger generations through parent-child referrals, we can't deny that there are still many customers who are hesitant to take the plunge. Creating a welcoming and inviting space is one way we encourage them to take that second step.

Mitsukoshi Premium, with its four on staff, also plays a significant role in resolving the "barrier to entry" issue. Not only is the presence of so many skilled cutters a given, but once you experience their attentive customer service and the craftsmanship honed over 110 years of history, you're sure to want to become a regular customer.

In the second half, we'll hear from Cutter about the appeal of Mitsukoshi Premium, but before that, I'd like to add one more point.

To coincide with the refreshed reopening of our floor, we have completed two house models. One is a distinctly British pattern, symbolized by front darts, and the other is an Italian-style suit with a lower gorge and a rounded shape. Both have a modern look that is accepted worldwide, but what is most noteworthy is their borderless craftsmanship. At Mitsukoshi Premium, we can tailor a house model inspired by British style with the lightness of an Italian suit. This is the strength of Japanese cutters who have studied tailoring from all over the world without discrimination.

The importance of "fitting"

Four Mitsukoshi Premium Cutters: (from left) Shingo Sato, Osamu Yamagishi, Kazuaki Hagiwara, and Haoran Guo

--First, let me ask Chief Yamagishi: What kind of customers visit your store?

Yamagishi: We do have a lot of middle-aged and elderly customers. Some are even in their 90s.

—Having a suit made in your 90s. That's incredibly stylish.

Yamagishi: Given the local culture, everyone here is very stylish. And they're also passionate about clothing. Some customers have five or six outfits made in six months. They apparently drop by while they're in the grocery section, but it's hard to tell which is the main reason they're here (laughs), because they really enjoy their time in the salon.

Customers who were born and raised in the downtown area tend to get things done quickly and efficiently. This is no exception when it comes to having a suit made. Our custom orders require a fitting, and perhaps that's why we do it—to fully understand the needs of such customers (laughs).

--Could you tell us again what makes Mitsukoshi Premium so appealing?

Yamagishi: Quality, delivery time, and price. If I may say so myself, I think all of these are in harmony.

I also value interpersonal relationships. I've been in this business for 30 years now, and I feel like I'm practically family with my regular customers.

—Your meticulous craftsmanship is well-known in the industry. I hear that you sew in the collar, buttons, lining, and sometimes even the inner pockets during the fitting stage.

Yamagishi: If the sashiko stitching (the stitching used to blend the outer fabric and interlining) is exposed, it's easy to get distracted by it. By adding a collar, you can carefully check the overall look. The inner pocket is useful for checking how your favorite smartphone or wallet fits inside.

—The trousers are just as well-made as the jacket, aren't they?

Hagiwara: We attach accessories such as zippers and belt loops before putting the garment on. We check the position of the loops when the garment is actually being worn, and determine the position by considering the balance with the rise. This is something you don't often see elsewhere. The hems of the slacks are finished by applying tape and then stitching them.

—Not only is the two-pronged approach of using tape and stitching impressive, but the fineness of the stitching is truly remarkable.

Hagiwara: When we consider the Mitsukoshi brand, this is an aspect that we cannot neglect.

—I understand that the suit you made for your conductor client perfectly exemplifies that level of craftsmanship.

Hagiwara: The request was for the suit to look beautiful when conducting. So I made the armholes smaller and the back width wider. Easier said than done, as there is no theory to follow, so I completed it by checking each part during the fitting process.

Thoughts on the "next generation"

—Both of you have such a gentle and sincere way of speaking that it makes you want to entrust everything to you (laughs). With this kind of environment, young people can learn skills in a relaxed atmosphere. Ms. Sato, you've been working here for a little over two months now, how is it?

Sato: As you said, my senior colleagues are very hospitable. Whether they're drawing blueprints in the cutting room or serving customers on the floor, their thoughtfulness remains the same.

—I heard you were always getting yelled at at your previous job at the sewing factory (laughs).

Sato: It was a factory full of old-fashioned veterans. But I didn't find it difficult because I was suited to doing meticulous work.

Why did you choose the path of a craftsman?

Sato: It all started when I chose Ralph Lauren for a part-time job while I was a student. I learned how to use a thimble from the craftsmen there. I wanted to learn pattern making, so I chose (the personal order salon) as my next step. From how to create the neck point to everything else, there's so much to learn every day, and it's really enjoyable.

──What would you like to appeal to future customers?

Sato: In this day and age, suits need to be soft and lightweight. I can even create the interlining from scratch to your specifications.

—How did Mr. Guo come to be involved?

Guo: I love clothes, so I went to a fashion school in my home country (China), but it wasn't enough for me. The country I chose to study abroad was Japan, the birthplace of Yohji Yamamoto, whom I adore. I wanted to work with women's clothing, so I enrolled in Bunka Fashion College. I've been in Japan for 10 years now.

Guo: We say that clothing, food, and shelter are essential, but now that we have enough food and shelter, the role of clothing has become relatively more important. To meet this expectation, we need to know how to make one-of-a-kind items rather than mass-produce them. Whatever I do, I thought I should first become a full-fledged cutter.

I want to understand what my clients want and how they want to present themselves, and then offer a variety of suggestions. There would be nothing more rewarding than if my suggestions could help them discover new aspects of their own charm.

—I heard you made suits for female customers last year.

Guo: Yes. First, the husband placed the order. It's a heartwarming story, but the husband said he wanted to wear the suit and take a picture with his wife. However, his wife was troubled because she didn't have anything to wear to match her husband's best suit. So, I was chosen to make it. I made a collarless, long suit for her.

—That's modern. I'm sure they were pleased.

Guo: Thanks to your support, we are pleased to announce that the couple will be making them together again this year.

--Summer is just around the corner. How are you planning to respond to Cool Biz?

Guo: Whether or not you wear a tie changes the balance and silhouette of the suit. If you're not wearing a tie, you need more room for balance and a softer silhouette. We redraw the lines down to the smallest details, such as the angle of the lapels and the width of the sleeves.

--Finally, could you tell us about the aspirations of the two young people?

Sato: I want to grow into a skilled cutter and receive orders from many customers. If I can help protect the livelihoods of the people working in the sewing industry, that would be the greatest reward for a cutter. I will never forget the gratitude I owe to the factory where I learned the basics of suit making, and I will continue to work hard.

Guo: In addition to Japanese, I can also speak English. I want to use these language skills to convey the appeal of this salon not only to younger generations and women, but also to people all over the world. Mitsukoshi Premium suits are second to none, even compared to those from Savile Row or Naples. I want to be proud of that.

Yamaura: Personal order salons are the kind of salons that you get hooked on once you step inside, and we are proud that Mitsukoshi Premium is a symbolic example of this. We hope that even customers who have felt that our salons are intimidating will come and visit us at least once.