LID TAILOR, a made-to-measure (MTM) shop on the 5th floor of the Isetan Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building , will be introducing a new menu that includes a fitting. Production is being handled by Sewing Company, a long-established workshop specializing in fully handmade suits, founded in 1964. Osamu Nemoto of LID TAILOR, Yoshihiro Shimamura of Sewing Company, and Yuki Yamaura, a buyer for men's tailored clothing, will discuss its appeal in detail.

More of a workshop than a factory

—First, could you tell us about the background behind launching the MTM service with fittings?

Yamaura: It's already been seven years since MTM was launched at the same time as the remodeling of Isetan Shinjuku Store, Men's Building . If I may say so, we've gained more discerning customers. As the next step, they've started venturing overseas and trying bespoke tailoring. This in itself is wonderful, but we also needed to prepare a platform for them. That's where MTM with fittings came in.
When proposing a more advanced MTM (Manufacturer-to-Order) system, another thing we kept in mind was to demonstrate that Japanese manufacturing is still very much a force to be reckoned with.

—And that's how I got approached by the Sewing Company.

Yamaura: It was about two years ago that I had the opportunity to visit them. They had originally been handling our shop's original custom-made products. I was unaware of this myself, but apparently their business relationship has already spanned 40 years.
Visiting the site in person was incredibly encouraging for someone working in the fashion industry. Beyond their undeniable commitment to quality craftsmanship, "Sewing Company" had also established a system to pass on its legacy to the next generation.


—In the department store industry, there's no one who doesn't know them; they're truly a hidden gem.

Shimamura: Our company is a fully handmade suit factory that was founded in 1964, the year of the Tokyo Olympics. Our founder is Yukio Okumura. Born in Fukuoka, he apprenticed at a local tailor at a young age and learned sewing techniques. Later, he moved to Tokyo and studied pattern making at the Inaba Cutting Institute. After honing his skills, Okumura received the Kimura Keiichi Award, which was the most prestigious award at the time. Since starting the business, we have mainly handled OEM production for department stores.



Yamaura: Its most distinctive feature is that one craftsman tailors an entire garment from start to finish.
Nemoto: It's what they used to call a single stitch.
Shimamura: I believe that by maintaining this structure, we were able to somehow meet Mr. Nemoto's demands.
Nemoto: Sewing an entire piece from start to finish takes on a completely different level of responsibility, and that difference is clearly reflected in the finished product.
Yamaura: The moment I stepped inside, I was amazed by the energy in the workshop. I counted, and there were over 10 craftsmen working in the sewing area alone, and most of them were in their twenties. And they were all very positive.



Yamaura: The craftsmen we wanted to promote ranged in age from 19 to 80.

—The gaping gap in the middle generation is a negative consequence of the high economic growth period. During that time, every manufacturing site struggled to find workers, so I admire how you persevered and paved the way for succession once again.

Yamaura: I wanted to create a chemical reaction by adding Nemoto-san to the mix.

The concept of styled bespoke

--Isetan Men's MTM (Made-to-Order) section features some of the top tailors. Why did you choose Mr. Nemoto for this role ?

Yamaura: I had a lot of respect for his craftsmanship, which was backed by a unique and unconventional way of thinking and knowledge. And I expected that it would be a great stimulus to the workplace. But it was a lot of work. When I first brought up the idea, I was practically turned away at the door (laughs). I went to his studio in Nishi-Ogikubo every day and spent two years trying to persuade him.

Nemoto: Turning people away at the door sounds bad (laughs). With the existing MTM and the bespoke service I run at Lid Tailor already in place, I was simply seriously considering what kind of compromise would be appropriate if we were to launch something new.


—How did they manage to coexist?

Nemoto: I create the patterns, but if the hands are different, a new suit will naturally be born. To put it simply, I thought that was enough.

Yamaura : The patterns are graded from master patterns, and there is also a base model for the interlining. In this respect, it differs from bespoke tailoring, where everything is made from scratch.

Nemoto: Actually, I've been interested in master patterns for a while now. I wanted to figure out how to reach more people without compromising my own house style. Master patterns were the answer.

