I visited the atelier of Toshiyuki Takegahara, the designer of <foot the coacher>, to interview him. He said that he moved from the place where we met four years ago to create an environment where he could fully immerse himself in shoemaking.

A new base. In search of an ideal place to immerse myself in shoemaking.

Takegahara's studio was in a completely different part of town than before. It occupied the entire fourth floor of a building that had been renovated from a former shoe factory.

This place is filled with things that Takegahara likes and things that represent him. The mirror-polished Zero Halliburton made sense because I had heard before that he used to carry around a commercially available stainless steel thermos that he had polished to a mirror finish.

The antique display cases are filled with stylish writing instruments from brands like Faber-Castell, Lamy, and Kaweco. Apparently, the owner has stockpiled enough stationery for a lifetime because they would be inconvenienced if their favorite brands were discontinued.

Amongst top European brands, you'll also find Ito-ya's original "Helvetica Ballpoint Pen."

In his youth, he was devoted to Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's "Worlds End," which gave rise to punk fashion in 1970s London, and "The House of Beauty & Culture," which spearheaded the East London culture scene in the 1980s. These were elements that greatly influenced Takegahara, who moved to the UK in the 1990s and was directly exposed to London's fashion and culture.

He burst onto the scene like a comet with the shoes he created through self-study. The reason he has been able to remain at the forefront of the industry ever since is simply because he has dedicated his entire being to shoes.

"I've never thought about anything but shoes, and I couldn't think about anything else. From morning till night, I'd be thinking about things like, 'Should I shave off 1 millimeter from the instep of that shoe last?' or 'What should the stitch width be?' If I had any free time, I'd want to think about shoes."

Next, we took some time for Takegahara himself to talk about Foot the Coacher's classic and new shoes. As he described each item in the collection, he spoke as if doting on his own child, saying, "...I have a deep attachment to them," and "...that's why I can't help but find them adorable." He even joked, "That's why I don't want to look at them anymore when the exhibition comes around (laughs)," which made it abundantly clear how much love he pours into each pair of shoes. These "shoes you understand once you wear them" are created with such deep affection.

We'll explain the "six classic shoe styles" that have undergone numerous updates.

From the models that are part of Foot the Coacher's regular collection and have been continuously released, Takegahara has selected models that he is particularly attached to. He has provided commentary on each of them, including his own personal thoughts and feelings.

1. HARDER

This simple, open-laced, round-toe rubber-soled model evokes the youth culture that flourished in East London in the 1990s.


"This is a model I've been working on for over 20 years, and it's one I'm personally very attached to. The form is almost perfect, but I've actually modified the shoe last once. I've also updated the details; the side seams have shifted further back than in the original, so it looks slightly different from the early versions."

2. SS SHOES

The amber-colored, translucent "Luft Sole" is an original design by Foot the Coacher.


"We wanted to create shoes that evoke the image of 1980s Britain, so we made them entirely in Japan, from the soles up. The basic round toe is not only comfortable to wear, but it's also an all-purpose model that can be paired with any style."

3. GLOXI ZIP SHOES

These are fake lace-up shoes with the eyelets remaining but the shoelaces removed. "The zippers are from the Italian company Raccagni. Each pair is hand-polished to a mirror finish by skilled craftsmen."

The upper uses four different types of leather, with varying grain patterns on the sides and heel counter. We've paid meticulous attention to detail not only in the design but also in the materials used, such as the flexible Italian Vibram outsole and our original EVA midsole.

4. RIDERS BOOTS

The combination of zippers and snap buttons is inspired by a rider's jacket.


"I love rider jackets, so I've made several pairs of boots incorporating rider jacket motifs. This rubber sole is original; it uses acetate and natural rubber to enhance durability while providing excellent cushioning. I don't usually emphasize the functionality of my shoes, but I believe that those who appreciate it will become repeat customers, and I'm confident that they'll understand once they wear them."

5. MINIMAL SIDEGORE

A mid-cut side-gore boot that seems like it should have existed before, but didn't.


"I wondered why there weren't any mid-cut side-gore boots with a minimalist look that would go well with slim pants, so I added one to the collection. However, I encountered difficulties during the production process. They wouldn't fit without a shaft around the opening. I was also particular about how the side elastic was attached, so I went through many samples, and I was thrilled when I finally completed it exactly as I envisioned."

6. SINGLE EYELET

This plain-toe shoe features a single eyelet on the inner lacing, a truly innovative design. "I was looking at my existing inner-laced shoes when I suddenly thought, 'Wouldn't one eyelet be enough?' and that's how I came up with the idea. I love the minimalist and classic design, but I realized that because of the stress on the shoe, regular shoelaces tend to come undone easily. So I created original shoelaces with a thicker wax coating."

These four brand-new designs embody Takegahara's current state of mind, constantly pushing boundaries.

Takegahara explains the design resources for four items from this season's new collection. Starting with "I wanted to create it because it didn't exist," and including many things learned through "trying it out," the background of each model reflects the designer's "present."

1. Single Strap Shoes

It looks like a single monk strap shoe, but the strap goes around the opening of the shoe, creating a unique design.


"I wanted to create a lightweight dress shoe, so I deliberately cut off the edges of the upper and made it from a single piece of material. The edges of the tongue are rounded, but to cut them with a curve of less than 1 mm in radius, we created a mold from scratch. The holes for the belt are also oval-shaped, not just cut out. I'm very satisfied with the result, considering the hard work I put in by the craftsmen."

2. T-STRAP SHOES

The modified version of the strap shoes shown above is a hybrid of a dress shoe and a sandal, with large cutouts on the sides. "These are dress shoes that can be worn in autumn and winter to show off the color and pattern of your socks. To enhance the hold of the heel cup, it's not made of a single piece, but only half has a crescent-shaped stiffener. Both the lining structure and the lightweight EVA outsole are original designs."

3. MIDDLE-CUT SIDE-GORE

These cropped dress shoes are made from supple yet durable kip leather. "We tried making mid-cut dress shoes, but with an awkward length at the opening, it was difficult to hold the ankle securely, so we had to revise the shoe last many times. By using British Ridgeway soles, we created a British look. The combination of a dress shoe appearance and a grippy sole strikes a good balance between design and function."

4. MIDDLE-CUT SEAMLESS BOOTS

These seamless chukka boots feature no seams at the edges of the wingtip. "By minimizing the seams, we've created a more dressy impression. We've given these chukka boots a more formal finish. The clean, sharp lines give these boots a sharp, refined look. The outsole is made by Ridgeway, a classic British shoemaker. We used goat leather because we needed something soft. The fit is incredibly soft and comfortable."


Related article: 2016 Interview ▶ Toshiyuki Takegahara | A man without a title who is fascinated by shoemaking