—So, in that sense, you felt that there was value in having a suit made with "Sewing Company," right?

Yamaura: We call this new MTM with fitting "Styled Bespoke."

It took a year even after the green light was given.

—What are the design features?

Nemoto: This embodies the unwavering respect for Savile Row that Lid Tailor has had since its founding. I internalized this and aimed to create a "normal" suit that can be worn not only now, but also 10 years from now. Even the lapels, from their width to the position of the gorge and the shape of the notches, embody what I consider to be "normal."

Yamaura: If you ask me, Mr. Nemoto's dedication to bringing his definition of "normal" to life is extraordinary. For example, his instructions for the flower holes are like this: 1 inch wide, and make sure they don't overlap with the transition line—I've never heard such detailed instructions before (laughs).

Nemoto: Nobody uses it that way anymore, but the flower hole was originally meant for inserting flowers. So, it's necessary to consider the balance when inserting flowers. The petals should fit nicely into the lapel. It's a golden ratio that we've derived from long experience.



Yamaura: I can confidently say that this suit is a parade of exquisite craftsmanship that would make any dress lover drool.

Nemoto: However, I don't think it's right to deliberately publicize such things.

Yamaura: I understand what you're saying. Mr. Nemoto is the kind of person who thinks that selvages and brand tags are unnecessary, and that fabric manufacturers' tags should be used. I think Mr. Nemoto is the complete opposite of "showmanship" (bluffing or deception).

Fundamental: It's important that the essence is conveyed accurately.

Yamaura: I don't disagree with Mr. Nemoto's opinion. I don't disagree, but it took a whole year from the time it was decided to launch Styled Bespoke. I can't just ignore the difficulties involved (laughs). If he's hesitant to talk about it himself, let's have Mr. Shimamura step in.

Shimamura: This is the first time we've ever sat down together and worked so closely to find the right balance, and all of Nemoto-san's requests have been completely new to me. First of all, I want to say that I was greatly inspired. I've been doing this job for quite some time, but even I was constantly surprised every day.

Now, let's get down to business. Look at these trousers. Can you see the ease (comfort) added to the side seams?

Apparently, these specifications are modeled after Huntsman 's designs from the 1960s. Huntsman is a prestigious British brand that started out with country wear. It seems like they've made some thoughtful design choices to allow for a wide range of motion.

The darts in the lining are simply secured by adding ease. Normally, they would be neatly sewn in place. Apparently, this design was influenced by Cifonelli suits.


Shimamura: The brilliance of the master pattern is indescribable. It's as if it takes on a dignified presence just by being hung on a hanger.

This garment is the result of meticulous attention to detail, but the interlining, in particular, is outstanding. It is thin and lightweight, yet it more than adequately ensures a three-dimensional shape around the chest.

(At this point, craftswoman Yoshiko Nagashima joined the group.)

Nagashima: I was really impressed by the idea of using eyelet thread. I chose olive thread for my blue fabric. Mr. Nemoto said it was a perfect match and then continued, "But if it were me, I'd want to save the olive for the customer. In other words, it's a color I'd want to save for the ties they'll wear." If the customer is going to wear an olive tie, olive eyelet thread would be a bit too much. I found the idea of saving that color for the customer absolutely wonderful.


Nagashima: And the thread that Nemoto actually chose was a blue-gray color. He picked up the base color and made it stand out subtly. It's a sense of balance that really opened my eyes. If you want to be completely inconspicuous, you should use the same color as the fabric. I was amazed by this aesthetic sense that he learned from vintage clothing.

Nemoto: I've taken apart many tailor-made suits in order to master that technique.


—I imagine there's nothing more rewarding than seeing what you've absorbed being passed on to these young people.

Nemoto: Sewing Company is a factory that can do single-stitch sewing, so their foundation is solid. But what impressed me even more was their insatiable desire for improvement and the immense potential for future growth. I want to pour everything I have into them without holding anything back.

Even now, I'm still overwhelmed by the legendary cutter, and if I had the chance, I would have liked to hear about it before it passed away.

—So, you're saying you'll have no regrets even if you die now?

Nemoto: No, no, please let me keep doing my best (laughs).